Narrowing a D44 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 05-18-2007
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Narrowing a D44

Anyone have any advice? I'm thinking I might try this with my fullsize D44 for the zuk. I'd like to take it down to about wagoneer width. Does anyone know where I can find the lengths of the short side and long side of a wagoneer front axle?
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Old 05-18-2007
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google it ****! Or pirate4x4 it!
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Old 05-18-2007
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just make sure the cuts are straight and you get a good welder..

we narrowed a 9" took it to a welding shop they had jigs made and stuff so it wouldnt get out of square and junk
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Old 05-18-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
google it ****! Or pirate4x4 it!
Finding something so generic on Pirate is like searching for a needle in a haystack. I've googled and I still am. I know some people here have done/researched the same stuff, so I'm just seeing if anyone else has any info. And, with the axle 200 miles away, it's hard to take any measurements myself.
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Old 05-19-2007
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I will do it for you!!!
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Old 05-19-2007
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You'll have to get custom shafts made and if you do, then you'll have to run chromo's because if you ever break one, you're ****ed! I say keep it like it is, and that way you can buy up some spares and maybe even a set of chromo's.
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Old 05-19-2007
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Well if I'm gonna buy custom shafts I might as well get chromo's. I know 37s or 38s would be about as large a tire as I could go with the stock 44 anyways. I've done some reading and it looks like I could narrow it to the dimensions of a waggy D44 and use waggy inners, but I'd likely have to cut the short and long side. Guess I've got some more looking around at my options to do.
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Old 05-19-2007
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Kyle, this is what I did when I narrowed a HP D44 to Wagoneer width. I used the chart off the Warn website to get the inner axle lengths,

http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/inner_axle_app.shtml

then I ground down the welds around each of the inner knuckles(c's) and beat them off with a small sledge hammer. Then you either need a band saw or a good quality chop saw to cut the right amount from each axle tube. To determine what amount to cut off simply subtract the length of the shaft that you will be using from the length of the inner axle shaft which came with the axle. After the cut has been made beat the inner c's back onto the tubes and use an angle finder, (I bought mine at Home Depot for $10), to set the caster to whatever you need it to be. Make sure that the camber is also correct. Once all adjustments have been made weld the knuckles back onto the tubes. You'll either need an arc welder or a larger mig to make the welds because of the thickness of the axle tube. After that just rebuild the axle using whatever outers you wish. Hope that helps. Also, there's several write ups that can be found on the web that have some pictures and whatnot that may be helpful.
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Old 05-19-2007
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Thanks Deryck! I've found a few write=ups, but I can't seem to find any good information regarding what good caster/camber/pinion angles would be good? Some have said 0 degrees, and some have said as high as 7 degrees. What do you think?
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Old 05-20-2007
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I would wait and set the axle up specifically for the vehicle that it's going under.
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Old 05-20-2007
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why not just stay full width?
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Old 05-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger
why not just stay full width?

suki with full width? thats way to big
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Old 05-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger
why not just stay full width?
It has been done before, but the full size rear axle I have is broken and it'd likely be cheaper to replace it with something else than to fix it and then build it. And, it'd likely be pretty tough finding a reasonably sized trailer to pull the zuk on with full size axles behind the Ranger. Smaller axles means tighter turning and easier trailering in this case.
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Old 05-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zainyD
I would wait and set the axle up specifically for the vehicle that it's going under.
Is there a good way to determine how they should be set up once I do get it under the zuk? I've asked around and different people are using different numbers even between seperate zuks. Or maybe I should just try to imitate as closely as I can what is already on the zuk?
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Old 05-21-2007
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What I would do is this; narrow the axle, but leave the inner knuckles off. Get your front suspension set up how you like it and slide the axle under the Zuk. Once you get your pinion angle set put the inner knuckles on and set the caster. Depending on what tire size you want to run I would set the caster between 3-7*. I am running about 5.5* of caster with 35's and it's just about right. I could have a bit less and it wouldn't hurt me. You'll want to set your camber for 0* or maybe just a tiny bit positive.
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Old 05-21-2007
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Perfect. Thank you much sir! I'll likely be going with 36s or 37s. So I would want somewhere closer to 7* of caster, right?
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Old 05-22-2007
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Ya, that would probably be OK. If it was me I'd set it between 5-7*. How much street time is this going to have.
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Old 05-22-2007
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positive caster when the upper balljoint is further forward or behind the lower balljoint?
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Old 05-22-2007
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IIRC positive caster is the upper BJ ahead of the lower BJ, negative caster is what you want
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Old 05-22-2007
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But Deryck is talking about positive caster? correct?
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Old 05-22-2007
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Good point I hadn't even thought about positive or negative.

I don't know what sort of street time the zuk will see. If gas gets any worse I may keep it as an in-town ride because that little 4 cyl really sips on the gas. Either way, it'll be flat-towed atleast for awhile.
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Old 05-22-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gay-briel
suki with full width? thats way to big
wider is better. ok, well maybe its not a pontiac.


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