Hey y'all!

I got myself a 2011 Ford Ranger FX4.

I'm gonna be buying myself some electric lockers [img=]https://www.ranger-forums.com/rf/forum2/images/smilies/party.gif[/img]

For the rear, ill be getting myself the Auburn Gear Ected Max...
But for the front, can't figure if any company has anything that fit in there, other than the ARB air kit.

You guys have any ideas?

Thanks!

 

Currently 2 options exist for the front diff. The Torsen limited slip and an Aussie locker. (The Aussie locker is out of production and only available used)

I have a Torsen in my front diff (ected in the back) and it has been a fantastic combo.

The ected gives ls traction on the street and I use the "lock" when I need to get out of a sticky situation.

 

Allright, Ill be looking into that very same road. Sound like it would do the trick for the kinda wheelin' we got over here.

 

Yep the set up has not let me down yet!

 

When you see the torsen, your talking about the 4.10s OEM in my truck?

 

Made by the same company as the OEM limited slip (nothing to do with the 4.10's), but he was talking about the front LSD made by Torsen: Dana 35 T-2 (Front) - Detailed item view - JTEKT Torsen Online Shop

 

Thanks man, i've now got 2 choices to concider for up front, either the t-2 or a lock-right.

For the rear, I've already chosen to ge with the Eaton E-locker. I had looked into the Ected Max, but I don't really appreciate the clutch system.

Would you guys advise changing my ratio from 4.10 to 4.56 while I'm already in the diffs?

 

If your sold on the e locker I thought I should point this out just some stuff I read about them on pirate. I was looking into buying one until I read this.

"Eaton's design uses a magnetic drag clutch to operate a ball ramp assembly, which forces the pins/collar into engagement with the side gear. The thing is, it takes approx. 120 degrees of carrier rotation to lock the pins/collar. If you try to thrash on it before it is locked you risk damaging the pins or collar. Likewise, trying to engage it during a wheelspin situation is bad. Also, any time you reverse the carriers rotation (either going from forward to reverse or vice versa) while locked, the locker will unlock and then relock, with the whole cycle taking approx. 240 degrees of carrier rotation. Once again, wheelspin or hammering on it before it is completely relocked can break ****."

 

If there is even a slight chance you want to run bigger tires - I would.

I upgraded to my 4.88's when everything was apart - no point in doing it twice! My 35's & RCD lift went on within two weeks.

 

Ill be going on 33s, thats all

 

If you're gonna run 33's you should get 4.56 gears

 

You could run 4.10's and 33's. it would be the equivalent of what I have. 3.73's and 31's. if you do a lot of highway driving and minimal off road use I'd recommend it.
If you don't care as much about the fuel consumption and want to be back in that optimal powerband, upgrade.

 

First run 4.56s with 33" tires, it makes all the differences in the world.
Drives easier than the 4.10s, fun to drive again.

Put a switchable locker in the rear, ARB or OX, both good Lockers, OX edges out the ARB IMHO.

Leave the front open or ARB, open or unlocked you have a little more control on slippery hill sides, one wheel not spinning will stop any side slide.

 

Your saying to leave my OEM 4.10 up front, as it is open diff in that D-35?

 

What I would like is a switchable locker for both the front and rear but pricey to do that.
With a switchable locker you can leave the front unlocked and have the usual single tire drive in the front and reduce the slipping both on the street and the off camber trail work.

With two wheels spinning you create a situation of slipping and in turn the tires want to go the easiest path and not the one you want to take.

The same applies to the rear, if you are driving in wet conditions the rear will slip faster to the side when taking a turn under power when both wheel are locked together.

Just me but if I couldn't get a switchable locker for I the front I would run and open diff.

You can always add the locker to the front later on.

I hope this makes sense, I tend to get carried away when trying to explain something.

 

You have to change both front and rear to match. He's just saying leave the front differential open not locked/LS. If you do put a traction aid up front you can loose some control.

Put your truck in 4wd and turn the wheels to almost full crank, you should notice its more difficult to move and should hear the drivetrain creaking/popping due to the added binding.
Imagine that with a traction aid.