Drive train clanking issue
#1
Drive train clanking issue
I have an 04 XLT 4x4/auto trans/4.0 that has started making noise when you first start out and it is cold. At times it is like a gear is binding to the extent it seems to be binding up then it will release with a loud bang. sometimes it sounds like it is just a short scrapping sound and then it disappears. Once this issue happens the truck runs fine the rest of the day until you stop and it cools off. what gives....Trans has fluid, but have not checked diffs yet. Also happens sometimes when you turn.
#2
Probably the front hubs are still locked...
I had that happen a couple times in my 4x4 3.0, and figured out that backing up 10 feet in a straight line unlocks them. (that's if you have auto hubs)
Avoid running locked hubs on dry pavement... clunking and banging will happen due to binding u-joints.
I have heard that sometimes the auto hubs act up and lock up on their own, and supposedly is the reason why some went to manual locking hubs.
On a separate but somewhat related note, check your rear driveshaft centering ball (if you have a double cardan like this...)
Mine was sticking real bad, you could feel the shifter shaking as you drove down the road... even after pulling it apart and spraying penetrant and forcing grease into it, it still sticked at certain points in rotation, though not quite as bad. 140 bucks and a week later, she's good as new and the shifter doesn't shake hardly at all driving down the road.
Paint mark the driveshaft to the flanges, remove it, and try turning the joints by hand, if they're stiff at point at all, it is a good idea to replace them. Mine were the factory non greaseable joints, and they had maybe 5-10,000 miles left before they would run dry. The main problem was the centering ball, though. There are threads on u-joints around here in the drivetrain and how-to sections.
I had that happen a couple times in my 4x4 3.0, and figured out that backing up 10 feet in a straight line unlocks them. (that's if you have auto hubs)
Avoid running locked hubs on dry pavement... clunking and banging will happen due to binding u-joints.
I have heard that sometimes the auto hubs act up and lock up on their own, and supposedly is the reason why some went to manual locking hubs.
On a separate but somewhat related note, check your rear driveshaft centering ball (if you have a double cardan like this...)
Mine was sticking real bad, you could feel the shifter shaking as you drove down the road... even after pulling it apart and spraying penetrant and forcing grease into it, it still sticked at certain points in rotation, though not quite as bad. 140 bucks and a week later, she's good as new and the shifter doesn't shake hardly at all driving down the road.
Paint mark the driveshaft to the flanges, remove it, and try turning the joints by hand, if they're stiff at point at all, it is a good idea to replace them. Mine were the factory non greaseable joints, and they had maybe 5-10,000 miles left before they would run dry. The main problem was the centering ball, though. There are threads on u-joints around here in the drivetrain and how-to sections.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post