Clutch
#3
#4
This is pulled from ehow.com just ask if any of this does not make any sence.
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions.Things You'll Need:
Clutch kit (includes clutch disk and pressure plate)
Clutch-alignment tool (if not included in clutch kit)
Screwdriver
Metric wrench set
Jack
It does not say this but disconect your batt before getting started.
Remove the Old Clutch
1.1
Remove the exterior parts, including the floor shifter inside the cab of your Ranger.
2.2
Disconnect the exhaust pipe. Note i did not have to do this on my ranger. I think this is only for the V6.
3.3
Remove the interior parts--the parts under the hood. This includes the starter, which is attached to the transmission bell-housing.
4.4
Disconnect the drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder.
5.5
Use a jack to raise one side of your truck.
6.6
Using a metric socket set, undo the transmission cross-member and bolts, which will allow you to remove the transmission from your Ranger.
7.7
Remove the pressure plate and the worn clutch disk.
8.8
Inspect the clutch flywheel. If the flywheel shows significant amounts of wear or is damaged in any way, you should replace it.
Install the New Clutch
9.1
Install your new clutch disk and pressure plate using a clutch-alignment tool.
10.2
Put the transmission back into your Ranger, and reconnect the cross-member and all related bolts.
11.3
Reconnect all interior parts under the hood, including the starter, drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder. Make sure you bleed the slave cylinder when you reconnect the hose.
12.4
Reconnect the exhaust pipe and re-install the shifter inside the cab.
13.5
Drive your Ranger slowly in a controlled environment, such as a parking lot, to make sure the new clutch is installed properly and is in good working condition.
Take things EASY for 500 miles to allow the new clutch a proper breakin time.
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions.Things You'll Need:
Clutch kit (includes clutch disk and pressure plate)
Clutch-alignment tool (if not included in clutch kit)
Screwdriver
Metric wrench set
Jack
It does not say this but disconect your batt before getting started.
Remove the Old Clutch
1.1
Remove the exterior parts, including the floor shifter inside the cab of your Ranger.
2.2
Disconnect the exhaust pipe. Note i did not have to do this on my ranger. I think this is only for the V6.
3.3
Remove the interior parts--the parts under the hood. This includes the starter, which is attached to the transmission bell-housing.
4.4
Disconnect the drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder.
5.5
Use a jack to raise one side of your truck.
6.6
Using a metric socket set, undo the transmission cross-member and bolts, which will allow you to remove the transmission from your Ranger.
7.7
Remove the pressure plate and the worn clutch disk.
8.8
Inspect the clutch flywheel. If the flywheel shows significant amounts of wear or is damaged in any way, you should replace it.
Install the New Clutch
9.1
Install your new clutch disk and pressure plate using a clutch-alignment tool.
10.2
Put the transmission back into your Ranger, and reconnect the cross-member and all related bolts.
11.3
Reconnect all interior parts under the hood, including the starter, drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder. Make sure you bleed the slave cylinder when you reconnect the hose.
12.4
Reconnect the exhaust pipe and re-install the shifter inside the cab.
13.5
Drive your Ranger slowly in a controlled environment, such as a parking lot, to make sure the new clutch is installed properly and is in good working condition.
Take things EASY for 500 miles to allow the new clutch a proper breakin time.
#8
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clutches are not adjustable PER SAY!! if you have a SELF adjusting clutch then yes....also depends on difficulty if you have a fork and bearing set up or a hydraulic clutch...look under there towards front of tranny on drivers side and see if you have two hard lines goin into the side of tranny through a big hole then its hydraulic.....there not really much harder to do its just gettin them bled out properly that can be the hard part....if it is hydraulic theres a HOW TO vid on youtube....
#10
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well its kinda like a headlight bulb they should last for a few yrs but when one burns out you might as well replace both...same as this when you replace clutch you might as well have flywheel turned and replace the rear main seal while its all out and the slave cylinder...it would suck if a few mnths after the rear main started leaking or slave or master quit on ya...so might as well replace it all while its out and easily accesable!!
#11
clutches are not adjustable PER SAY!! if you have a SELF adjusting clutch then yes....also depends on difficulty if you have a fork and bearing set up or a hydraulic clutch...look under there towards front of tranny on drivers side and see if you have two hard lines goin into the side of tranny through a big hole then its hydraulic.....there not really much harder to do its just gettin them bled out properly that can be the hard part....if it is hydraulic theres a HOW TO vid on youtube....
Good one i forgot about that! Also while the system is apart change the clutch fluid!
#12
I have a '96 ranger that my dad bought brand new in '96. In '98 I learned to drive on it. That clutch lasted until 70k miles. My dad later gave it to me and I still have it with 190k on the clock. That 2nd clutch still works great. So you should be able to get well over 100k per clutch if driven properly.
#13
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