Hey guys. First post. Been reading a lot on here, and used the search tool but couldn't really find anything that applies to my situation.

I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4X4
In 2001 they came out with 4 wheel abs as a standard.

I need to replace the hub assembly, and when I spoke to my mechanic, he said the only things you need to do are take off the three bolts and the one large (34mm or so) nut that holds the assembly on. He didn't know anything about a snap ring.

So the question is: does anyone have a clear write up of the hub assembly replacement on a 2001+ ranger? I've never done one before, so any tips are helpful. Also, is there anything to worry about, like vacuum hoses, abs hoses, etc.? I believe the required torque is 225 ft-lbs for the large nut.

 

Sean, you can do it. If you are mechanically inclined by any means, you can do it. Its a simple job, just remember what goes where. There is no hoses, just an abs connector that's easily disconnected.

 

The axle nut torque is actually 162 lb-ft.

Tips? Get yourself a shop manual, keep everything clean and torque all fasteners to spec. Replace the Main Seal on the knuckle while you have it apart for the bearing cassette R&R.

 

Where can I get an excluder seal (part number, easy install?)?

Also, the guy at the ford dealer said, as I was picking up the assembly ($280+tax, best price i've seen), that there's a retention pin for the 1-1/4 " nut, something I want to take out before I take off the nut. However, pulling off the wheel cap, I see the nut but no pin. Any ideas?

Thanks for the speedy responses!

 

you are confusing some things with pre01 rangers

01+ no excluder seal (that i have seen, I have taken apart 2 01 4x4s)
01+ no pulse vacuum line
01+ no pin (like you mention) just a 1.25" Nut.

Basically I would do it this way.

Pull the wheel off
remove caliper
remove rotor
remove dust sheild
remove abs line from hub
Loosen the 1.25" nut
on the back side of the knuckle there are 3 bolts loosen them
now knock the CV back and make sure its loose in the Hub
you now can work on getting the hub out (good luck this can be a bare) Might beable to use air chisel between the hub and knuckle.

then put it back together

btw do me a favor which ever ABS line you have left dont throw it out, PM 01xltranger4x4 and send it to him, he needs one

 

Ford says to replace the axle nut every time it's removed. There is no retaining pin on a 2001 4x4. You can get the new nut and seal at a Ford dealer.

The Main Seal (I incorrectly said Excluder Seal before) is pressed into the knuckle but should be easy to pry out. Installing the new one is supposed to require a special dealer tool but it may be possible to finesse it into position without one. In any case, the seal lip needs to be lubricated with high temp axle/bearing grease before reassembly.

 

I am confused on this main seal bob, cant say i have ever seen one on any 01+ hub and i have torn several apart.

 

Not to hijack the thread but I just had my wheel off for a look on my 99. I have a bad abs sensor. From what I can tell you need a special tool for the automatic hub and another for the snap ring. Is this right? Anything else to be concerned about when changing an abs sensor on a 99?
Thanks John

 

doesnt the abs sensor plug in the hub? you should not have to take the hub out or even apart.

 

Its the rubber flange the cv boot rest against in the back side of the knuckle.


The abs sensor is integral to the bearing. You get a new one with the bearing. It can be unbolted from the bearing but not much of a point when you get a new one and wiring clips. At least with the ford part you do.

 

I'm not sure I haven't done one before. I'll have to do some research but I am sure atleast the rotor will have to come off.
John

 

ok but still i have never seen one on an 01+ is this just 01?

 

Zach, an you explain a bit better what you mean by "knock the CV back"?
Also, why is it so hard to get the hub out? Are there any tools I don't want to use for this procedure? I don't have an air chisel, or a air hammer for that matter. I do have a compressor though (it's my roommates) and a impact wrench. Tired to use the thing today to take off my wheel and the 26 gallon POS didn't go past 50 psi. I had to manually crank those nuts off. PITA.

 

well the hub is kinda pressed into the knuckle, so it wont want to come out of the knuckle.

everytime i did it i took the whole knuckle off the truck and used a punch and 5lb sledge hammer to knock it out.

as for the CV it could be stuck in the hub, tap the end of the shaft in towards the diff with the nut flush to the end so you dont mess up the threads.

 

Thanks to everyone for the replies. It was very helpful during the swap.

HOWEVER,

I started my truck yesterday and as I pulled it out of my parking spot, it was making a horrible sound near the newly replaced hub. I thought it would go away after half a mile, and it did, but then started back up again a little later.
It is a horrible sound, one that I would think if not taken care of immediately would cause harm to my truck. My friend compared the sound it was making to an aluminum can being shredded and torn. Not a pleasant sound.I have no clue what is making this sound, and am about to take the hub off and see if I can tell what is going on, but when I pulled the center wheel cap off, I saw metal shavings where the 1.25" nut is located, and the nut seems to be rubbing against some other metal ring (part of the hub assembly?).

Does anyone know what is going on here? Did I install the hub wrong? It's had about 1000 miles put on it since the swap, and haven't had any problem until now. Let me know if you need pictures. I'll be working on this all day, so any input is appreciated.

 

So I pulled my wheel off to check out the problem, and the shaft that the 1.25" nut connects to was loose (had some play) inside the hub assembly. It looked like there is a washer (I did this a month ago, so I don't remember exactly) behind the nut, and it's all bent out of shape (which is probably what caused the metal shavings and noise) so I tightened the large nut so the shaft wouldn't have any more play. However, after tightening the nut, I realized I couldn't get a great grip on it because the bend in the washer doesn't allow the socket to have more than about 1/8" grip on the nut. I can't tighten it to the spec'd torque, and I tried loosening the nut and couldn't get it off. So now I think I need to replace the washer behind the nut, and probably the nut as well, but I can't get the nut off.
If anyone has any recommendations, comments, suggestions, etc. please don't hesitate. I'm not positive that the washer was what caused the sound, but in either case, the nut should have been tighter in the first place. I tightened it to the afore mentioned 162 ft-lbs. and have no idea how it became loose. Please someone help.

 

i hope you didnt buy the hub asmbly yet, AutoPartsDirectToYou.com. much cheaper

 

http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...ub_bearing.htm

im pretty sure its the samething even though that was done on a 98-00 to get rid of the vacuum hubs, you should be fine, i had to do mine once in the snow and i had no manual, if you think about it logically, you will be fine. hoooray run on sentences.

 

Ok, so I figured out the problem, and solved it. This post is for those that are going through the same process.
The Ford dealer sold me the wrong hub, and I should have caught it earlier. The hub they sold me was too large, and the spindle nut couldn't hold it on. This is what made the awful sound, the washer being forced off the nut. This is only about a $17 dollar part, but if you don't catch it in time, it could be very bad news for the shaft.
When you go to buy a hub from the dealer, or wherever you go, take your VIN with you. Make sure you give them the VIN, and only that, or you will be asking for trouble. I'm not sure why they don't ask for this in the first place, it would seem the VIN gives you all the info you need about a car, but such is life.
Thanks to all those that helped me in this process. Car runs great, and the hubs were cheaper than I expected.

 

What vehicle was the hub they sold you for? I'm surprised the wrong hub would even bolt up.

 

According the Ford, there are 6 different hub assemblies for the 2001 year.
The one they sold me bolted on fine, but it didn't have the teeth to accept the shaft, which I found to be kinda weird.