That's up to you. They will leak a little if you reuse them becaue you break the seal. For me, it's not that big a deal. It's a VERY small leak, and I keep up things like tranny fluid, fluid flushes, etc so it's not the tranny will be low on fluid.

I have no idea what size they are, but they are "special" nuts. If I remember correctly, they're tapered with a type of gasket to prevent leakeage.

 

ok bringing this back again from the dead. For the 4r44e which is what I have in my 99 4x with a 3.0,

To adjust the two bands. You loosen the locknuts, and torque the two studs down to 120inlbs. Then you back it off 2 turns (for a 99) and tighten the lock nuts back down..to 35-45inlbs. Do you need to disconnect the battery to clear the computer and reset everything?

 

I'm going to say only if your o/d light is flashing. I don't think your computer needs to relearn when to shift.

 

ok no flashing light....so I guess I'll give it a shot.

 

Bringing this back from the dead.... I just got a different transmission and I think this adjustment needs done to it. Are the special lock nuts a dealer only part? Also anything I should know before trying this? I've read the thread a few times now.

 

I just adjusted mine again.

You need a good torque wrench
3/8" 12 point socket and a 3/4" wrench.

I adjusted mine without getting new lock nuts.

 

I don't have a good torque wrench, but Justin does. I'll beg him to help me. lol. But I'm hoping it fixes the 1-2 delay I have. Then after Dunes time, the shift kit goes in! Yay!

 

or set the parking brake


I did this yesterday, seemed to have helped the 2-3 flare some in my 96. I still get a little if I'm accelerating hard but if I'm routine about it, it is really smooth now.

I unhooked the linkage from the shift lever and slid it out of the bracket. I also too off the shift lever and the shift position switch in order to get better access to the one adjuster. If you take that switch off, the trick is when it's all back together, loosen the two bolts that hold it on so there is some play, put the car in reverse and then rotate the switch a little until the back up lights come on and then tighten the two bolts to hold it in that position.

Thanks for this thread, and thanks to the guy who decided to put the band adjustments on the outside of the tranny.

 

Lol I forgot about this completely I still need to do this after 2 years. Seems like a quick job might do it this week.

 

subscribed!

 

Did the adjustment just like the thread says and the 2 to 3 shift flare went away but now a couple of months later it has seemed to come back and it especially does it when the truck is hot. Can I do the adjustment again and only back them off like 1 1/2 turns and it will tighten it up or will this do damage to the trans?

 

Did you ever do it? How did it hold up. I have a '94 4.0 V6 ranger automatic of course. And from 2-3 shortly it has a good jerk. I'm not sure how hardit will be considering all of the rangers concernedin this thread are a lot newer than mine. Any advice or concerns.

 

I talked to a transmission guy i know and he said to adjust the vacuum modulater. I guess there is a little adjustment screw and you can back this out 1 1/2 turns and it will make it shift softer and turning the screww in will make it shift firmer. We also put some stuff in the tranny that comes in a white bottle that we got at Walmart and it like tranny fluid but it really thick. So far the trans seems to be shifting great and not slipping.

 

I would do the band adjustment, change fluid and filter if it needs it, the adjustment screw is in the vacuum modulater. My sons Ranger is a '88 so its an old one. After we did all this it seems to be running great.

 

When adjusting the bands and it talks about backing the stud off 2 full turns after initial torque, does that mean, turn it completely 360 degrees backwards twice? I know its kinda a dumb question, but i just want to make sure i do it properly.

 

Ya. 2 full turns 360 degrees each turn.

 

thanx very much desert!! dont want to mess this up more then i have to, being a transmission rookie! lol

 

Just take your time and do it exactly the way the thread tells ya. Did my sons back in January and the slipping is all gone.

 

yeah i will deff b taking my time because im doing the valve body/ seperator plate as well. part got here today and i opened it to find that it had been dropped (thanks USPS) and the seperator plate got all bent in the corner and bonded gasket was torn there as well. now have to wait another week for part to be exchanged, yay! lol!

 

I realize this is a very old thread but my dads 2000 ranger ( 14-2.5 ) auto trans is slipping slightly then bumping into gear when shifting from 2-3 & 3 - OD . It gets progressively worse as it warms up - after driving 4+ miles or so. Just to be clear back the lock nut off then torque the band to 10 ft lbs (120 in lbs ) then back it off two full turns and lock it down for both bands , Correct ? Thanks all .

 

Ive read somewhere that the 5r55e has 3 bands, elsewhere, they say only 2. Anyone have any info on this?!

 

Just curious... I've done this band adjustment a while ago and just did it again after a valve body upgrade kit and changing out a bad shift solenoid... Anyhow, my original intention to upgrade the VB was based on an extremely hesitant transition from park to drive... turned out that the valve body had a gasket blowout and so the upgrade / repair really changed the performance... BUT ,the shift hesitation from Park to Drive still persists ... so, I thought maybe I'll try tightening up the bands again... nothing changed -
My question is... is it possible that 1-1/2 turns back instead of 2 on the intermediate band would tighten up my shifting problem or not?

 

Just wondering after going to the other linked thread, where are the bands located? IE: You have to remove the transmission pan right?

I am about to change the filter and do a gentle flush for transfluid but wanted to make sure.

I am having OD engage then disengage depending on how much gas I'm adding or driving habbits... I have almost 30k miles on the fluid so I know it's time to change.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Old thread but gotta wake it up..I already adjusted the front band (closest to bell housing/front of trans) but having a hell of a time trying to get to the rear one because I can't get the damn shifter arm off..Whats the easiest way to adjust the back band?

Thanks in advance fellas ..

 

Late response, but in case anybody else finds this and wants the answer...
First release the shift cable from the arm (you can pop it off by hand or lever it off with a screwdriver).
Then put a wrench on the shifter arm bolt. It will probably shift first as you try to turn it, but once the shifter is all the way at the counter clockwise stop position it can't go further and if you continue to turn the wrench it will release the nut from the shifter arm.
Once the nut is off, you can unplug the wiring from the range sensor and slowly work it off the pivot.

When reinstalling, be sure the mark on the wheel at the center of the range sensor is aligned with the mark on the sensor body.