Getting that smooth 1st to 2nd shift... - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 04-12-2010
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Haha reminds me of a Triplex I drove. That sticking the arm through the steering wheel bit to shift got old real fast.
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  #27  
Old 04-16-2010
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dang you all seem to shift at a low rpm, i shift smoothly between 3200 and 3700 rpm in every gear, can you say 80mph in 4th! lol
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  #28  
Old 04-16-2010
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Originally Posted by 2001FORDRANGEREDGE View Post
dang you all seem to shift at a low rpm, i shift smoothly between 3200 and 3700 rpm in every gear, can you say 80mph in 4th! lol
at that point its just burning gas. especially crusing at those RPMs. i cruise at about 1900 if i can.
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  #29  
Old 04-16-2010
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i shifted my 2.9 around 2.5-3k with the same trans as yours and now i have an explorer with a 4.0 and i shift when it whines(idk why it whines...but its around 2.5k)
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  #30  
Old 04-17-2010
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i shift mind around 3000 generally... but when cruizin, i am usually in 5th
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  #31  
Old 04-17-2010
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Originally Posted by pcollins View Post
at that point its just burning gas. especially crusing at those RPMs. i cruise at about 1900 if i can.
i dont cruise at that rpm, thats when speeding up to highway speeds. i cruise 2700 or so in 5th. around here under 85 and your going slow.
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  #32  
Old 04-17-2010
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agreed with everybody else, you just have to learn your truck and feel the shifts. This is probably gonna sound weird, but you have to "become one" with the truck and note every sound the engine makes and know when to shift. You will know when it is "lugging" as it will be running at a low RPM and will barely gain speed even when to the floor. I learned to drive a manual in a ranger, and anything else it just hard. Keep trying and you will get better...
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2010
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Moved my seat back 1/2 inch. Went for a test drive. Missed all 5 gears.
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  #34  
Old 04-19-2010
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Originally Posted by pcollins View Post
at that point its just burning gas. especially crusing at those RPMs. i cruise at about 1900 if i can.
I agree thats a pretty high shift for everyday driving, maybe if you have a 3.0 you need to do that. I'm surprised at how little people know about driving manuals. My cousin use to sit at stop lights with the clutch held in at all times. It took me a long time to break him of that habit. I guess driving a manual all your life and growing up around big trucks makes it almost instinctive.
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  #35  
Old 04-23-2010
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Originally Posted by Ranger_Envy View Post
I agree thats a pretty high shift for everyday driving, maybe if you have a 3.0 you need to do that. I'm surprised at how little people know about driving manuals. My cousin use to sit at stop lights with the clutch held in at all times. It took me a long time to break him of that habit. I guess driving a manual all your life and growing up around big trucks makes it almost instinctive.
like he was using the clutch as the brake so he didnt need to use the brake? or he was just sitting there in neutral with the clutch in? whats wrong with that? i sit at lights in first waiting.....otherwise i stall out from not being ready...
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  #36  
Old 04-23-2010
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the first time i got in a car that was stick i drove it like ive been doing it for a long time.
it sounds like your not getting the right rpm try shifting around 3000 3500 rpm
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  #37  
Old 04-24-2010
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Originally Posted by '91 Project-STX View Post
or he was just sitting there in neutral with the clutch in? whats wrong with that? i sit at lights in first waiting.....otherwise i stall out from not being ready...
He was leaving the car in first and holding in the clutch the entire duration of being stopped. When ever you have the clutch pedal pushed in the throw out bearing is running. You always want to minimize the amount of time the throw out bearing is running. If it goes out you'll be removing your tranny in order to swap it. Its a big No No when driving manuals.

Thats why I love our Mack mixer trucks at work. They actually have a switch on the shifter that allows you to change from forward, neutral or reverse. That way you can push in the clutch and flip the switch to neutral at a stop. Then when you need to go in forward or reverse you can just push in the clutch and flip the switch and you'll be in either a forward or reverse gear. It may not sound like a big deal but when you've driven a truck and you try to put it in first and the clutch brake hasn't done its thing yet, it can suck.
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  #38  
Old 09-22-2010
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In my 1988 Ranger, how i shift is after getting up to 2500 rpm's, then shift to 2nd, smooth every time.
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  #39  
Old 09-28-2010
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If you want smooth, quick shifts, buy a Mustang. These are trucks (albeit little ones) and have truck transmissions designed for hauling or towing, not racing. There is nothing wrong with that; you just have to understand shifting a truck is going to be different. I agree with those who recommended more rpms before shifting. Lugging is HARD on your truck and burns LOTS more fuel than running the rpms up before shifting. The 2.3 doesn't reach peak torque until 3750 rpms. The closer you are to peak torque when shifting, the better. Yeah, it sounds like it's screaming, but they are designed to rev. I average 30+ miles per gallon and normally wind it to at least 3000 before shifting up. Stay in the power band if you want fuel efficiency.

As far as downshifting for engine braking...DON'T! Brake pads and rotors are cheap and easy to replace. Clutch repair is a pain in the butt and darn expensive if you can't do it yourself. If you are in an emergency situation, where stopping is more important than clutch plates, go ahead and downshift. Otherwise use the middle pedal. I also try to anticipate stopping and get off the gas early, provided the traffic will allow me to do so safely.

