Pilot bearing Help
#1
Pilot bearing Help
I have a 95 2wd with the 2.3 and 5 speed. I am putting in a new clutch and all components. I have a issue with the new pilot bearing. Please look at the picture. What am I missing here? Has the old bearing wore down to nothing? All I can see is a metal "sleeve" I do not see any bearings.There is supposed to be a bearing in there, right? I have also enclosed a pic of the bearing that came with the kit
#2
I always thought the pilot bearing was to keep the input shaft from going nuts and taking the clutch for a ride.
I would check for play in your input shaft on the trans.
Check to see if your new pilot bearing goes in without tapping it in or not. It should require a few taps. I use(d) a socket that goes on the edge so as not to tap the actual bearings.
Holy moly if it wore down to nothing. That means something else is afoot. I'm thinking the person who changed the clutch pieces before didn't have a new pilot bearing and didn't put it in.
Without that bearing, though, wouldn't the clutch be free to walk all over the flywheel and chatter, and trans will eventually fail?
Does anyone else have an idea? I'm kinda shocked.
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Look on the end of the input shaft, for the old pilot bearing
Hard to tell but the outer case of old pilot bearing may still be in the crank
Pictures here: https://www.therangerstation.com/how...g-replacement/
The pilot bearing is there to support the end of the input shaft, other end of the input shaft is supported by a bearing in the transmission
When you press in the clutch pedal the clutch disc is free to move around, is it is not a "support" for the shaft, and the input shaft must also be free to slow down to 0 RPMs so you can put transmission into 1st(or any other gear) when stopped.
Rear wheels are connected directly to transmission, so if rear wheels are at 0 RPMs, then transmission is at 0 RPM, engine is at say 700RPMs when idling, so to put transmission into 1st the input shaft must go down to 0 RPMs, the pilot bearing allows the crank and input shaft to spin at different RPMs as needed to shift gears, and it also supports the end of the shaft so it doesn't flop around when clutch pedal is down
Hard to tell but the outer case of old pilot bearing may still be in the crank
Pictures here: https://www.therangerstation.com/how...g-replacement/
The pilot bearing is there to support the end of the input shaft, other end of the input shaft is supported by a bearing in the transmission
When you press in the clutch pedal the clutch disc is free to move around, is it is not a "support" for the shaft, and the input shaft must also be free to slow down to 0 RPMs so you can put transmission into 1st(or any other gear) when stopped.
Rear wheels are connected directly to transmission, so if rear wheels are at 0 RPMs, then transmission is at 0 RPM, engine is at say 700RPMs when idling, so to put transmission into 1st the input shaft must go down to 0 RPMs, the pilot bearing allows the crank and input shaft to spin at different RPMs as needed to shift gears, and it also supports the end of the shaft so it doesn't flop around when clutch pedal is down
#5
Thanks for the help guys, after a little more reading and help from other sources, this may be a pilot "bushing" that is in there now? This is more of a question than a statement. The input shaft has a little play in it,maybe 1/8 or 3/16. Is this too much? Also, what are the orings and split pin in the second pic. used for that comes with the clutch kits? They were in a little pack with the new pilot bearing. If this a bushing, then I am thinking IF I can get it out, I will replace it with the new bearing. They both seem to have the same ID. Not sure about the OD until I can get it out.I need some comments from someone smarter than me. Did these trucks come with pilot "bushings"?? I am not sure if this is the original trans but it is the correct date engine.2.3(1995)
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes, bushings were/are available
Bearings are better to use, but pilot bushings are more forgiving than pilot bearings if bell housing is not perfectly aligned
The engine block will have at least two dowel pins, these are used to align bell housing/input shaft and engine/crank, so input shaft spins true, make sure dowels are in good condition and also the holes in the bellhousing they fit into
1/8-3/8 is not too much play with transmission removed, remember the shaft is supported by the pilot bearing, so there is no "play" once its installed
Not sure what the other parts are for, whats the kit's part number?
Maybe there were other applications
Bearings are better to use, but pilot bushings are more forgiving than pilot bearings if bell housing is not perfectly aligned
The engine block will have at least two dowel pins, these are used to align bell housing/input shaft and engine/crank, so input shaft spins true, make sure dowels are in good condition and also the holes in the bellhousing they fit into
1/8-3/8 is not too much play with transmission removed, remember the shaft is supported by the pilot bearing, so there is no "play" once its installed
Not sure what the other parts are for, whats the kit's part number?
Maybe there were other applications
#7
#8
Greetings: We have a terminology issue here. There is a pilot BUSHING in the end of the crankshaft, or there had better be!! There is a Flywheel pilot BEARING which is a roller bearing assy inside the bore of the flywheel, Both of these keep the input shaft of the transmission properly aligned, and helps to keep the clutch assy from spinning off center, and placing unwanted side load on the transmission input shaft which is hard on the transmission input bearing. If the Crankshaft pilot BUSHING had previously been ommited, or never installed, the Flywheel pilot BEARING would be carrying load it can not handle, and the rollers might self destruct. A new clutch assy probably has a new Flywheel pilot BEARING with it, but not a Crankshaft BUSHING. Unless the crankshaft bushing is actually missing, then it is not a big issue, the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft turn as one unit through the clutch when in gear, Stepping on the clutch pedal allows the crankshaft and the tranny input shaft to isolate so you can shift gears. I do not know at what stage you are at, however if you do indeed have the flywheel removed, spray the end of the crankshaft with cleaner, and confirm if indeed there is a BUSHING installed in the end bore of the crankshaft. Courierlenny
Last edited by Courierlenny; 12-22-2020 at 12:45 AM.
#9
Greetings: We have a terminology issue here. There is a pilot BUSHING in the end of the crankshaft, or there had better be!! There is a Flywheel pilot BEARING which is a roller bearing assy inside the bore of the flywheel, Both of these keep the input shaft of the transmission properly aligned, and helps to keep the clutch assy from spinning off center, and placing unwanted side load on the transmission input shaft which is hard on the transmission input bearing. If the Crankshaft pilot BUSHING had previously been ommited, or never installed, the Flywheel pilot BEARING would be carrying load it can not handle, and the rollers might self destruct. A new clutch assy probably has a new Flywheel pilot BEARING with it, but not a Crankshaft BUSHING. Unless the crankshaft bushing is actually missing, then it is not a big issue, the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft turn as one unit through the clutch when in gear, Stepping on the clutch pedal allows the crankshaft and the tranny input shaft to isolate so you can shift gears. I do not know at what stage you are at, however if you do indeed have the flywheel removed, spray the end of the crankshaft with cleaner, and confirm if indeed there is a BUSHING installed in the end bore of the crankshaft. Courierlenny
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