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Old 11-11-2011
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Clutch problems

I have a 2000 3.0 2wd. Im having problems with it going into gear. My Dad and I did the clutch kit and slave cylinder 3 years ago before he died. I let the fluid resivior go dry a couple of months ago and filled it up. I have a few inches of play in the petal before I have clutch. Any ideas like can there be air in the hydrolic system? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
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Old 11-11-2011
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Yep, air

If the reservoir ran dry you most likely have air in the system. You will need to bleed the system, same as brake bleeding, have someone get behind the wheel and get what pedal they can while you open the bleeder. Make sure they don't let up on the pedal until you close the bleeder. That should get you going, if not check back in here and we will help.
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Old 11-11-2011
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If the fluid level went down that far where it was dry chances are the slave is failing again.Some aftermarket slaves don't last as long as the originals.Check for fluid leaking under the bell housing, If it's wet,it's time for a new slave.
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Old 11-11-2011
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I tried to bleed it but couldn't get the snap ring off. Gonna try a little later after it warms up.
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Old 11-11-2011
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What snap ring ?
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Old 11-11-2011
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To do the gravoty bleed on the slave cylinder
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Old 11-12-2011
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theres a 5/16 little bleeder sticking out of the trans. Open that to gravity bleed it.
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Old 11-12-2011
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This topic has managed my life for the last three weeks as I am also having issues with my clutch.

After watching the three videos I am going to post for you I am certain that it is the ONLY way to properly diagnose and bleed your clutch system.

Pay special attention to the first video. In the first 5 minutes it will show you how to diagnose a clutch issue. This is key.

In the second video as well as the first it will show your how to properly bench bleed your system.

In the third video it will demonstrate how to disingage the hydraulic system.

1.


2.


3.

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Old 11-14-2011
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What if I dont have that quick disconnect for Bleeding?
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Old 11-14-2011
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The bleeder is on the side of the slave and is the same type as the brake bleeder screw at each wheel.
It will usually have a black rubber cap you pull off , then use a small socket or box end wrench to open.
Same as a brake bleeder.
You don't disconnect anything.
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Old 11-14-2011
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You should have one of the types of disconnects in the 3 video. Your local auto part store should have the realease tool ...mine did. If not email perfection clutch and they will send you one free of charge.
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Old 11-14-2011
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http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...leedclutch.htm

Illustration 1-1 at the bottom of the page on that link is the bleeder your looking for.
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Old 11-14-2011
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Good picture. I'm pretty sure every ranger transmission is set up like that.
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Old 11-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcollins View Post
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...leedclutch.htm

Illustration 1-1 at the bottom of the page on that link is the bleeder your looking for.
Sorry Ive been busy with work to respond back so quickly. I bled it using the steps in your link and it worked. Its still not 100% but I can now shift alot better. Any other tricks? Thinking about of doint that bleed where you take the master resivour and disconnect from tranny gravity bleed. Thanks
Kevin
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Old 11-21-2011
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The main problem with these clutch systems is the angle of the master cylinder. To do it properly the master has to be unbolted and tipped so the air bubble inside goes toward the outlet.This best done on a bench but it is possible with it in the truck with two people.
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  #16  
Old 11-22-2011
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Quick tip...if you bleed the master, and end up having to replace the slave again...next time you bleed the slave after initial install...all I did when I did the slave on my ranger was fill up the reservoir, open the bleeder a few turns, gravity bleed it for 10 seconds. Then I closed the bleeder screw and just drove it. Never had to do any pumping bleeding or anything.
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