Waiting at a stop sign/light with the clutch depressed is a no, no? I'm an old fart and that's the first time I've heard that. It might be true, but in over 40 years of driving manual transmission vehicles (mostly pickups) I've waited at lots of stop lights with the clutch depressed and have yet to replace a throwout bearing. I had a '64 Chevy 6 banger pickup with 100+k miles on it when I bought it. The throwout bearing was noisy when I bought it, but I thought I'd drive it a while and see what happened. After 40-50,000 miles, I traded it and a buddy's kids bought it and ran it up over 200k without replacing the bearing. The front end finally got so loose, they had to park it. The only time I shift into neutral at a light is if I know it's a long light and my leg gets tired of holding the clutch (more of a problem with my old Dodge 2500 than with the Ranger). Still, if I can save some wear and tear, why not? I'll give it a try.
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  #40  
Old 09-28-2010
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Originally Posted by 30coupe View Post
Waiting at a stop sign/light with the clutch depressed is a no, no? I'm an old fart and that's the first time I've heard that. It might be true, but in over 40 years of driving manual transmission vehicles (mostly pickups) I've waited at lots of stop lights with the clutch depressed and have yet to replace a throwout bearing. I had a '64 Chevy 6 banger pickup with 100+k miles on it when I bought it. The throwout bearing was noisy when I bought it, but I thought I'd drive it a while and see what happened. After 40-50,000 miles, I traded it and a buddy's kids bought it and ran it up over 200k without replacing the bearing. The front end finally got so loose, they had to park it. The only time I shift into neutral at a light is if I know it's a long light and my leg gets tired of holding the clutch (more of a problem with my old Dodge 2500 than with the Ranger). Still, if I can save some wear and tear, why not? I'll give it a try.
In most cases throw out bearings are sealed bearings. So they can't have more grease inserted in them. Also just about every throw out bearing involves removing the transmission to replace it. Why put more wear on it then you need to?
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  #41  
Old 09-28-2010
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I see how downshifting can wear the clutch, but if you do it right, the clutch can still last a long time. My stepfather had over 200,000 Miles on his old F150, and inline 6 4 speed. Still had the original clutch in it when he sold it, and he downshifted daily.
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  #42  
Old 11-21-2010
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I like to rest my heel on the floor to have best clutch control and revs 2500-3000 rpm and I get nice smooth shifts 1st to 2nd. Id rather over rev in to the power band than lugg the motor down. low rpms is not always the best feul milage, need to run the motor freely rather than work it harder.
Downshifting only when coasting drop a gear maybe,.unless emergency it works well to stop quicker but overall much rather replace brake pads than replace the clutch.
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  #43  
Old 11-21-2010
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Originally Posted by RangerAnger View Post
I like to rest my heel on the floor to have best clutch control and revs 2500-3000 rpm and I get nice smooth shifts 1st to 2nd. Id rather over rev in to the power band than lugg the motor down. low rpms is not always the best feul milage, need to run the motor freely rather than work it harder.
Downshifting only when coasting drop a gear maybe,.unless emergency it works well to stop quicker but overall much rather replace brake pads than replace the clutch.
The only good advantage i think of shifting down is when your driving in bad snow conditions.
Like the other day, Utah had a foot and half dumped in four hours, so when i drove in it, i found the best way to slow down is down shifting, so i rarely used the brakes.
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  #44  
Old 11-22-2010
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But if you down shift too much on slippery ice and snow it can cause the rear end to breake loose with the engine brake and thak could be a little spooky.
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  #45  
Old 11-22-2010
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Originally Posted by RangerAnger View Post
But if you down shift too much on slippery ice and snow it can cause the rear end to breake loose with the engine brake and thak could be a little spooky.
The brakes will do the same exact thing except make it even worse.
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  #46  
Old 11-22-2010
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But if you down shift too much on slippery ice and snow it can cause the rear end to breake loose with the engine brake and thak could be a little spooky.
Yeah... but i still prefer using the engine to stop on slick snow, than using the brakes, which mine that lock up easily.
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  #47  
Old 11-22-2010
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I have been down shifting since I started driving my manual Ranger. Which is my first car and the truck I learned how to drive manual in. I'll admit I get sloppy and downshift just to slow down. So I might be cruising at 45 in 5th and drop it into 3rd without even braking or coasting first and jump the RPMs to 3k. When I REALLY have a long distance to brake in I coast it out for a 1/4 miles and downshift at the correct RPMs. I RARELY do this. I could probably clutch match or whatever its called so the RPM jump from cruising in 5th at 1800 to 3rd at 3000 wasn't as hard on the engine but my 2.5Ls days are numbered anyway so whatever.
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  #48  
Old 11-24-2010
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I shift around 2500-3000 rpm. When in 1st and Im at a stop, the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor. After I start the next shifts, up shifting and down shifting, I push in the clutch pedal just enough to disengage(im guessing 1/8th to a 1/4 of the way), never all the way to the floor. This really made my shifts smooth.
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  #49  
Old 12-03-2010
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i shift that way also. in an older Volkswagen i had a buddy ask if i was pushing the clutch in shifting from 4th to 5th.
i'll also sit with my foot on the clutch and in first at a light depending if it's a long light or a short one.
depending on how much stopping distance there is i'll downshift or use a combo of downshift and braking.

btw, this thread was a couple years old i hope that the OP got the hang of shifting by now.
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