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-   -   front end grinding/ and vibration (https://www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-tech-37/front-end-grinding-vibration-89715/)

desertranger4.0 07-06-2009 05:09 PM

front end grinding/ and vibration
 
2001 4x4 started grinding and having vib in the front end yesterday. jacked up whole truck checked rear everything was good. checked front in 4 wheel drive and could feel and hear the sound. got under the truck and turned the front drivers side and could hear a noise that was on about only 1/3 of the total tire rotation from the front diff. im lost as to what it could be. i just changed that rear pinion seal a few weeks ago but have put about 500 miles on the truck since that. really dont want to take this thing to ford. any ideas??

ranger05 07-06-2009 05:10 PM

maybe a wheel bearing

desertranger4.0 07-06-2009 05:13 PM

i didnt have any play in the tires when i pulled on them. that huge pinion nut took a big impact to take off and thats how we put it back in so could it have been too tight and mess something up?

ranger05 07-06-2009 05:48 PM

you could have over tightend it. when driving does the noise go away when moving left or right.

desertranger4.0 07-06-2009 05:50 PM

noise does not go away and is at all speeds.

billet03 07-06-2009 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by desertranger4.0 (Post 1393360)
i didnt have any play in the tires when i pulled on them. that huge pinion nut took a big impact to take off and thats how we put it back in so could it have been too tight and mess something up?

I might be wrong but I don't think their would be play unless the bearing seals bust, cause mine whent totally out and the wheel would move because the bearing seals where busted, hence causing play. but I am only 50% sure so don't quote me.

desertranger4.0 07-06-2009 08:28 PM

so would just this bearing cause consistant vibration at all speeds? if so how can i replace it?

chainfire 07-07-2009 12:47 AM

You go to Napa, and buy a bearing for your truck. OR, drive it to a shop and have them diagnose it, and repair it.

billet03 07-07-2009 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by desertranger4.0 (Post 1393661)
so would just this bearing cause consistant vibration at all speeds? if so how can i replace it?

yeah, and probably roars too, they sale 'em at most parts stores and obviously at the dealership. but if you 4x4 uses vacum locking hubs you have to get the whole hub assembly, they don't sell just the bearings for a vacum locking hub, cause it all has to be sealed tight.

chainfire 07-07-2009 02:18 PM


Originally Posted by billet03 (Post 1394379)
yeah, and probably roars too, they sale 'em at most parts stores and obviously at the dealership. but if you 4x4 uses vacum locking hubs you have to get the whole hub assembly, they don't sell just the bearings for a vacum locking hub, cause it all has to be sealed tight.

You have to get the whole hub assemble for Ford 4x4's, regardless if its vacuum or not

billet03 07-07-2009 02:22 PM

[QUOTE=chainfire;1394410]You have to get the whole hub assemble for Ford 4x4's, regardless if its vacuum or not[/QUOT

okay, just trying to explain why, I know you can only buy the hub assemblies but on the manual hubs they don't have to be vaccum tight. that's all I was trying to say.

desertranger4.0 07-07-2009 03:33 PM

any issues driving on it until ford can get me in for a diagnosis?

chainfire 07-07-2009 03:53 PM

[QUOTE=billet03;1394417]

Originally Posted by chainfire (Post 1394410)
You have to get the whole hub assemble for Ford 4x4's, regardless if its vacuum or not[/QUOT

okay, just trying to explain why, I know you can only buy the hub assemblies but on the manual hubs they don't have to be vaccum tight. that's all I was trying to say.

You have the years mixed up there man. All 2000.5 to 09+ are a live axel setup with no manual hubs. Mine are a vacuum hum, 98-early 2000, in which you can convert to manual hubs via AVM. The 97 and below are a totally different suspension setup, and they have the option for manual hubs too.

What am trying to say is that the unit bearing has nothing to do with it being a vacuum system or not. Ford does it because instead of just buying bearings and races, you have to buy a $300+ part. Good thing is that it cuts down on your labour costs, bad thing is, if you a do it yourselfer, it ups the cost.

Ford doesnt make any money on labour at a dealership. where they make theior money is in parts. So if the labour is down, but the cost of the part goes up, Ford makes more money.



Originally Posted by desertranger4.0 (Post 1394477)
any issues driving on it until ford can get me in for a diagnosis?

Well how important is your front wheel? If it gets bad enough it can fall off.

desertranger4.0 07-07-2009 04:04 PM

cool well ford is getting me in first thing in the morning they said it will be up to a hour for the diagnosis for about $105. I figure that will at least save me from replacing what could be the wrong part. Ill go pull on the wheels again and see if there is any play but i didnt feel it last time and for some reason it sounds more like a diff bearing to me.

chainfire 07-07-2009 04:05 PM

Yeah its good to know your limitations lol.
For your sake, I honestly hope that it is not the diff bearing.

desertranger4.0 07-07-2009 04:08 PM

well i know my limits i just dont have the tools set up anymore to be ripping stuff apart. i cant imagine the diff bearing going out already considering that seems like something that would only break under harsh conditions but hey who knows yet once again ford lets me down. i have been raised ford for almost 30 years and im thinking maybe a tundra would be the way to go.

chainfire 07-07-2009 04:15 PM

Honestly unless you need the space, the Tundra is a big truck. Don't get me wrong, I love them, my Dad has an 04 with the 4.7 v8 in it. That thing is fun lol.

How long have you had the truck? How many miles on it? Anyway the previous owner abused it?

desertranger4.0 07-07-2009 05:05 PM

ya the new one is huge. no i would be going for a 2005-6 quad cab. so i just took the front end up in the air wheels are tight. i could here and feel something making noise at the driveshaft so i pulled it off and tried driving a few feet. still had the vib and grind. what about a cv joint causing this?

chainfire 07-07-2009 05:56 PM

Thats another possibility, try putting it in 4 lo to get maximum torque out of it. If you hear any popping, then its your cv.

billet03 07-07-2009 07:20 PM

[QUOTE=chainfire;1394497]

Originally Posted by billet03 (Post 1394417)

You have the years mixed up there man. All 2000.5 to 09+ are a live axel setup with no manual hubs. Mine are a vacuum hum, 98-early 2000, in which you can convert to manual hubs via AVM. The 97 and below are a totally different suspension setup, and they have the option for manual hubs too.

What am trying to say is that the unit bearing has nothing to do with it being a vacuum system or not. Ford does it because instead of just buying bearings and races, you have to buy a $300+ part. Good thing is that it cuts down on your labour costs, bad thing is, if you a do it yourselfer, it ups the cost.

Ford doesnt make any money on labour at a dealership. where they make theior money is in parts. So if the labour is down, but the cost of the part goes up, Ford makes more money.




Well how important is your front wheel? If it gets bad enough it can fall off.

that's cool man, I understand what your saying. I know the unit beraing has nothing to do with it being vacum or not, I was wondering if his were manual hubs or other, and I just now saw his year of truck so poopie on me lol

desertranger4.0 07-12-2009 05:20 PM

well got my truck back from american gear in san luis obispo and they changed out the pinion bearings and new seals all the way around for $674. perfect job and they used all timken bearings. works better now than when it was brand new. if anyone wants to know what caused it send me a message. thanks for all the help guys!

billet03 07-12-2009 08:54 PM

hot dang, I obviously was wrong, good thing you didn't listen to me lol. glad to hear it's fixed. what caused it?

desertranger4.0 08-15-2009 10:24 AM

from what they said it looked like the pinon nut was over tightened when the pinon seal was changed. o well a $6 dollar seal cost me over $700 total always good times.


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