Rear diff rebuild
 

Ok so I got a trac-loc ls for my 28 spline axles, bought a complete rebuild kit including all bearings and seals, and have all fluids. I was planning on keeping the gears that are in there, they were replaced by Ford about 2 years ago. So basically I have everything and I'm ready to put it all in, basically rebuild the whole rear end. I have some leaking seals and figured I'd do it all while I have to open it. First off I've never done this before and dont know exactly know some of the details. I called some local places to price what it would cost just to put in the gears and carrier and set them correctly and they want like $350. I have a press, dial indicator, torque wrenches, etc. but no pinion depth tool. I'm just really nervous about doing this on my own because this is my daily driver, so I cant mess up. Can anyone offer me some words of wisdom? Or does any one out there live in NM that would be willing to help me out. I'm eager to learn how.

Its not that hard. Have confidence. From what you posted, you sound more then knowledgable to get it done ;)

Totally appreciate it. I can rebuild a motorcycle from top to bottom but I'm still learning trucks. I've been reading articles forever trying to learn everything for this. Figures, 10 mins after I post this I find just what I've been looking for. I think I can pull it off without any big problems unless I find something wrong when I pop the cover off. I'll post links to the articles that helped me the most. One more question, if there is nothing wrong with the pinion gear, bearings, or seal should I even take it out since I'm not changing gearsets? I was going to replace all the bearings and seals at once but should I even bother?

I followed the same path you are on with my '99. I recommend you have at the very least the Chiltons or Haynes manual for torque specs. Shouldn't have to reset pinion depth, assuming it was done correctly when your gears were swapped. I installed new bearings on the traction-loc and was able to reuse the exisiting shims. Here's a couple of hints.

Be sure to measure backlash before you remove the differential. You'll want to target this when you install the new diff.
Getting the old differential out requires some muscle. I used a slide hammer with a hook.

Here's a good link with great how to info.

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5o...5ohtech001.htm

Read the info from this link, get everything in order, and you should be set. Plan on the better part of the weekend. Hope this helps.

Honestly.. If you have ' some miles ' on the parts, and its all torn down anyway.. why not? I mean.. Thats my philosophy, might as well do the whole thing instead of doing half the job. You don't ' need ' to but is the ' piece of mind ' worth it? For myself, it is. Others, never.

First buy a manual that has the info to set up a rear end. It's not hard but you have to do it right.

To get the gear mesh pattern right you have to set the pinion and the ring gear so the tooth contact is in the right spot on the gears. Then you have to set the backlash.

You have to shim the pinion back and forth to get the contact area where you want it and move the ring gear assy side to side to get the right contact spot and gear lash.

read a manual with gear set ups. You can do it, just don't get in a rush and be sure it's right.

while seting up a rear end is not my favorite thing I do it and haven't lost one yet. Just be patient and if you get upset leave it and come back later. Do it on a week end, not at the end of a work day.

One word of caution, many rear ends have a crush sleeve on the pinion between the bearings and when you torque the pinion to spec's the sleeve can't be used again. For that reason get two sleeves and use one of them to set the gears up and when you have the gears in correct mesh and backlash set then remove the used sleeve and put the new one in and torque to spec's.

Check the backlash as that may change but the pinion location will not change enough to matter if at all.

Plan your work and know what is going on. Don't assume anything.

Found everything info wise, and already have a manual. I figure always buy a manual first thing when you get a different vehicle, chances are you're going to work on it some time. Just waiting on an inch-pound torque wrench to measure bearing preload, friend is getting it for me. Thanks again for the confidence boosters. Must agree with D, might as well put in all new parts while I'm in there and have them already. I now know everything I feel i need to at this point. I found this site rather helpful, but will use multiple resources.

http://www.superstallions.com/tech/d...ars/gears.html

Thanks guys!

I'll let you in a little secret, you can't set it up wrong and put it in your truck. You make sure that the gear pattern is right before you put it in so you don't go out and start using it to find it just exploded on you. I have all the stuff to do a gear swap but I'm waiting on my magnetic base. So far i've found that bearings don't like to come off. What a huge pain I have to tell yo.

If someone isnt smart enough to check the gear pattern before reassembly and driving, they have no business touching gears. Just my opinion. Thanks again for the info.

DaGGer, I know you are talking about a removeable third member or pumkin as they are called but most the Rangers have removeable gears only and you have to set the wear pattern and backlash with the gears in the banjo housing.

I'm not sure which Fords use the third member rear end now but I guess that most of the rear ends have removeable gears only and have to be set up in the truck or car.

I'm thinking I screwed up with the L/S i got. I dont think its compatible with the ABS/VSS tone ring that is supposed to mount to the carrier. I've been trying to find pictures of the tone ring and/or how it mounts. If I understand it right, the tone ring mounts on the gear side of the carrier into grooves to that it doesnt space out the ring gear. Mine doesnt have any grooves... Guess I shouldve done more homework before spending the money.

If you have the 8.8 and you're changing only the carrier and not the ring and pinion itself you're in the best situation.

First, your pinion depth is already set. Dont' bother to remove the pinion.

When you put the new carrier back in with your original ring gear, you need only set the lash. Pretty easy on an 8.8 since you don't have to put shims under the bearings. They go between the race and the housing.

It'll be a piece of cake overall. If you change gearing that's when it becomes a chore. Carrier replacement is gravy. I've done both.