Ok so at 84K my clutch is toast.

So here are my questions...

What special tools will I need to get, can you rent them?

What else should I replace in there? I was told teh clutch kit comes with a new slave cylinder.
- should I resurface or replcae teh flywheel?
- get a new master cylinder?

What is the general procedure? or what do I need to know?

Time estimates for guys who have doen it befoe(helping me) and myself, pretty good with tools?

 

i had mine done but i would recommend you get the flywheel resurfaced... and if the slave does not come in the kit then get slave replaced while the tranny is out

 

yeah I figured as much...any other advice people?

 

After all the talk of how cheap the stock clutch is I was thinking about getting a better clutch when mine is due.

 

You won't need any special tools, if you get the LUK kit it comes with the tool to align the clutch. Also don't forget to get the line bled.

 

where can I find the LUK kit?

Advanced auto, NAPA??

 

hey so a guy that is going to help me said that I need a tool for the slave cylinder?? he said somethign about pushing two pins/springs in to get it off?

Y'all know what he is talking about?

 

Ok so I am going to order teh parts tomorrow. I found Advanced Auto to be cheaper than most on teh clutch kit at $200

BUT they dont have a slave cylinder, so woudl it be a bad idea to buy my slave cylinder adn clutch kit at 2 different place? i know they will be fo rthe same truck but some aftermarket parts are strange...

 

Well got the clutch in about an hour ago, sorry I didnt take a photo collection, but I can do a write up soon. Everythign went well, wow I cant beleive how quickkly it engages now.

 

Is it possible to get a more better performing one than the OEM clutch if so where to buy? b/c lately mines slipping when i accelorate until 3rd gear my dad said if there was a better clutch that i might hurt the transmission b/c it is stock so im not sure on what to do

 

I looked around and couldnt find one, so I just got the LUK replacement one from dialaclutch.com $262 shipped included all parts, even teh slave cylinder.

Upon pulling the tranny we realized taht my slave cylinder was teh true culprit, clutch adn flywheel were fine, little worn, but fine. i replaced it all anyways, figured why not.

 

What Luck! Joined the site today because I have a 96 2x2 that needs a clutch. Thought I could get some advice here and found this post right away. Is there anything more you guys can share on this job? When you get a clutch kit, like at NAPA, would it contain everything needed? Does the Ranger set-up have a typical throw-out bearing that can be replaced like others? I think that is my actual problem because when you push in the clutch you hear a rattling/screaching sound until you release the clutch, then this morning I couldn't engage the gears after backing out of the driveway. Thanks for any help you can share.

 

if you cant engage gears its the slave thats gone bad... i think the throwout bearing is similar to ones from other vehicles... oh and welcome to R-F

 

Sounds very much like the problems I've had. I had a squeal/screach when working the clutch. It was very subtle and most obvious when slipping the clutch, for example when starting in 2nd or in 1st on a hill.

My truck is relatively new, so I had it replaced under warranty by my stealer. I'm fairly mechanically ignorant and just had them do all the work. They claimed it was actually the trowout bearing that was the problem. It seems there was a known issue, a TSB from Ford, and a new, redesigned part. I supposedly have the new part, but it still squeals every now and then, although not nearly as badly. I'm told this is relatively normal. I've heard of other LII owners going through 2-3 clutches and bearings while still under their 36k mile warranty..

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I went ahead and bought the LUK kit off of Ebay. Looked like a complete kit w/slave cyl and both bearings for a very reasonable price. The truck ust turned over 150k so I did good on service life I guess. I have a '95 4X4 also with 90,000 and it still sounds and shifts okay. Except for the transfer case on the 95, I guess I will cut my teeth on the 4X2, and I will know what I am doing when the time comes on the 4X4.

Thanks again

 

My truck is in the shop now, I'm having a new plate, flywheel and throwout bearing put in since the tranny is being dropped anyway. Probably don't strictly NEED them, but it was a good opportunity to have it done without paying full labor (the tranny tech is a friend, I'm just going to owe him some favors for putting in the new clutch parts while its out.)

 

you can buy the slave cylinder separate for $70 more or less. I jsut went ahead and bought the whole kit from LUK which included the slave. I figured I might as well redo the tranny while it was down.

the pilot bearing is a pain. jsut get a big flat head screw driver adn bust the bearings and then pry the race out.

 

why is the truck in the shop Brian? everything okay with it?

 

Yeah, everythings fine, it was just my last chance to have warranty work done on it, so I had the tranny rebuilt. It has popped out of 1st gear a few times, so it was enough of a complaint that everyone involved was satisfied that it wasn't warranty fraud. I also really wanted a chance to get the tranny apart and see if the Hurst has done any apparant damage to it. I inspected the internals myself this morning, all the gears look good, so its just getting new brass and bearings, and of course the clutch job. My Hurst is still occasionally blowing small amounts of tranny fluid out the top (onto the top of the tranny, not into the cabin) but it hasn't done any physical damage to the transmission in 30K+ miles. Now my clutch on the other hand.. that has been subjected to quite a few 4,000rpm launches at the dragstrip. I think this one I'll be more kind to.

Mikey should have the tranny back together by now (he was cleaning out the case 1.5 hours ago) and should have it back in by 5pm for me to pick up. The V6 Escape they loaned me is nice enough, but def. not my cup of tea. Kara likes it, though.

 

there are no special tools required to do the job you may want to consider renting a transmission jack, you should most definitely resurface your flywheel and the fact that your new clutch comes with a new slave cylinder is a good thing because i can garuentee that it was next to go, no new master cylinder required

 

I know somebody on here and/or on Gen-edge has a better clutch. I hope I don't need one for a very long time, but when I do if the difference in price is not to bad I think I am going to put something stronger in.

 

I am changing my clutch this weekend and noticed that the slave cylinder appears to have a very similiar connection to a Ford fuel line. How is this dis-connected and re-connected to the new slave cylinder if no special tool is required??

 

it is a little white plastic piece that fits around the line. it slides along the line, you cna use 2 flat head screw drivers to push teh piece (in i bleieve) and then give teh line atug and it will come off.

 

Heh, my clutch went out on me a couple nights ago and my Dad was supposed to get it in the shop tonight or in the morning. So i'm driving a 2001 Mazda 626 now... I miss my truck.

 

Thanks very much for the reply.....I had to leave work early yesterday and didn't get the tip from you, but a call to my friendly local Ford dealer gave me the same info. Push it in real hard with two pocket srewdrivers to depress the internal stainless steel lock, and it will pull out. It worked.

Now I have to saw off the exhaust to get the bellhousing past the x-over and the firewall. No biggie, after 150,000 miles its due for a new exhaust anyway.