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Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 09-16-2009
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No Reverse..Everything else is fine?

Hey guys..its been awhile. I have been busy working and going to school and giving my truck TLC...then this problem came along a few days ago...

My truck has always clunked when going into reverse. Nothing bad just basically sounded like the gear engaging. Well yesterday when it clunked it was no normal clunk. It clunked much louder and then the truck would go no faster in reverse than idle speed. I check the fluid of course and it was fine. I then shut the truck off and started it back and tried it and it seemed to be fine.

Well today when I went to go in reverse...nothing. No clunk..no engagement..no nothing. It basically acts as if it has an extra neutral.

I have been trying to research and find some stuff and I am finding a lot about valve body issues? I am not even sure which trans I have : (

Its a 2000 Auto 4.0L 4x4 XLT. It also has the 4:10 w/ limited slip if that matters.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!
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Old 09-17-2009
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One of the veterans on here posted a procedure for adjusting the bands in the tranny about a year ago. May take a while to search for it.




Found it !!

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...wonderful.html

Hope that helps.
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Old 09-17-2009
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Thank you Ken!

Do ya'll think that could be the problem? It seems like it is an internal problem but I'm really not sure and I don't it to be something simple and I take it somewhere and get ripped off.
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Old 09-17-2009
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maybe the low/reverse seal went? if so you would need to drop the pan and replace a 4$ seal.
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Old 09-17-2009
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You're probably going to have to tear into it a bit to figure this out. So either get a Haynes manual and some tools and prepare to get your keyboard greasy, getting help here... Or find a buddy that knows his stuff and get him to help... Or pay a mechanic to do it right. It could be something simple, and I would bet it is, if you didn't hear and grinding or see metal in the oil, its probably the seal zack said.
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
maybe the low/reverse seal went? if so you would need to drop the pan and replace a 4$ seal.
I was hoping you would chime in Zach..thanks! This is something I could see from just dropping the pan? I would surely love that..lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by ns_red7 View Post
You're probably going to have to tear into it a bit to figure this out. So either get a Haynes manual and some tools and prepare to get your keyboard greasy, getting help here... Or find a buddy that knows his stuff and get him to help... Or pay a mechanic to do it right. It could be something simple, and I would bet it is, if you didn't hear and grinding or see metal in the oil, its probably the seal zack said.
Ya this will be my only place to get help from lol. I wish I had the confidance to tear into my tranny but I def. don't. I am willing to drop the pan and check it out..just need to know what to look for. There was no real grinding..just that dern clunk. Would the seal be easy to see?
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Old 09-20-2009
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yes... let me find a pic on how to replace it.
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  #8  
Old 09-20-2009
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doesn't reverse and first gear use the same bands?
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  #9  
Old 09-27-2009
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Just wanted to update ya'll:
I think that my low/reverse band is broken. I believe that is what the noise was when it clunked and I also found yesterday that I have no engine braking in low. Def. not what I was hoping to find out. Transmission place told me 1500-1800 for a rebuild.
And I baby the heck out of my truck!!! Thats what sucks lol.
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Old 09-27-2009
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did you even drop the pan?
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  #11  
Old 09-28-2009
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no I haven't but I still plan to. did you ever happen to find a picture of that seal? I surely am not blindly going to pay that kind of money without at least checkin it out.
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Old 09-28-2009
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auto + 35's + 4.10s + miles = wearage!


sucks bro.
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Old 09-28-2009
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here is what it looks like when you drop the pan

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After you pull it out
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Both seals that need replaced
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Old 09-28-2009
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how do you get it out beard have to drop the valve body?

might explain why mine is shuttering in rev
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Old 09-28-2009
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no your just grab those ridges in the first picture with some pliers and pull it out. Mine looses low and reverse when it gets hot and its because that seal fails. They make some double lip seals which work awesome but dont hold up as long. Dealer costs is like 6 bucks on the seals.

