Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Gearing questions/concern

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Old 12-07-2018
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Gearing questions/concern

So ive been another group forum due to transmission swap...

my 2.9 trans is coming out by tommorow

It is a 90 ranger 2.9 however i have a transmission thats a 89 mustang 2.3l which i heard is geared differently..


The mustang 2.3l makes its power up high while the 2.9l makes its power down low.

between the two years/vehicles there is a 54hp differance, 94lb weight differance, and a -5 tire profile width differance.

"What one has stated 'the mustang a4ld makes its power up high while the ranger makes its power down low..."

In referance to gearing on what i prefer "speed over torque" would the transmission have any reason to fail any faster going with a higher gear ratio? I dont feel in such a way that this will kill it any faster as there is only a 94lb gvwr differance in the vehicle there however is 54hp more then that of the mustang.

I feel the power aspect is a gain over loss of torque which can compensate for torque loss.
 
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Old 12-08-2018
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The A4LD in both vehicles had the same "gearing", planetary gear sets, so the rumors/myths are not correct
All A4LDs used:
2.47:1 1st gear
1.47:1 2nd gear
1.00:1 3rd gear
0.75:1 4th gear<<< OD
2.1:1 reverse

Engines are what have the Power Band for their best torque
The 2.3l made best torque at 2,600RPM
2.9l was the same, best torque at 2,600RPM
4.0l was 2,400RPM
3.0l was 3,600RPM<<<<<< which was why it was considered under powered by many, especially with an A4LD, it would shift before you even got close to best power

Rear axle ratio is where you chose between speed and "get up and go"
Higher ratio rear axle gets you going faster quicker
Lower ratio gives you power up past 80MPH

Rangers are trucks made to haul loads so they usually have 3.73 or 4.10 ratios, the higher the ratio the better for carrying loads or towing loads
Cars usually came with lower ratios, top speed cruising
 
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Old 12-08-2018
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Originally Posted by RonD
The A4LD in both vehicles had the same "gearing", planetary gear sets, so the rumors/myths are not correct
All A4LDs used:
2.47:1 1st gear
1.47:1 2nd gear
1.00:1 3rd gear
0.75:1 4th gear<<< OD
2.1:1 reverse

Engines are what have the Power Band for their best torque
The 2.3l made best torque at 2,600RPM
2.9l was the same, best torque at 2,600RPM
4.0l was 2,400RPM
3.0l was 3,600RPM<<<<<< which was why it was considered under powered by many, especially with an A4LD, it would shift before you even got close to best power

Rear axle ratio is where you chose between speed and "get up and go"
Higher ratio rear axle gets you going faster quicker
Lower ratio gives you power up past 80MPH

Rangers are trucks made to haul loads so they usually have 3.73 or 4.10 ratios, the higher the ratio the better for carrying loads or towing loads
Cars usually came with lower ratios, top speed cruising

I knew his claim lacked sense.. Axle is what he meant

Whats the biggest tire size i can use with no lift i like tire height to have crawl under. The vehicle right now in certain areas cross member and gas tank just almoust touches the chest
 
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Old 12-08-2018
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You can read here for tire sizes: https://www.ranger-forums.com/wheels...re-size-20047/

Tire diameter size changes rear axle's true ratio, the larger a tire gets the Lower the true axle ratio becomes

Calculator here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...ioChange.shtml
Example
If you have 27" tires with a 3.73 rear axle ratio, and you changed to 30" tires then actual ratio would change to 3.36, it would act like 3.36 axle would
3.36 would give you higher top speed but would be slower off the "starting line", less get up and go from stating start

Changing rear axle gears to 4.10 ratio and using the 30" tires would bring actual ratio of 3.73 back, so truck would drive the same as it did with 27" tires
 

Last edited by RonD; 12-08-2018 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 12-08-2018
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Pump and bell house torque spec

1990 ranger pump and bell torque specs?
 
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Old 12-09-2018
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Remember to seat torque converter INTO the transmission 3 "clicks" before mating trans to engine

Bell house should slide onto engine and sit flush to engine block, NEVER EVER use bell housing bolts to FORCE bell housing flush to engine, something is wrong
After bell housing and engine are flush tighten bell housing bolts to 25-30ft/lb
THEN slide torque converter forward to bolt it to flexplate

Bolts that hold bell housing to transmission case is 40ft/lb, its the back case for front pump

The front pump torx bolts are 20ft/lb
 
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Old 12-11-2018
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Originally Posted by RonD
Remember to seat torque converter INTO the transmission 3 "clicks" before mating trans to engine

Bell house should slide onto engine and sit flush to engine block, NEVER EVER use bell housing bolts to FORCE bell housing flush to engine, something is wrong
After bell housing and engine are flush tighten bell housing bolts to 25-30ft/lb
THEN slide torque converter forward to bolt it to flexplate

Bolts that hold bell housing to transmission case is 40ft/lb, its the back case for front pump

The front pump torx bolts are 20ft/lb
Thanks, well im 95% done removing, as i refuse to pull the y pipe having an issue with only the top cooler line access got it busted loose with a flair 5/8 but takes a regular 5/8 to get the last of it off.

Thinking about modifying a 12 pt 5/8s rear end ..by cutting the back out of it enough to squeeze on the line and lock on to the nut easy due to lack of space.

Had to jump a step (dip sticktube pulled) to access the line more.

I tell you what that first line closer to ground is sitting on by a single thread and WOOOOO WWEEE stinks like burnt a** toast in the air.

was the perfect time to wash my hair after though..


Anywho ill send more updates tommorow friend of mine will be coming out tommorow so he will be helping me get the transmission down.

"A one armed ***** temporarily by accident has done a lot of work on one arm."

 
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