I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder today and it's all connected correctly... I bled the lines from the bleeder valve on the drivers side of the clutch case.. I opened it, had somone push the pedal to the floor, closed the valve, then had them release the pedal.. Fluid is shooting out each time and the level has never dropped below the half point in the resavoir(sp).. the pedal builds to about half the pressure it used to have during this process, but as soon as I go to crank it over and put it in gear, NO PRESSURE, it won't even try to go into gear.. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

open the bleeder w/o pressing the pedal down. let it gravity bleed. then do the pedal down again, holding it there, open the bleeder and fluid will squirt. watch your eyes. gravity bleed again.

now go back into the truck and push the pedal. it may be somewhat soft at first, but will eventually self bleed itself as designed(but poorly). Or to accelerate this, pump the pedal several times like crazy. Had to do that to two of my buddy's totally dry systems(auto to manual swaps)

If that fails and never gets better, start considering replcing that slave cylinder.

 

Another think you can try and do is with the bleeder closed push the pedal to the floor hold it there for a few seconds then let it go real quick so it springs back hopefully quickly. Do this several times and usually you can see bubbles come up into the reservoir as they are purged from the lines.

 

It seems to be a little better, still takes about 3-4 inches before feeling any resistance and still not much resistance at that, but atleast it's dis-engaging the clutch now (barely).. I'll keep messing with it.. I was hoping the one I installed wasn't a POS.. thanks for the help.

 

i use one of em little vac pumps to blead mine i never have to touch the pedal

 

another thing you can do is pull the master off the fire wall while still connected to everything. turn it upside down and pump while upside down because with they angle it's at on the fire wall and the way the hoses connect to it at can trap air at the very top. i did it like that and it helped alot.

 

I'll try that, nothing else has worked so far, and I figure it has to be something with the new cylinder, cause everything worked fine before it was replaced and the only reason I changed it was because it had a small leak. Thanks for the info.. that makes sense, because it's squirting fluid at the bottom so i figured there had to be trapped air somwhere at the top.

 

Bobo, that was it... took it out turned it upside-down, pushed the rod in, instant bubbles came up.. Installed it again, works perfect.. thanks man

 

no problem man im glad it worked out for you!

 

where do I connect the vac pump? I have the pleasure of replacing my master cylinder in the morning.

 

The vacuum pump is connected to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder down where it pokes out of the transmission bell housing.

Normally the MC and line are pre-blead before installation, so one simply gravity bleeds the system with out the use of a vac pump.
it should still work though.