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Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 08-02-2016
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Clutch wine

I recently bought a ranger and now a couple weeks later I am getting a sound that sounds like 2 plates are rubbing together, at first I thought trans fluid must be low but as I was driving to get more fluid I realized the noise only is going when the clutch is released, even in neutral but right when I push the clutch in it goes away and when I release it comes back. I ididnt change the fluid or have checked the levels but I was seeing hat others thoughts o this matter are before I start throwing money in none needed areas
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Old 08-02-2016
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Welcome to the forum.

Could be throw-out bearing making the noise.

The clutch slave is bolted to the bell housing so can't move, the pressure plate which needs to be pushed in by the slave is spinning at engine RPMs.
So there is a bearing in between them, it is attached to the slave, that's the throw-out bearing.

When clutch pedal is up then throw-out bearing is still touching the spinning pressure plate but not under load, so could produce a noise.
When you just barely push down on the clutch pedal that will put pressure on the throw-out bearing, if noise stops then that would confirm throw-out bearing.

It is more common for the throw-out bearing to make noise when clutch pedal is down all the way, under alot of pressure, and a very loud noise, but this type of no-load failure is not unheard of if that is what it is.

The transmission spins at the same speed as the rear wheels, there is no disconnect for that, so a noise that is there only when moving could be from transmission/driveline.

The clutch disconnects engine from transmission.

So while stopped, 0 RPM inside transmission, clutch pedal in there is no noise right?

Now shift into Neutral and take foot off clutch pedal, the noise starts, right?

Now increase engine RPMs and listen for a change in the noise, if it changes then noise is coming from bell housing area, clutch system, not transmission.

There is a slight chance it is the input shaft bearing but it would make the noise regardless of clutch pedal position.

But you should still check trans fluid level
You have an M5OD-R1 transmission, it uses ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid, NOT gear oil
There are 3 rubber plugs at the top rear of this trans that can leak, these should be replaced next time you do the clutch.

Last edited by RonD; 08-02-2016 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 08-02-2016
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My old B2200 did just this, under load the throw-out bearing was quiet, but under normal driving, the bearing was noisy.

If I road the clutch pedal to put a slight load on the bearing (not enough to no where to disengage the clutch) the noise would stop.

I found myself resting my foot on the pedal just to keep the very annoying noise quiet.
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Old 08-03-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Welcome to the forum.

Could be throw-out bearing making the noise.

The clutch slave is bolted to the bell housing so can't move, the pressure plate which needs to be pushed in by the slave is spinning at engine RPMs.
So there is a bearing in between them, it is attached to the slave, that's the throw-out bearing.

When clutch pedal is up then throw-out bearing is still touching the spinning pressure plate but not under load, so could produce a noise.
When you just barely push down on the clutch pedal that will put pressure on the throw-out bearing, if noise stops then that would confirm throw-out bearing.

It is more common for the throw-out bearing to make noise when clutch pedal is down all the way, under alot of pressure, and a very loud noise, but this type of no-load failure is not unheard of if that is what it is.

The transmission spins at the same speed as the rear wheels, there is no disconnect for that, so a noise that is there only when moving could be from transmission/driveline.

The clutch disconnects engine from transmission.

So while stopped, 0 RPM inside transmission, clutch pedal in there is no noise right?

Now shift into Neutral and take foot off clutch pedal, the noise starts, right?

Now increase engine RPMs and listen for a change in the noise, if it changes then noise is coming from bell housing area, clutch system, not transmission.

There is a slight chance it is the input shaft bearing but it would make the noise regardless of clutch pedal position.

But you should still check trans fluid level
You have an M5OD-R1 transmission, it uses ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid, NOT gear oil
There are 3 rubber plugs at the top rear of this trans that can leak, these should be replaced next time you do the clutch.
So I'm pretty sure it is the throw out bearing, when ever at a stop with the clutch pedal released the noise does speed up and sometimes the clutch engages hard. And with clutch pushed it stops. I am not new to building engines at all however not so much to trans how hard are these to do?
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Old 08-03-2016
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Some tall jack stands, a level concrete floor and a transmission jack are very useful.
The critical thing is here is to support the engine and transmission when pulling it away from the engine as not to bend/bind the input shaft that rests in the end of the crank shaft.
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Old 08-03-2016
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Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
Some tall jack stands, a level concrete floor and a transmission jack are very useful.
The critical thing is here is to support the engine and transmission when pulling it away from the engine as not to bend/bind the input shaft that rests in the end of the crank shaft.
I have a lift and engine and trans stands so that's not an issue, but should I plan a full day, or a weekend...
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Old 08-03-2016
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I have a lift and engine and trans stands so that's not an issue, but should I plan a full day, or a weekend...
If you've never done it before, I would plan for a full weekend.
One should take their time when doing stuff like this, plus yours is a 4x4, so it's a little more involved then just a simple rear wheel drive.
When disconnecting the drive shaft mark the its position and use new nuts and bolts of the same quality.

You may not have too, but I've always used new.
I'm sure Ron will comment if their is more to add or if I need correcting.
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2016
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Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
If you've never done it before, I would plan for a full weekend.
One should take their time when doing stuff like this, plus yours is a 4x4, so it's a little more involved then just a simple rear wheel drive.
When disconnecting the drive shaft mark the its position and use new nuts and bolts of the same quality.

You may not have too, but I've always used new.
I'm sure Ron will comment if their is more to add or if I need correcting.
So I have done more testing with it. If I turn the truck off while driving their is a noise that still goes with the wheels spinning. So thats a little scary. But even worse is I crawled underneath and the big rubber clutch cover so you can look in behind the clutch is none existant. So i wonder if a bunch of dirt is getting in there and messing everything up. I am going to change the trans fluid as well but what plastic plugs does everyone suggest replacing when changing the fluid?
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Old 08-05-2016
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
So I have done more testing with it. If I turn the truck off while driving their is a noise that still goes with the wheels spinning. So thats a little scary. But even worse is I crawled underneath and the big rubber clutch cover so you can look in behind the clutch is none existant. So i wonder if a bunch of dirt is getting in there and messing everything up. I am going to change the trans fluid as well but what plastic plugs does everyone suggest replacing when changing the fluid?
Would it be a smart bet to go with a stage 1 Clutch so it lasts longer?
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