Differential Fluid Change - 2003 B2300
 

Here's the products that I used:

Gasket:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

Buy Permatex The Right Stuff Gasket Maker (5 oz) 29208 at Advance Auto Parts

The exact same stuff used by Ford GM Mercedes on their assembly lines.

Oil:

Buy Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-140 (1 qt.) 102490/98FS32 at Advance Auto Parts

75W-140 x 2 bottles plus 75W-90 x1 bottle (to save cost since only half is used).

Tips:

Adding the oil:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

Cut a 12" piece of clear PVC tubing 3/8" Inner Diameter and 1/2" Outer Diameter and twist in onto the cap as far as possible.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

Do this before you remove the seal from the bottle of Gear Oil.

With the sealed bottle and tubing connected, position yourself under the vehicle and install the tubing into the fill plug opening as a Mock trial. Set it up so you are comfortable and the bottle well positioned above the axle/differential housing and nicely looping into the fill plug.

Now you're ready to begin the filling procedure. Keep the end of the PVC tube bent upwards until it fully resides within the fill plug.

Filling can get real messy if you don't precautions to prevent spillage. The oil is a heavy weight but it flows easily and quickly.

Finding the filler plug (No drain plug exists)

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

Applying the Gasket material:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

It is applied on the inside portion of the bolt holes.

Torque settings:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

Draining The Fluid:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1377704481

I left the top bolt loosely in place.

Cleaning the gasket mating surfaces:

You'll note that they must be clean and free of oil before applying the gasket material.

Well, that takes quite awhile because your Diif gearing continues to drip fluid for quite some time. I used a rag stuffed into the bottom of the Diff casing to absorb the dripping oil.

I also used a nylon chisel from Northern Hydraulics to scrape the remnant gasket material off the mating surfaces. I used 3M's adhesive remover aerosol to aid in the process.

I've heard others say they've used brake cleaner to clean the mating surface of the housing cover and the differential after scraping the old gasket material and applying the new stuff. Is that ok to do?

Yup perfectly fine. That's what I always use after scraping the old material off

Should work fine just spray it a long ways away from any painted surface on your vehicle as it often has a powerful stream that can affect your painted surface.

The bigger issue is keeping the oil from slowly dripping down onto the Diff case mating surface as the oil drains from the gears. That's why I shoved a rag into the bottom of the Diff case while it drains.

i usually spray a rag with the brakleen and use that to wipe it the mounting surface so theres no overspray.

I do the same thing putting a rag right under the ring gear to soak all that stuff up or it'll never end lol

good write-up by the way!

I used Advance Auto Parts TRT30 coupon for 30% off so that helped on the materials cost.

2 x Mobil 1 75w-140 = $33.09

1 x Mobil 1 70w-90 = $9.50

Permatex Gasket: $10

Total: $52.59

All Pro Automotive in Kennesaw wanted $95 tax included.

So I saved about $42. Not sure the job is worth doing at home for that kind of savings.

I noticed the magnet housed within the filler plug had accumulated enough to cover it with a fairly thick layer.

So I bought one of these to add to the outside of the Diff cover and the Transmission pan: