Dana 44... keep the auto hubs, or go with manuals? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 06-27-2007
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Dana 44... keep the auto hubs, or go with manuals?

My 72 Chevy Blazer D44 has auto-locking/internal/drive flange (I'm not sure which is the proper term?) hubs. They're basically full-time 4x4 hubs. I've gotten the impression that they aren't the strongest things or most ideal when it comes to wheeling. Should I go with some WARN Premium hubs? Or are there other manual hubs I should look into? Or will the auto hubs work alright for me? The end result is going to be 5.13 or 5.38 gears, lockrite, chromo shafts, and cut to 77-79 Waggy 44 length to use the waggy inner axle shafts. Tires will be in the 36"-37" range.

Also, from what I can tell, the hub/rotor assembly is all one piece and can't be separated. Will I have to change these if I go to manual hubs? The brakes seem to be in ok condition (I'll just clean them up and have them turned), but I will need to replace some of the wheel studs. Should I go ahead and replace all of them? Or is it an "If it ain't broke don't fix it" sort of thing?
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Old 06-27-2007
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go with manuals you will want the choice of free wheeling them or locking them in.

in all reality the driveflages are much stronger then manual hubs due to them being a solid machined chunk of metal with no moving parts. But with 36-37" tires your no where close to worring about it.
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Old 06-27-2007
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no brainer: manual hubs!
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Old 06-27-2007
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Cool deal. Any idea on whether I will need to change out the auto hub/rotor assembly for a manual one? Or will I just have to change out the metal cover for the manual ****?
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Old 06-27-2007
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it is just the metal cover on Dana 44's....
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Old 06-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
it is just the metal cover on Dana 44's....
your brake rotor hub assembly will work. Just remove all the stuff for the driveflange and stick in the manual hubs. Just carry your driveflanges on the trail with you as spares so if for some reason you ever have hub problems you can use them to get off the trail.
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Old 06-27-2007
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ok. I've got an inner hub nut, a spacer thing with some holes in it, an outer hub nut, a spring, a metal gear-shaped slug thing, a snap ring, and then the metal cover. It looks to me like the warns only replace the metal cover... Is that right?
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Old 06-27-2007
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yes, and make sure you get Warn Premium hubs.....they are by far the best on the market...
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Old 06-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
ok. I've got an inner hub nut, a spacer thing with some holes in it, an outer hub nut, a spring, a metal gear-shaped slug thing, a snap ring, and then the metal cover. It looks to me like the warns only replace the metal cover... Is that right?
you will need the Warn hub nut set as IIRC its different then the factory waggy stuff. Warn hubs replace everything but the nuts that hold the bearings and rotor assembly on. as you need to purchase them seperatly
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Old 06-27-2007
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I finally found a copy of the WARN installation instructions and it answered all my questions. The drive flange gets replaced by the lockout hub. The inner/outer hub nuts, the spacer, and the spring/slinger all stay in. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 06-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
I finally found a copy of the WARN installation instructions and it answered all my questions. The drive flange gets replaced by the lockout hub. The inner/outer hub nuts, the spacer, and the spring/slinger all stay in. Thanks for the help guys!
Im almost positive the spring from the drive flange does not stay in their. I know when I did my reassembly I took everything off, then put the bearings and rotor assembly on. Then the locking nuts. Then the lockout slides in.

Edit: here you go with pictures and all.

http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods...ub_rebuild.htm
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