My rear drum brakes are warped and I need to replace them. Does anybody have any good guides for replacing them? Also, where should I lift the rear of my truck? Is the rear differential a good spot? I don't want to put it on my axle so that seems like the only good place.

 

The center of the diff is the weakest point of the rear end, but it is about the only place to lift the truck to so you can set the axle on a jack stand.

Best advice I can give for the rear drums is to make sure you back off the adjuster so you can get the drums off easily, you will find the adjuster just about stripped out so it will be a pain. Also buy pads, hardware kit, and adjuster for both sides. Make sure to lube the adjuster well they tend to corrode fast.

 

My pads are fine, I just need to replace the drums. So I don't have to still do all that stuff?

 

What works best to get the drums off is to use a big brass hammer and beat the hell of out the center area of the drum like in between the threads for the wheels. Easiest way to get them off.

If your just doing drums and not pads, you got nothing to worry about. You will probably have to turn the adjusters in though so that the drums will slide on.

 

If you are going to take the time to get the drums off plan on replacing everything.

With over 200k I'm surprised you haven't dealt with this yet. I seem to get about 60k on a set of shoes.

 

Agreed!!

 

if your SHOES are fine after this mileage then they havent been working properly.

with drum cap off, flip key to 'on' position, have bud press pedal and see if the rear piston even pushes the shoes out, if so then you need to adjust the star bolt.

although, ive been running just the front discs and ignoring the back drums for 2 years and dont have any issues. just buy awesome rotors, and pads and calipers and bleed the lines good, I can stop very very quickly at half pressure

 

To jack it up, just put your jack and stands under the frame, you will be fine and don't forget to block both front wheels. By the way, how much are the new drums going to be if you don't mind me asking?

 

Recipe for disaster.
DO NOT push the brake pedal with the drums off.You'll push the cups out of the wheel cylinder and have brake fluid all over.
And just because someone else says to not bother repairing the rear brakes is OK doesn't mean it's the right way.

 

Agreed.
If you've already got the drum off, just take a visual inspection. if your shoes look worn, replace them.
Easiet way is to beat the drum off, usually. hammer either side until it starts moving, then wiggle it off.

For the record, on every brake job i've done, if i'm hammering drums/rotors off, odds are you need new shoes/pads anyways.

 

I take my Ranger to a Ford Dealership and I was having some shaking in my steering wheel. They took a look and found (and showed me) that the rear driver brake drum was warped. He told me that the pads and everything is fine. I told him I wanted replace them myself and he told me all I need to do is replace both drums and that is it.

I am going to buy the drums from Advanced Auto Parts, I don't remember the exact price but they are between $80 and $60 per drum.

One other thing I bought my Ranger with 203K miles on it, it was well maintained by a dealership so this is why I have never had to deal with my drums.

 

Change the shoes anyway.
They are already worn to the dimensions of the old drums so they will not contact the new drums properly.
They could also be contaminated and score the new drums.

When it comes to brakes , don't do anything half way.

 

If there is enough meat lft in the drums they can be turned just like discs for a couple of bucks. I still have the stock drums on my truck at 165k They have been turned once because of warping.

IF the rears are warped causing pulsing pressure in the system i would turn or replace the fronts and new pads. Pads and shoes are cheap, well depending on what you choose. There limited options for the rear and 30 bucks will be the mark. You will also need a 7 dollar hardware kit and another 5 bucks a side for adjuster kits. Why half *** brake job when you can do it right for another 50.

 

I would also recommend doing the shoes, it will only take 30minutes to an hr more per side to get it done. Just make sure you lay out how you took everything apart, and reassemble it in the proper order with new parts. Take note of how the springs are clipped in as well.

 

You guys are making a good point, so I would like to replace all of it. But does anybody have a guide on how to replace it all?

 

I know Autozone supplies instructions on their website based on your vehicle, so try that. It is really simple, and most drum brakes are very similar in design so it wouldn't be much different from other vehicles.

 

If you're not used to changing them ALWAYS change one side at a time. This way if you get stuck on how something goes , the opposite side is a mirror image to go by.

 

I finally got around to doing this. Bought new everything today and took off the first Drum and ran out of day light so I called it quits for the night. I didn't buy a spring tool tonight because they guy said it should be easy enough without it. I am going to go get a spring tool in the morning because it was hard to get the springs off, another reason why I stopped for the night.

The guy also said no parts of it need lube, after watching videos I found that most people pull lube on the six areas where the Shoes touch the back wall. What kind of lube should I use? Same as for the clips on the Front Rotor brake pads? I didn't buy new adjusters because I didn't think about it should I and if I do what kind of Lube should I use to make sure it is lubed up well.

 

The hi temp disc stuff will be fine.


If you buy a hardware kit i just cut the old crap off, normally its rusted to the point of failure anyway. Got to love the salt belt.

I use a large strong flathead screw driver to reinstall springs. Instead of the tools.

I know sears stocks them not sure if the parts stores do.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2

 

Okay, I will get some tomorrow at the store. I know that my store has them but I didn't buy it because he told me I didn't have to. lol

 

Disk brakes sounding like a good Idea yet?

 

Dana 60 sounds better

 

Absolutely lube the points where it contacts the backing plate. Since I started doing it, I've had WAY better luck with the parking brake working and springs not breaking. Synthetic brake lube works for me, got a big can of it at NAPA.

 

I just got the same stuff I put on the clips on my front brakes.

 

Still having problems even using the tool, any pointers? I just can't get the springs on...