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SAS and what about it?

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Old 03-25-2006
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SAS and what about it?

So I found out what it means, but what does it do? What are the good thing about doing this? Also does anyone have pics of what this looks like?
If it is a really good thing how much does one of these cost?

When I do get a truck I want to lift it 3inchs and get some good bfg tires! What kind of suspension should I get? Ive heard that rancho shocks are good, are they?
Sorry for all the Q's!
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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dude, 034x4 has a 50 page write-up on his SAS build up, all your requested info is in there.

I'm not sure how often you are active, but this has been an active topic for the last 6 months. it's loaded with pictures and explanations. 50 pages is alot of reading but it would be criminal to condense it to a simple answer for you.

if you are having problems finding it, its because its a suspension thread not drive train.

SAS build up thread
 

Last edited by KARPE; 03-25-2006 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 03-25-2006
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So would I just look up his name and then search for all of his threads he started?
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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exactly!!! but here...im bored..and did it for you...
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=8030
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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edited first post,

for future reference there is a tool at the top of the page , Search button. if you type in SAS or Solid Axle Swap, it will bring up every thread that has those words in it for your convenience.

I'll tell you this, without at least 6-7G's and extensive fabbing skills and tools at your fingertips this is far out of reach.
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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Originally Posted by KARPE
without at least 6-7G's and extensive fabbing skills and tools at your fingertips this is far out of reach.

Preach it brother man
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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yes totaly not a bolt on kit....
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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If you have no idea what a SAS is, then you really have no reason attempting it unless you have alot of money to shell out for someone to do it for you.

Not to sound brash, but its the truth.
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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its the small lil stuff that kicks your butt, you forget about them and when it comes to do it you dont have it have to order it kick out cash and dnt know what your doing..then mess something up....
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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I hear ya on that! I tryed taking my audio and front console apart in my car and once I had put it back together I still had three screws left!! Oops! But I found where they went while detailing it!

Thanks for all the info! I dont have the money so I guess no serious mods for me! First I need to get the truck!
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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D44 means Dana 44 axle right?
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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Yes, to be honest 034x4's thread is definately not hte best to read. Unless you have alaptop, welder, axles and all parts sitting in front of ya.

Go to TheRangerStation.com They have like 7 pages on SAS info which is great. Even a few showing the buildup. Also explorerforums.com(i think) is good.


As to price for an SAS? Well, I'll only price doing it yourself.

Axles: 300-1000, depending on deals/type/etc. If you're a tard you'll buy fullsize and narrow. If you're smart either early bronco(71-77) or Wagoneer(1980+) axles. If you go fullsize then that's pimp too.
Rebuilding axles: free- 1500. You don't technically hafta rebuild axles, but it is very smart to, with 20-30 year old axles and huge tires.
Fabrication:any price. Depends what you get, etc etc. You save money if you know how to fab yourself, 034x4 really knows his ****. If you don't, well, it can add up.

Those prices above obviously dont mean much though, it depends on your skills of fab and dealing.

A d44 axle is a Dana 44 axle. You specifically cannot use toyota/chevy axles because they are passenger drop axles. Ford works obviously, i don't remember if dodge does but im just going to guess no.

So seriously, go to TheRangerSation and go to the tech part of hte website and study the guides. You will learn a lot just reading about the parts.


Aaron
 
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Old 03-25-2006
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K thanks will check that out as soon as I can! See ya later!
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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6-7K's sounds kinda high... I think it could be done with about $1500.00... but thats going the cheap way (junkyard axle, new springs, new shackles, new hangers)... but if you want a good, solid setup, then it could very well run nearly $6000.00 (axle, springs, steering box, hydro assist steering, high steer conversion, new steering arms, gears, locker or spool, shackles, hangers, and most of all either adapters or new rims... because you probably will be changing the bolt pattern...)

Right now, I have spent a total of about $500... all I have bought is a rear Dana 44 from a 95 Rodeo (Disc Brakes - YAY!... the only reason I got it was for the disc brakes and that it has the same bolt pattern as a Waggy Dana 44)... and a useless vacuum disconnect Waggy Dana 44 that I will use for parts (It was only $25 so what the hell... lol)

Just trying to shed some light on what all you might need... I know theres more, but I cant think of them... I'm sure someone will add to the list...

good luck if you attempt!
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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Originally Posted by KARPE
I'll tell you this, without at least 6-7G's and extensive fabbing skills and tools at your fingertips this is far out of reach.
You can't be serious in terms of money. If you spend THAT much, you don't NEED fabbing skills!