no need to remove the valvebody, maybe just the filter if it is in the way.
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Old 09-28-2009
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no crap, sweet gonna do these next filter change here in a month
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  #17  
Old 09-28-2009
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its pretty easy besides dropping the pan and the oily mess.
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2009
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Well hot dern look whos back!! haha I have been unbelievably busy lately..but now with this picture I'm gonna try this! It surely can't hurt thats for sure. Its just funny..my truck will still go in reverse just fine and even try to roll backwards..it just doesn't seem to have enough pressure to go backwards. This may be my problem...:) Thanks for posting that picture zach!!
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  #19  
Old 02-02-2010
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Just wanted to give an update:

I changed out the seals in the pictures Zach posted above..
Just got the pan back on and the fluid filled.

..Still no reverse. Anyone have any ideas? I was really hoping this would work. I got my hopes up when I went to pull out the piece and it just dropped out...obviously showing the seals weren't' holding it in tight. It was tight when I put it back in with the new seals but I just tried it and no luck.

Back to square one..
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  #20  
Old 12-09-2010
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vansnxtweek - did you ever find out what caused your reverse to go out? I had the exact same thing happen to me this morning...
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  #21  
Old 12-09-2010
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Hey man! Well it turns out I broke the reverse band and I destroyed the clutches as well as the sprag I believe. I had to end up getting the trans rebuilt and I got a new torque converter. I did pull out the trans myself which saved a lot.
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  #22  
Old 12-09-2010
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No Reverse

After reading about 50 pages of forum posts today regarding automatic transmissions I am confident I am experiencing the same mode of failure as your truck. It really surprised me because I have never had any problems with the transmission - it's always been smooth. No delayed drive, no 2-3 flare, and I've never seen the O/D light blink. I've had the slipyoke-clunk and I keep that at bay with lithium grease sprayed in the boot every few months and sealing it with a ziptie. I also have a driveline clink when changing between forward/reverse and reverse/forward - which after searching I found out to be a flawed output shaft design that doesn't damage the driveline but sounds annoying.

So, I think I am going to start out by dropping the drain pan and see if that low/reverse seals are blown. Is it possible to determine if the valve body separator gaskets are blown out by looking at it with the pan off?

Do you remember what you paid for the tranny rebuild, torque converter, reverse/first band, clutches, and sprag? I'll probably remove/install the tranny myself and have a shop do the rest as you did.

148,000 miles current
93,000 miles last transmission fluid change (previous owner)
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2010
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Well, what you say about having no previous issues is the same exact thing as me. The only factor I could see leaning towards it was that I have 35's on my truck. I know that someone made a thread up here about adjusting the bands which I believe could be a preventative measure. I think that the broken band is what started all of the mess for me but I'm really sure.

I did what you are planning to do and it was quite the pain, but it is definately worth a try. I dropped the pan, changed the low/reverse seals but there was no change. There was just a heck of a lot of damage done in there that called for a full rebuild. I only had about 110,000 miles on mine when it happened. And, as far as the valve body seperator gaskets, I couldn't tell ya, but I don't think so.

All the trans work I got done ran me around 1000 bucks. Taking it out myself saved a heck ton and it really wasn't all that bad...especially since I'm double lifted. Make sure you have one or two extra people! THe only issue you may run into is the exhaust getting in the way. This is where the body lift came in handy.

Good luck.
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2010
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Thanks for the help! Excuse my naivete, but what are 35's? What does double-lifted mean?

I read about the band adjustment, but I believe only the OD and intermediate bands are adjustable from outside the case and the reverse/low band is far inside the transmission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vansnxtweek View Post
There was just a heck of a lot of damage done in there that called for a full rebuild.
Did you see evidence of this damage when you first dropped the pan to change out the reverse/low seals? I'm wondering if I will cause more damage to the transmission if I continue to drive it or if it would be okay to drive in forward only for a week or so.
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  #25  
Old 12-10-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazing badger View Post
Thanks for the help! Excuse my naivete, but what are 35's? What does double-lifted mean?
35 are the size of tire, and double lifted means he has suspension and body lifts
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