Going from 33's to 35's.. gearing? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 04-17-2010
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Going from 33's to 35's.. gearing?

Lifting my truck more soon, but i was thinkign 33's would look pretty silly so i was gunna throw on 35's. My question is how would the stock 4.10's hold up, would it be pretty harsh on the tranny? ALso curious if i did go to the 4.56's i need to do both front and back right? and will this help me in any way?

Just wondering bout the pros and cons to each im pretty new to drivetrain crap.
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Old 04-17-2010
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im curious about this as well.
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Old 04-17-2010
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its slow as *****. on the highway youre fine and starting off on level surfaces or a downhill slope is okay. but starting uphill its very slow. probably pretty rough on the tranny too.
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Old 04-17-2010
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Yes you would need to change both front and rear, unless you don't plan on ever putting your truck in 4wd again! lol
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Old 04-17-2010
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So are you going to have both a suspension lift and body lift? Yes, you will need to re-gear both differentials. I would go with 4.88's unless you plan to go back down in tire size in the future.
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Old 04-17-2010
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ty i thought u had 3.73's?
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Old 04-17-2010
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Ryan....

It's 'okay'. At least you've got 4.10's already. Definately not good, yet definately not bad. ALOT of folks run 4.10's and 35's.....I honestly hate it. You'll be ALOT happier if you were to gear it. And just as I say to almost anyone considering 35's: once you start getting into 35's, you really should consider swapping the gearing.
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Old 04-17-2010
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I didn't like 4.10s and 33s. It was okay but not ideal. I liked 4.88s with 33s and would ABSOLUTELY go with 4.88s for 35s, it would be perfect.

Yes you need front and back.
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Old 04-17-2010
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thanks guys next question i have is the cost? what do 2 sets of gear and labour usually cost
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Old 04-17-2010
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You are looking at about $525 US for the gears and install kits. The labor cost is usually the most expensive part. I can't comment on the cost though as I always do it myself.
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Old 04-18-2010
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Prices vary.....when I was calling around, I was quoted $900-1500 US at shops....drive in, drive out. Meaning you literally drive it in, then drive it home.

But the guy I found literally a mile from the house charged $150 labor for loose axles. Got my Yukons online for less than $400, bringing my gear swap to $700. He evidently likes me or soemthing because a buddy of mine did the same thing and he was charged 800. lol.

You've got Randy's Ring and Pinion in Everett? I htink? LiftKitRanger up there in abouts Seattle had his done there and it ran him about $1200. Might give them a ring or see if North Shore does gears.

I've offered it to Jesse....you give me your truck for a week and about $800 American, I'll get your gears done, DD it to break 'em in, and they'll be save to make the 4hr trek.
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Old 04-18-2010
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I just put on 33s and the 4.10 gearing $ucks.
4.30s should be minimum for 33s, 4.56s minimum for 35.
If you started with 31” tires and go to 35” tire the ratio of change is 1.13.
Multiply this time 4.10 and get something like 4.63.
The choices according to the math are 1) 4.56s will be good for DD and 2) 4.88s for Off-Roading.

Since you have 33s then the ratio is less, 1.06 x 4.10 = 4.34.
If you want to keep the 33”/4,10 performance then 4.30 would be OK but if you want a little more kick in the pant feel then 4.56 or 4.88 are order.
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Old 04-18-2010
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Alright thanks, i personally dont seem to mind my 4.10's with my 33's.. i still killed my buddys stock dakota with a 4.7L V8 in it lol but then again i didnt buy this truck to race. If i gear differently will that help with gas mileage too? mine dropped significantly after the lift and 33's were on. But yes im looking to do 35's so im looking for the best gear set for those. so 4.88s would be golden? i do more daily driving than offroading (mostly only weekends i take the truck in the bush) so i need something that will help with gas mileage.
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Old 04-18-2010
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Yes re-gearing will help the gas milage some, but the biggest thing is in the feel of the truck it will feel like a new truck. You have to remember that the added weight of the 35s will take away some gas milage so everything put together you should come back close to OEM with the 4.56/35.
IF you do mostly DD and IF you don’t mind the 33/4.10 gearing setup, then the 4.56’s will probably do. 4.88 for more kick in the pants feel.
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Old 04-18-2010
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You should gear LOWER than stock with bigger tires to help with the extra weight, resistance and rolling mass which is why we are saying 4.88s, it will be perfect for a daily driver on 35s.
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Old 04-18-2010
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If I ever went to 35's, I would undoubtedly go to 4.88's. For you since you have a 4.0L a minimum of 4.56.

4.88 all the way man!
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Old 04-18-2010
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will do. thanks guys!
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Old 04-19-2010
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but if you go to 4.88s wont you need to buy a new differential...I thought the stock torsen can only go to 4.56
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Old 04-19-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLC View Post
So are you going to have both a suspension lift and body lift? Yes, you will need to re-gear both differentials. I would go with 4.88's unless you plan to go back down in tire size in the future.
I dont see why everyone is saying go with 4.88's. I had 4.56's with my 35's and It felt exactly like it did stock. Gas mileage was almost the same, and speedo wasnt off but by 3mph..
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Old 04-19-2010
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Why spend a ton of money to re-gear and make it feel like stock again? That is why.
I don't see any reason spending that kind of money and not ending up with lower gearing advantage for off roading, towing, etc.
Also keep in mind that you had a 4.0L OHV which is entirely different than the newer SOHC 4.0L. The SOHC needs higher RPMs than the OHV to work well.
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Old 04-19-2010
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Originally Posted by mmmtof View Post
but if you go to 4.88s wont you need to buy a new differential...I thought the stock torsen can only go to 4.56

whats the answer to this question lol i dont wanan buy the wrong gears. i have a 2008 FX4 and i believe the diff tag read 4.10's.. so will the 4.88s work or what
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Old 04-19-2010
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4.88 without a doubt. i wouldn't have believed it, until i actually listened to the guys on here who run 35s with 4.88. I went with 4.88's front and rear and it's the best thing i have done for my pickup, it's awesome both on and off road.
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Old 04-19-2010
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I never had a chance to see what 4.10's felt like on a 4.0 automatic with 35's. Mine had 3.73's in it, and it was slower than a sack of ***
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Old 04-19-2010
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A standard FX4 shouldn't have a torsen limited slip, only a level 2.

But if you had a level 2 with a 31 spline rear axle and torsen limited slip you won't fit 4.88 gears due to the ring gear width. Again, only a problem IF you have a torsen.
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Old 04-19-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmmtof View Post
but if you go to 4.88s wont you need to buy a new differential...I thought the stock torsen can only go to 4.56
AH-HA! This is true! I totally forgot.


YUP! You'll need a new carrier because the center block that keeps the axle shafts pushed outward requires WAYYYY too much grinding of the 4.88 ring gear. You'll have like 6-7 teeth ground down like 50% and into the mesh pattern. aka...not acceptable grinding. I have personal experience with this....as it's the only reason I have an Aussie in the truck now(open carrier).
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