You can do it for well under 2K if you shop well, and do the work yourself -- the key here is understanding what you're doing and having, or having friends who have, the necessary skills.

I'm going to be well under this target, while actually ADDING 4 wheel drive bang to my 2 wheel drive offroading firecracker. If you already have the t-case and proper transmission (2WD and 4WD are different in Rangers) then you can surely do it.

As far as advantages, a solid axle is generally stronger, allows more wheel travel without compromising rotating parts, etc. It is rougher on the street than an independent IFS or TTB suspension like Rangers have. You trade off street handling and ride for greater offroad capability.

Theoretically, independent suspension can be superior. However, the current state of the art in CV and u-joints means that there are some serious constraints keeping IFS from being a great all-round offroad suspension.

In addition, most IFS lifts leave a "plow" under the truck that stays DOWN when the wheels flex up (the lower arm drop brackets I'm talking about). I've watched IFS Rangers get hung up and stopped where my 4x2 goes through with it's better clearance. It's not pretty.
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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Originally Posted by _97_4X4_
6-7K's sounds kinda high... I think it could be done with about $1500.00... but thats going the cheap way (junkyard axle, new springs, new shackles, new hangers)... but if you want a good, solid setup, then it could very well run nearly $6000.00 (axle, springs, steering box, hydro assist steering, high steer conversion, new steering arms, gears, locker or spool, shackles, hangers, and most of all either adapters or new rims... because you probably will be changing the bolt pattern...)

Right now, I have spent a total of about $500... all I have bought is a rear Dana 44 from a 95 Rodeo (Disc Brakes - YAY!... the only reason I got it was for the disc brakes and that it has the same bolt pattern as a Waggy Dana 44)... and a useless vacuum disconnect Waggy Dana 44 that I will use for parts (It was only $25 so what the hell... lol)

Just trying to shed some light on what all you might need... I know theres more, but I cant think of them... I'm sure someone will add to the list...

good luck if you attempt!

Is the Waggy D44 high pinion? If so, you could always retain the center section and put the axle tubes from another axle in it. The '79 F-150 front axle I just got is high pinion.
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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if you're doing it for looks then you can go as cheap as you want but I'm perdy sure Jey spent damn near 2k in wheels and tires.
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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Originally Posted by KARPE
edited first post,

for future reference there is a tool at the top of the page , Search button. if you type in SAS or Solid Axle Swap, it will bring up every thread that has those words in it for your convenience.

I'll tell you this, without at least 6-7G's and extensive fabbing skills and tools at your fingertips this is far out of reach.
Not necessarily true. To build it to the hilt like Jey did would cost a pretty penny. And I'm not going to belittle his ability at all because his truck is a masterpiece, but it can be done for less and with less.

That being said, if you're not very familiar with what it is or why it's beneficial, I would strongly advise reading and researching for several months before attempting your own, or getting a shop to do it for you. Expect to pay a whole lot for a shop to do it though. If you've got specific questions please feel free to ask!
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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Originally Posted by n3elz
Is the Waggy D44 high pinion? If so, you could always retain the center section and put the axle tubes from another axle in it. The '79 F-150 front axle I just got is high pinion.
Waggy D44 is not HP.

Oh and Aaron, going full-width with your axles is not a 'tard' move. If I were going to SAS my truck, I'd go full width definitely. They're easier to find, and thus cheaper and easier to find parts for. They're also wider and will allow for a more stable ride, which is important for a lifted truck. They'll also let you run bigger tires without having to worry about rubbing on the frame under high articulation.
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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Read what I wrote, "tard".
If you're a tard you'll buy fullsize and narrow.
I mean if you buy a fullsize THEN narrow you're axles.

Love ya Kyle ;-)

Aaron

/doesn't mean tard in a mean way, jus like sayin it, it flows or somethin.
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
Read what I wrote, "tard".

I mean if you buy a fullsize THEN narrow you're axles.

Love ya Kyle ;-)

Aaron

/doesn't mean tard in a mean way, jus like sayin it, it flows or somethin.
Haha ok i read 'fullsize and not narrow'
 
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Old 03-29-2006
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yea, id research it for a long while if your not sure what it really is. and find out more of what is exactly involved and a cost factor, and also if its worth it to you
 
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