Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Engine Swap

  #1  
Old 09-24-2018
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Engine Swap

If I get a 4.0 out of a 2001 Ford Ranger but itís 2WD and a manual will it be a direct fit for my 2001 4WD Automatic Ranger?
 
  #2  
Old 09-24-2018
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Welcome to the forum

Both engines are 4.0l SOHC models so yes

You will need to take off 2wd/manuals flywheel and put your Flexplate on in its place

The 4x4 engines had a balancer shaft inside, but it was found to not be needed, engineers added it to 4x4s because in 2001 the front driveshaft would be spinning all the time with "Live Axle", so they thought that would cause a vibration if the engine wasn't counter balanced.
By 2004 or so there were very few 4x4s that came with balancer shafts

Heads up, the 1997 to 2004 4.0l SOHC engines had timing chain issues, new parts are available that correct this, but can only be installed with engine out of the vehicle
 
  #3  
Old 09-24-2018
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Welcome to the forum

Both engines are 4.0l SOHC models so yes

You will need to take off 2wd/manuals flywheel and put your Flexplate on in its place

The 4x4 engines had a balancer shaft inside, but it was found to not be needed, engineers added it to 4x4s because in 2001 the front driveshaft would be spinning all the time with "Live Axle", so they thought that would cause a vibration if the engine wasn't counter balanced.
By 2004 or so there were very few 4x4s that came with balancer shafts

Heads up, the 1997 to 2004 4.0l SOHC engines had timing chain issues, new parts are available that correct this, but can only be installed with engine out of the vehicle
yeah Iíd like to go with an 05 or newer but it seems like a decent amount of work to switch over
 
  #4  
Old 09-25-2018
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You can pull out your current engine and rebuild it, I would price that out first
If the vehicle is not a "rust bucket" a rebuilt engine is not a bad investment
The bottom end on these: main bearings, rod bearings, pistons and rings lasted 400k+ miles
So you may just need to do head gaskets or just timing chains, not sure what the problem is?

A used engine is a roll of the dice, there is no warranty on the labor, only on the used engine, and even that can be a roll of the dice, lol.
I have read a few post about these warranties being refused because the engine failure was deemed to be "installer error", especially if it was done by the owner, not a Licensed Shop, so just a heads up
So get the bottom line cost for used engine delivered to you so you have a number to compare rebuild cost with

The removal and installation cost/time is the same for either choice
Then weigh the difference to YOU, on having a used engine with unknown history, and a rebuilt engine you know
 

Last edited by RonD; 09-25-2018 at 10:37 AM.
  #5  
Old 09-25-2018
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+1 ^^^

Rebuilding is the safer bet. If I had the munny, I would have gone that way, but you can get lucky with a used one. I recently swapped my 2003 2WD for one from a 2008 4WD, and it so happens, the wrecking yard makes videos of their inventory when it comes in. The donor for my choice was still running, but the owner was having trans problems and probably junked it.

This place gave me 6 months for a warranty, but I think it's void because it's a later engine in my older truck.

Here's MY engine running


Bad for him, but good for me. I bought it, shipped it from the East Coast, and I installed it over the course of 2 weeks with the only "problem" being the fuel injector "adapters" breaking.

The intake wiring was different, so I swapped the one from mine.

Some fogging oil, disconnecting the fuel pump relay so I could turn the engine to prime the engine with oil, replugged the relay, turned the engine a few times after the fuel pump pressurized the system.

It lives!!!

I got video of my excitedness, too, but I won't embarrass myself here

Rebuilding yourself? You'll need some special tools. You'll find the camshaft timing tool very helpful!

I'll be rebuilding my old engine once I get the funds together for said tools and kit, but I'm finding difficulty in locating connecting rod bolts and head bolts that aren't "torque to yield" (TTY), but hey...I'll use the TTY if I have to. >:(

A remanufactured engine runs about 2Gs and up (core charges apply) from a local reman shop/company.

Hope this helps!
 
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