Good day,
2008 Ford Ranger sport 4x4, 142km.
I called the "transfer case output shaft seal".
I had a super fun time removing the 4, 12point 12mm bolts securing the u-joint strap to the rear transfer case. I think the boys in manufacturing like their locktite.

Anyroad, I can't seem to budge the shaft. I have tried going backwards, and using a brass drift to encourage the strap to dislodge, and a 2x4 and a bfh to nudge it. Nothing.

When I have had to remove a driveshaft from a Kenworth or freightliner, it never had an issue popping off.

Any thoughts?

 

I got a prybar between the flange and the t-case housing. The sip yoke on the driveshaft will rust onto the trans output shaft and sort of weld to it.

 

Thanks. I know, I'm chicken.
Another thought.... For saying it's being stubborn, I am debating on removing the end attaching to the rear diff. My rear pinion seal is sweating, and I know these u-joints are now 14 years old. I have a neighbor with a pneumatic press, and I was quoted $7.50 a joint plus shipping. I don't know what the seal is worth.
I don't want to drag this out further and further down a rabbit hole, but while I'm here I might as well.

What do you think?

 

I'd do the u joints for sure. Spring for Spicer joints if you can, them good.

If you are doing the u joints, pull those 4 12 point 12's out and you can get a slide hammer on the driveshaft yoke as well.

The output seal is just a normal seal, you'll see it when you get the yoke off. Be careful hammering on it, the t-case output shaft bearing is retained by a lip in the rear t-case housing casting. It's thin aluminium and can get smashed out, ask me how I know.

 

Thanks.
I have a severe allergic reaction to both doing things twice and spending money needlessly. My thoughts were that anything that spins for 14 years is overdue for motion sickness and bound to puke it's guts out. Especially if you can't grease it.

What was the outcome of your thin lip on the casing? Is that something a speedy sleeve would fix?

 

That bearing there is held in by a snap ring. The previous owner had hit a high rock with the driveshaft, bottoming out. It forced the driveshaft into the transfer case, and smashed this bearing out. That whole aluminium ring was gone, got ground into paste by the transfer case. The most amazing thing was, it still works. Darn things are tough and weak at the same time.

*Edit* my bad, this is the front half of the transfer case, but same idea with the back half. Here we go, red arrows show the parts that went away.

 

You don't remember what size socket you used to remove the nut do you? I'm coming up with 1 3/16". 1 1/8 is too snug, and 1 1/4 is too sloppy.

 

I believe it was a 30 mm, and all I had was a 32 and made it work but my memory is a bit fuzzy. This might be useful,



Gotta use a new nut. Use the old nut as the "special tool" to drive the yoke back on the output shaft, then take it off and put the new nut on and torque to 162.

 

Whoops, double post, my bad.

 

And it needs to be done to replace that seal?

I'm going to drop the rear end of the drive shaft to make access a bit easier. And, apparently, try to find a 30mm socket. Ugh. Thank you again!

 

Just wondering if the darn parts cooperate (side smack) or if 'separation' is needed.

 

Kind of related I suppose.....

You could do both; at least from my point of view. What I did was take a rubber mallet and smack the sides once or twice. I stuck my littlest prybar inbetween the u-joint flange and the carrier flange and got a little gap going. then I got a 2' prybar and put it inbetween the u-joint and the drive shaft. Told "Red" I loved her and pulled towards me.

Couldn't tell you what made the difference. Probably the loving words.

 

Now to steer the thread back to me..... LoL

I've got the t-case output shaft off the drive shaft (I know this isn't correct terminology).

The drive shaft is hanging out, resting on the cross member. It's still connected to the rear differential.

I'm really trying hard to not touch the rear end until it's more around the April/May area. I doubt there is enough room to do what I need done with the drive shaft where it is.

Right now, all four tires are on the ground. If I lift the rear up a bit, would that give me sufficient angle to have the driveshaft pointing downwards a bit? (Conversely, lift the front. Probably safer)

I ask because It's not that I'm lazy, it's because it's -35c outside. If I get all geared up to freeze, I'd like to have a game plan, if not a short game plan.

 

 

On ford's, any driveshaft mating surface that is "flat" and is held by bolts will have a centering ring, much like a hubcentric wheel.

Like previously stated, you need to get a pry bar in there and just work it under one of the edges. The area on the edge of the yoke (where the bolts go) and the flange is a great place to get a screwdriver or thin wedge in as the flange is chamfered in this area and will facilitate an easier time getting something in there to "squeeze" it. Just work on opposite corners if at all possible. Once the yoke has started to come apart from the flange, it should pop out with relative ease.

 

Good evening.... A small (lol) update... I have replaced the rear pinion seal on the rear diff. I counted the threads and nut face marks to avoid measuring the end play of that bearing with a dial indicator.

The u-joints are acceptable in my opinion.

The rear output shaft of the transfer case flange absolutely will not budge. I haven't seen a retaining ring on the shaft anywhere. I am hesitant to bang on it with any excessive force, because I know there are bearings sitting on that shaft.

Has anyone used a tool or jaw puller of some sort to seperate this? I already have the nut off. Thank the good Lord for that.

 

If you're talking about the t-case rear output flange, then yes a 2 or 3-jaw puller will work fine. Just needs to be wide enough for that flange.

 

Ok kids,

Just want to say thanks.

Goes in and out of 4H+4L and whatnot. No clunking, leaks, or unneeded stress/anxiety.

Lessons learned:

Invest in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" torque wrenches.
The sockets I used were 27mm on the rear diff, and 30mm on the transfer case output shaft fastener.
Adjustable jack stands would have been a plus.
I bought a 35,000BTU propane heater for the garage that of course, arrived after the -40c cold snap.
Pre-warm your fluids before trying to use that crappy fluid transfer hose you cheaped out on buying. (And clean said tool often).
Although you "can" reuse the drive shaft flange bolts, (the 12 point-12mm ******), go buy 8 new ones. Just do it.
Budget constraints forced me to skip the u-joints. I know I'm gonna have to go back and replace, but not until it's warmer. Better to have just done them and be done with the whole thing in one go.

Thank you again!

 

Thanks for the tool info.
When U-joint time comes consider a shaft shop.
They can spin balance the shaft. It creates a rock solid ride.