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I have replaced the clutch and pilot bearing in my 1997 Ford Ranger with a 2.3 liter 5 speed overdrive manual transmission. The problem is intermittently the clutch pedal does not fully depress and bottoms out hard and short and the clutch lightly engages. If I slightly push the clutch pedal in a couple of times the clutch engages sometimes squealing the rear wheels. Most of the time I have no problems with the clutch and it depresses fully with no slipping on engagement. Might the slave cylinder or the throw out bearing be too dry on the sleeve and slowly returning to suddenly engaging? This seems to occur in heavy stop and go traffic with much use on the clutch.
I know this is an old post with no replies but I'm having a similar problem (but with original clutch, plate & bearing.) It does seem to be heat related. After a cool-down period, the thing goes back to working again. Only 82,000 original miles.
It's entirely possible that if it is the OEM slave that it is beginning to balloon out.
When my OEM slave failed, the throw out bearing was the first to go. It got hot, and got so warm that it caused the slave to melt, leaving me stranded hours from home. If you have whirring or otherwise abnormal noises that go away with the pedal depressed, this may be the culprit. The OEM slave is plastic, and can change shape over time due to thermal wear.
THANKS Turismolover22! Sounds reasonable. Appreciate your advice. This has happened twice to me in the past year or so. Each time, after sitting overnight, the thing works fine, just like nothing is wrong. (The car came to me from the northern states and is rusty underneath. I looked inside the clutch housing and lots of rust is visible. Don't know if rust and age could be a cause, or not.) I think my best best is to bite the bullet and have everything replaced. Around here that's about $1,200 to $1400.
THANKS Turismolover22! Sounds reasonable. Appreciate your advice. This has happened twice to me in the past year or so. Each time, after sitting overnight, the thing works fine, just like nothing is wrong. (The car came to me from the northern states and is rusty underneath. I looked inside the clutch housing and lots of rust is visible. Don't know if rust and age could be a cause, or not.) I think my best best is to bite the bullet and have everything replaced. Around here that's about $1,200 to $1400.
Rust could also be a contributing factor. If you have enough rust on the input shaft, or lodged in the splines, that can also cause issues.
It's a shame you're so far away, I would do the work for far less $ than that! I've had mine apart many times, and am very familiar with the ranger clutch system
THANKS again Turismolover22! In my younger days I'd have already jumped in. I don't have the tools I used to have. It looks fairly straight forward but like some bolts might be very difficult to get to. I have an excellent mechanic in mind, but just need to hit the lottery! Hahaha! I'll do a follow-up post if/when I have the work done. Thanks again!
OK, it happened again. I've been "hoping" the issue would go away but guess I'm out of luck. Again, a hot day (90's.) Distinct change in the way the clutch mechanism feels. Becomes harder to depress the pedal. Then, when I release it, the clutch will only partially engage. After getting towed home (2 hours later and a cool-off period) the mechanism started working normally again. Still working fine since.
OK, it happened again. I've been "hoping" the issue would go away but guess I'm out of luck. Again, a hot day (90's.) Distinct change in the way the clutch mechanism feels. Becomes harder to depress the pedal. Then, when I release it, the clutch will only partially engage. After getting towed home (2 hours later and a cool-off period) the mechanism started working normally again. Still working fine since.
Someone else mentioned that their clutch line was right by exhaust components (V6 engines) and thus would get so hot it would boil the brake fluid and cause it to lock up, or introduce bubbles in the line that cause similar issues.
Check to make sure that it isnt that. The OEM line should have an aluminum/metal sheath on it, that looks a lot like ribbed wire loom. If that is not present, or other heat shielding has been lost, this may be the direction to investigate as a possibility//
Thanks Turismolover22. Interesting ideas. Mine is a four cylinder, so I guess this would be NA to my situation. BUT, I'll check out your list, for sure! Stay tuned.
Nice try Turismolover22, but no see-gar. THANKS for the effort. Line runs well clear of all exhaust runs. The mystery remains. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and just get the clutch works changed out. I'll post the results if I go that route.
The story continues. Truck in shop for several weeks. Mechanic has been "under the weather." Also, he seems to be having trouble bleeding the hydraulic clutch. I'm hoping I picked the right shop, but beginning to wonder. Staaay tuned!
Clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, slave cylinder, master all replaced. Mechanic says he saw nothing unusual. (A lot of rust - it having lived the first part of its life in the north.) I wish I had something more to add. A complete mystery.
Last edited by rumblingrambler; Nov 17, 2022 at 09:16 AM.