T5 for a 4.0 SOHC
#1
T5 for a 4.0 SOHC
Guys, I have searched for this and haven't found much. I want to do this, I tow allot and I hate my trans, but I love having a stick so I don't want to convert to an auto. I need a trans. with a better clutch, stronger gears and a slave that doesn't go every frickin year.......
So, what do I need? A special clutch or will a mustang one work? What about the slave and master? Will the hole in the floor line up? Do I need a new or custom drive shaft? In the next month or two this will be reality so I really need to cover my bases.
Thanks,
Chris
So, what do I need? A special clutch or will a mustang one work? What about the slave and master? Will the hole in the floor line up? Do I need a new or custom drive shaft? In the next month or two this will be reality so I really need to cover my bases.
Thanks,
Chris
#5
#6
#7
Originally Posted by graygooseranger
I don't have 4wd, so this is totally doable???
Also, I tried looking for that name and can't find it, is that how he spells it?
Also, I tried looking for that name and can't find it, is that how he spells it?
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/member.php?u=509
#8
#15
#17
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Heres what My swap used.
Bellhousing was from a 2.8v6 mustang ( 1988-1989 modle ) . The starter is on the drivers side so re-locating it wasnt a problem. 5 of the 6 bellhousing holes fit perfectly, one was off about 1/16th of an inch. The Bellhousing I used is aluminum so filling/mig-ing it in and redrilling wasn't a problem ( I have all 6 bolts in as of present ).
I used a ' short throw ' shifter ( pro-5.0 ). RedneckStone or anyone else that has driven my truck can say I relocated the shifter itself closer to the driver and in first gear, it sits against my leg ( right where I want it ) .
I did have to cut the floorboard 2 inches. It was NOT because of the shifter itself, but because of the mounting system I used ( at that time ).
The new 4.0 styangs have a T5 in them. This change could be done with all factory parts and a shaft cut/balance at a local shop for 50$ ( or whatever they charge in your area, locally for me its 50$ ).
My clutch is cable driven with a Quadrent adjuster from a regular Fox mustang. It required a VERY SMALL mig spot which I drilled/tapped into ( I could have just used self tapping screws.. but wanted something beefy ).
I run Juice at times and the tranny has held up fine. I DID crack the case on my first T5 and switched to a Wolrd-class model afterwards. I use a 10.5inch HD clutch/pressureplate and throwout. The front is a 10spline shaft and the first gear is set to 2.97.
The reason I went this route.. I had the tranny here ( I have a Liberty 5-speed thats starting to look very juicy right now ) , My factory tranny sorta.. ' broke ' and ford was NOT replacing it under warrenty. It wasn;t ' just the slave cylinder ', it was the main shaft being bent, a chunk of the bellhousing missing where the clutch sorta came ' un-attached '.. *I* wasted it. 550lbft.. my ****. These trannies are made in France and give up easily.
This SHOULD be a very easy swap for ya as the new mustangs are a nice ' parts-bin '
Bellhousing was from a 2.8v6 mustang ( 1988-1989 modle ) . The starter is on the drivers side so re-locating it wasnt a problem. 5 of the 6 bellhousing holes fit perfectly, one was off about 1/16th of an inch. The Bellhousing I used is aluminum so filling/mig-ing it in and redrilling wasn't a problem ( I have all 6 bolts in as of present ).
I used a ' short throw ' shifter ( pro-5.0 ). RedneckStone or anyone else that has driven my truck can say I relocated the shifter itself closer to the driver and in first gear, it sits against my leg ( right where I want it ) .
I did have to cut the floorboard 2 inches. It was NOT because of the shifter itself, but because of the mounting system I used ( at that time ).
The new 4.0 styangs have a T5 in them. This change could be done with all factory parts and a shaft cut/balance at a local shop for 50$ ( or whatever they charge in your area, locally for me its 50$ ).
My clutch is cable driven with a Quadrent adjuster from a regular Fox mustang. It required a VERY SMALL mig spot which I drilled/tapped into ( I could have just used self tapping screws.. but wanted something beefy ).
I run Juice at times and the tranny has held up fine. I DID crack the case on my first T5 and switched to a Wolrd-class model afterwards. I use a 10.5inch HD clutch/pressureplate and throwout. The front is a 10spline shaft and the first gear is set to 2.97.
The reason I went this route.. I had the tranny here ( I have a Liberty 5-speed thats starting to look very juicy right now ) , My factory tranny sorta.. ' broke ' and ford was NOT replacing it under warrenty. It wasn;t ' just the slave cylinder ', it was the main shaft being bent, a chunk of the bellhousing missing where the clutch sorta came ' un-attached '.. *I* wasted it. 550lbft.. my ****. These trannies are made in France and give up easily.
This SHOULD be a very easy swap for ya as the new mustangs are a nice ' parts-bin '
#19
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
If it's a parts-bin swap. I might look into it. How much does the 2wd tailshaft of a T5 differ from the tailshaft of my transmission? (2003 FX4 LII?)
#20
Now what about the drive shaft? Also, don't our trucks come factory with 3.40 first gear? If thats the case, can I just put a 4.10 in the rear to make up the difference in gear loss? You are saying as well that I DO NOT have to cut the floor? will the trans drop right into the crossmember mounting spot for the factory trans? I work for a pretty big Machine shop in southeast Michigan so have the shaft machined as mentioned above is not a problem. As far as 10.5 in clutch, we have a 10 1/8 factory, correct? Anything need to be done for my fly wheel to accept this new bigger clutch? Sorry for all the questions but I really hate my factory trans so if this proves to be pretty easy, I will be doing this in the spring and start buying parts soon.
Thanks allot,
Chirs
Thanks allot,
Chirs
#21
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by graygooseranger
Now what about the drive shaft? Also, don't our trucks come factory with 3.40 first gear? If thats the case, can I just put a 4.10 in the rear to make up the difference in gear loss?
You are saying as well that I DO NOT have to cut the floor?
will the trans drop right into the crossmember mounting spot for the factory trans?
I work for a pretty big Machine shop in southeast Michigan so have the shaft machined as mentioned above is not a problem.
As far as 10.5 in clutch, we have a 10 1/8 factory, correct? Anything need to be done for my fly wheel to accept this new bigger clutch? Sorry for all the questions but I really hate my factory trans so if this proves to be pretty easy, I will be doing this in the spring and start buying parts soon.
This should be an EASY swap . The only items I can see needing a lot of attention on your part would be the crossmember and shifter. Everythingn else should be from the ' parts bin '. Clutch, flywheel, pressureplate, throwout berring..
What REALLY screwed with a LOT of us that went after things ' early on ' .. superchargers, T5's, performance parts.. we all had to come up with inovative ideas.. now that the mustang has OUR engine, the parts-bin support element is there and BETTER Then what we all rigged-up in the early years.
IF my clutch gives before Im ready to do my project, I'm buying a factory flywheel and clutch. It *should* bolt right in. I believe part of my issues with going through 2 clutches a year is a few thousandths ' off center ' from my flywheel bolt pattern.
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