No Reverse..Everything else is fine? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 12-10-2010
vansnxtweek's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 2,666
Thanks for the explanation Chris!

Man with all that damage I drove my truck for a year after I lost reverse. If its the same problem I had it just affects reverse. Another way to tell if you are having the same issue I was is to put it in Low gear and speed up to about 25 miles an hour and then let off and see if you have any engine braking (as you should) or if it just free coasts.

I could not see any damage when I dropped the pan, and the oil seemed normal as well as the filter. Everything was clean, but the problem obviously continued after I replaced the seals.

I was just saying I have 35" tires so that puts a bit more stress on the transmission than normal, and I have 7" of lift of on my truck so that makes it a bit easier to work on the under neath side of it.

Hope that helps.
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Old 01-09-2011
blazing badger's Avatar
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 14
Hey just posting an update to what happened with my transmission. The reverse band ($10.59) was snapped right at the point where the reverse servo piston hits it. Of course, to figure this out I had to remove and then disassemble the entire transmission. The rest of the trans was in great shape, including the reverse one way sprag. While I had it apart I also replaced the other two bands, frictions/steels, gaskets, and o-rings. I didn't touch the pump because I don't have the $300 alignment tool and I didn't touch the lip seals in the clutch packs because I don't have the seal protection tools. I also put in new servos and a new torque converter while I had it apart. For the valve body I did the Ford kit for the new separator plate with bonded gaskets and EPC blowoff valve, new EPC valve, and the Superior shift kit (minus the EPC wiring mod and thermo blocker). Everything turned out to cost around $600. Put the transmission in 2 days ago and it's running well so far. Thanks for the advice!

The only special tools I had to borrow were:
- 3 foot extension for top starter bolt and bell housing bolts
- transmission adapter for floor jack
- clutch pack compressor

Lessons learned
- had to bang on front drive shaft to get the cupped flange to pop out
- needed 3 foot extension with 13mm swivel to get to top starter bolt
- transmission would have been easier to remove/install with exhaust y-pipe removed, but two of my bolts wouldn't budge so I didn't remove it
- take vent tube off of top of trans before removal
- spray exhaust bolts with PB blaster multiple times before removing - I ended up cutting the 3-way cat nuts and studs off
- had to buy extension housing to transfer case gasket separately (~$5 from Ford)

Replaced in Transmission
- replaced friction plates and steels
- replaced overdrive, intermediate, and reverse bands
- replaced overdrive and intermediate servos, new spring from Superior kit, new o-rings on covers, and new adjuster locknuts
- replaced o-rings on 8 bell housing to trans case bolts, replaced gasket and rubber seal
- replaced split-ring seals on both bearing cage assemblies (two each assembly)
- replaced clutch pack springs with superior kit springs (twenty springs)
- replaced trans to extension housing gasket
- replaced extension housing to transfer case gasket
- replaced filter & pan gasket
- replaced torque converter with reman

Replaced in Valve Body
- removed epc screen, spring, and relief valve
- installed Ford epc blowoff valve
- installed Ford seperator plate with bonded gaskets
- replaced EPC valve
- replaced solenoid bracket with updated version
- replaced both o-rings on all four shift solenoids
- replaced reverse servo seal with double-lip seal from superior
- installed superior shift kit and drilled out two holes, but left out coolant bypass, epc wiring mod, and difficult mod
- replaced 4 check *****
- replaced extension housing lubrication orifice puck

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Old 01-10-2011
vansnxtweek's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 2,666
Nice job man!!! Surely glad to see you were able to get it done yourself!
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Old 09-21-2015
TJVJR's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Elizabethton TN
Posts: 13
Sorry to post on such a old(er) thread but; Is the 2.5 auto trans built similar to the ones described here ? I am having trouble with a 2000 2.5l auto 2wd, takes a while to go in reverse and hard shifts from 2nd to drive. I will continue to read through threads/posts but any info would be helpful .
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Old 09-22-2015
blazing badger's Avatar
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 14
Your trans should be very similar to the 5R55E that I rebuilt. What is the "Trans Code" listed on the sticker on the driver side door jamb? If your trans is shifting into reverse the reverse band is probably fine. Maybe the EPC solenoid is failing and it is taking a longer time than normal to build up pressure to actuate the reverse piston? Or maybe one of your other shift solenoids is failing. Or maybe the seperator gasket is blown and leaking pressure.

Do you have any other symptoms? Any error codes or lights? How many miles? Has the trans or valve body ever been rebuilt or worked on? Did you check the trans fluid level (on level ground with engine running)? What color is the trans fluid - light red or dark brown?

Ford Ranger Automatic Transmission Identification
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