Clutch Problem - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 02-20-2005
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Clutch Problem

So me and my dad were working on my Ranger yesterday, flushing the brake fluid, changing brakes, etc... We decided to flush the clutch fluid while we were at it since the fluid had changed to a nasty gray color... Anyways, the clutch worked fine prior to us flushing the fluid. Now, the clutch engages/disengages about 1/4" from the floor? We bled the system multiple times to ensure all the air was out.

My question is, do you think it is possible all of the air was not removed from the slave cylinder? If not, how can I remove the air since bleeding the system doesn't seem to be working?

Also, can anyone tell me why the old fluid contained the dark gray sediment in it? I asked my dad and he wasn't really sure. I figure someone here knows.

It's a 4x4 4.0L stock
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Old 02-21-2005
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how is this a bad thing? are you saying you dont have to push the clutch in all the way to shift? all clutches ive driven are like that.

to get all the air out you need a type of vacuum. people who work with radiators use one so im sure theres a similar device for a clutch.
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Old 02-21-2005
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not sure if this will work for u but try gravity bleeding it. crack the bleeder screw 1/4 turn, leave the cap off the master cylinder and let if self bleed keeping an eye on the fluid level. works great for brakes, not sure about a clutch.

also is it outta adjsutment? i know some fords self adjust but u need to cycle the clutch pedal like 150,000 times before it works...just a few suggestions as im not into them...im more of an auto guy =-D
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Old 02-21-2005
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No, prior to us flushing the fluid, the clutch engaged/disengaged about 1/2" after you pushed it in... now you have to push it all the way to the floor and it's still dragging on the pressure plate, you can feel it. It's also EXTREMELY hard to get into gear as well.

As for gravity bleeding it, we did that. We also tried the recommended procedure. Neither seems to have worked. Didn't know about the self adjuster though... just don't think the clutch would change so drastically if it were something such as a self adjuster.
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  #5  
Old 02-21-2005
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how firm is the clutch? does it feel the same as it did before or more loose?
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  #6  
Old 02-21-2005
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I wish my truck didn't have a Clutch....
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2005
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technically all trucks have clutches...
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Old 02-21-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwill41
I wish my truck didn't have a Clutch....
i wish mine was manual... wanna trade?
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2005
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^^^Na.. One day you are going to wish you didn't get the manual...

The only way that I got the manual because my truck is four wheel drive

and I love going muddin but now I hate it (look in sig)....
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
technically all trucks have clutches...
Oh I wasn't thinkin at the time I reply to this post...
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Old 02-21-2005
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  #12  
Old 02-21-2005
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It's way more loose. It feels like a 'no pedal' until the very bottom of the travel on it, and then you can feel pressure on it.
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  #13  
Old 02-22-2005
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thats prolly your spring plate or wutever you call it. might have to drop the entire transmission.
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Old 02-22-2005
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In auto-tech we rebuilt a 1995 explorer sport trans... right now, we are having the same problem with the clutch... Ill let you know tomarrow if we can get it fixxed and post what the problem was
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  #15  
Old 02-22-2005
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i like my truck being a manual. i was scared at first but now i dont think id have it any other way. besides, i have less to fix if it breaks. and when my mom had her 03 gt stang everybody complained cuz she had an automatic. now when she got her 05 its a 5 speed and flippin sweet.
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  #16  
Old 02-23-2005
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Well, rest easy, I got the problem fixed. I don't know why, but for some reason the Haynes manual recommended bleeding procedure didn't work all that great. Borrowed a friends vacuum pump and had the air sucked out in about 5 mins. Works at least as good as it did before I went to messing with it
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2005
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check out this siteundefined


http://perfectionclutch.blogspot.com...hydraulic.html
These applications require special procedures to bleed the hydraulic system properly. The mounting position of the master cylinder on the firewall traps air in the rear portion of the cylinder. Before bleeding the system, remove the master cylinder from the firewall and position it so the reservoir end is higher than the push rod end. This will enable air to escape from the rear position of the cylinders. Use only approved hydraulic fluid recommended by the manufacturer. We highly recommend the use of a Phoenix™ injection-bleeding tool, which is available through your Perfection Clutch distributor. For additional information, refer to Ford bulletin #93-12-19.

www.perfectionclutch.com
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  #18  
Old 06-16-2006
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I know I'm thread digging here, but here me out guys.

Adjusting the grab point of my clutch involves the fluid right?

What do I need to do to adjust it to make it grab sooner? Do I bleed it or does it involve adding more fluid?

Or is there an easier way to adjust it that I don't knwo about?
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  #19  
Old 06-16-2006
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger02_4x4
i wish mine was manual... wanna trade?

here here, the 4.0 auto tranny blows. I just post on another thread how I hit 26,500 miles tonight and everyday I can tell the shifting is getting worse and worse. I'd rather be in control of the shifting not some pos circuit board the genius's at ford whipped up.
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