Holy $hit, I broke a Lock-Right in less than 2 days!?!?! - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 08-12-2006
Vee6 3.0's Avatar
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Finally....

I finally got some pics...

All this came out when the cover was removed.
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Here you can see the 2 peices of the cross shaft jammed in either end of the carrier.
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Here is one side bolted in, it still wouldn't budge after the bolt was removed...
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There is the other side of the carrier (bent), and one olf the broken ring teeth
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1/3rd of the cross shaft (1)
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1/3rd of the cross shaft (2)


I'm still unable to remove the c-clips or anything else for that matter, anybody got any ideas?

P.S.- The rust in the pics is from the axle sitting out in the rain all night, it was not there during the carnage, so that had nothing to do with the damage.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2006
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you ahve to get the crosspin pieces out obviously, grab a BIG hammer and a punch or rod of some sort and just try and wail those suckers out. once the crosspin is out you can remove the locker and such as usual.
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  #28  
Old 08-13-2006
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does this mean that they are crappy products?
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  #29  
Old 08-13-2006
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I think I just got a dud... honestly, outside of the actual cross shaft, the locker is completely undamaged.
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  #30  
Old 08-13-2006
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daYam... them 3-oh's are monsters. I might just dyno my truck now..

hope your next one isn't a dud.
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  #31  
Old 08-15-2006
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yea, powertrax does make a very good product and they stand up to much more abuse than a 3.0 can give out, it must have just been a poor crosspin. They survive behind many V8 fullsize vehicles, but all the driveforce is run through the crosspin so a good hardened crosspin is needed with them.
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  #32  
Old 08-20-2006
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yes this happened to me but sort of different

i used the stock crosspin beacuse the one that came with the locker would not go in (it had clearance from the gears, it was just something else stopping it). The destruction happened sort of slowly. When i first noticed it, i felt like the transmision was slipping and then slamming into gear. It got worse and worse until driving it could give you whiplash. I took out the locker to find that the teeth on the couplers and drivers were all chewed up and the crosspin was gouged. It was not broken though.
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  #33  
Old 08-23-2006
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its stuck

ok... I've got to find another way to open this up. The two peices of the shaft are in the carrier holding everything together, and I can't hammer them out with anything I have around here. Any other ideas...
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  #34  
Old 08-23-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TireIron
But I'm not very nice to my truck and the way I drive it, seeing as I follow the 4x4 guys with my little 2wd and impress them quite often.
I'll vouch for that..
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  #35  
Old 08-25-2006
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does the innards and axle shafts spin inside of (and independant of) the carrier? as in the crosspin is completely seperated from the carrier?


I'm determined to help you get this thing out hehehe.
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  #36  
Old 08-26-2006
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nope, if you look at the pictures again you can see that 1 peice of the shaft is stuck in each end of the carrier. One side of the carrier is bent so I think I'm really screwed.
I thought about drilling the shaft peices out, but I don't know if Richmond would exchange a hand full of metal savings for a new cross pin shaft.
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  #37  
Old 08-29-2006
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ok, well seeing as the carrier is completely FUBAR I would suggest get a 4.5inch grinder and a few metal cutoff wheels and actually cut the carrier side where the pin is, cut down to the pin and then cut from the other side up to the pin, then you should be able to spread the carrier apart some especially if you have done it to both sides, this should give you enough play to be able to get the parts out if you have the carrier caps unbolted. and a word of advice if you unbolt the caps, mark then for their sides and orientation as they are machined spefically to be exactly where and how they are in the housing and cannot be swapped around. so the one on the right needs to go back in on the right with the correct part up and down. it may take a while and a few cut off wheels but you should be able to cut through the carrier on both sides where the pin is and it should give you enough flex to hopefully get the parts out. id say you may also want to keep a hose close to you because there will be LOTS of sparks and i dont know how the gear oil will react to the sparks...
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