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Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 04-14-2012
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Clutch Inspection - Works but not engaging

2000 Ford Ranger 4x4, 3.0 flex

Driving home, within the span of a few minutes, shifting starts acting erratic, not wanting to let go of a gear, Then when in neutral, not engaging.

Then no shifting whatsover, pedal pressure is fine. No obvious noises/vibrations....just change in behavior of shifter.

I get it home with sync & swim method.

Bleeding the system flushes gunk from bleeder, removed master cylinder and rotated up to allow bubble out....

no leaks, but loads of black gunk (like a paste), white gunk, like snot, and lots of bubbles. Bled and flushed til runs clear and no bubbles.

Now -

When friend presses pedal, I'm under viewing the inspection hole.

The blue sleeve actuates, indicating the master/slave system working fine...

or is it?

But when engine running, no gear engagement is possible.



The blue sleeve moves about 3/4" of an inch, and with about 1/4" between it and the spring fingers (when pedal fully depressed).

Is it moving far enough?

Is all this working fine, and I need a new clutch?

Please Help.

Last edited by threecaster; 04-14-2012 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 04-15-2012
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According to this:

I may still have air in the line. Apparently tis a bitch to get out....

The slave cylinder is actuating, but maybe not far enough...

Anyone else had this problem?

I may try this removal & bench bleeding procedure as shown above...
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Old 04-15-2012
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I'd say keep bleeding it. Sounds like air to me.
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Old 04-15-2012
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Yes, several others I have spoke to say it is a real bitch to get the air out, and my symptoms are apparently in accordance with air in the line.

I am attempting to perform the procedure as per the video...

JFK on a popsicle stick....this #@#^%$ "quick" connect has eat about 2.5 hrs of my day.

The thing is serviceable, all the goodies move around (indicating not seized) but GARRRGH! Can't get the damn thing off....

I've pushed the little white ring up in as far as it will go (even got the $6 POS tool and fat lot of good it does) all around the connector, turning it around to push it all around evenly....

whew!

I've give up on it for now, my buddy is looking at it...
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Old 04-15-2012
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Those videos are by far the best I have seen. There are a few different ones that discuss the Ranger clutch system...
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Old 04-15-2012
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OK!

If you want the damn quick connect off, here's how I did it:

Cut me a piece of 1/2" metal conduit pipe about 2" long. Located the seam and cut a slot the length of the little pipe.

Filed down all my edges.

Used a grinder and gently reduced the thickness of the metal by about 1/2, for the first 3/4" of one end.

This is now an extraction tool.

On the connector: Filed off the lip of the center disconnect.

Removed the gud-fer-nuthin plastic ring

With pliers I opened up the pipe and slipped it over the hose, then closed it up around the center disconnect.

Using my 8oz hammer I GENTLY tapped my extraction tool into the assembly, until I felt slight resistance. I also noted to myself while I did this, if I ufcked up my slave cylinder disconnect, I'd have to drop the transmission (and transfer case and driveshafts and....)

Then I pulled firmly on the hose and PRAISE BE!

I gut the sumbitch out!

:BIGGRIN:

Now it's hung up like a strung rat, with a vibrating cellphone running on it...-kinky-
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Old 04-15-2012
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OK...

Well...I feel that I have been thorough enough to fully eliminate the possibility of air in the Hydraulic System.

Reinstalled, and....

It BARELY works.

She still won't let me shift much. Not Driveable. Maybe could move it around the yard if I wanna.



We're sitting here this evening discussing what next. And the words Pilot Bearing floated across the room. This rings a bell with me, as for a long time there has been (what I now know as) a "flat spot" you could feel in the gear shift.

All this time I thought I had a cylinder going bad!

(Is this right? It changed with the speed of the engine, and you only noticed it under load.)

-------

Allright, the pilot bearing is likely in need of change...but that would not cause my clutch to drag.

I may try changing the master cylinder in the morning, otherwise I may just tear into it, depending on the weather...
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Old 04-16-2012
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Just did the little measurement on the actuator as shown here:

I've got the full 5/16" travel.


still investigating...

Last edited by threecaster; 04-16-2012 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 04-16-2012
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Now I'm confused...:wtf:

I just went and tested it...and the sumbitch shifts. Drove it around the yard, drove it up the road a little. Still a little clunky, but it's cold out.

It is too good to be true?

Will it quit when it gets hot?

May wait till rush hour is passed and leadfoots are out of the road, and go do a test.

For answers to these pressing questions (ha!) stay tuned to same bat time, same bat channel.
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Old 04-17-2012
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Your slave cylinder is probably shot. I had symptoms like that on my old '97. Would shift great cold and you had to slam gears once the truck warmed up.
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