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Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 04-04-2009
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Originally Posted by nross View Post
Alright, I thought I counted wrong. It's a 12MM I think. Also... the fill plug is rusty on the diff. any good ways to get it off without the worry of cracking the case? i'm quite skiddish of stuck drainplugs.
soak it with some pb blaster or any penetrant lube first and than wrench it out. youll have a hard time cracking that housing.
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  #27  
Old 04-04-2009
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alright, I never tried PB blaster... i hear it works wonders.

What fluid goes in each differiental? I mean I am thinking of just changing boths fluids... they said at ford not to worry about it until 100k miles... but they said that about the T-case too... and when I changed the fluid at 48k it was black and stunk like burnt popcorn.... grrr.

I noticed it says something about some additive or something that has to go in there to?

it's a 4.10 axel, im not sure about the front.. whatever stock is.
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  #28  
Old 04-04-2009
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Does it need special tools to do? is it easy to do without raising the truck too high? All I really have to raise the truck is 2 5TON jack stands, and a 3 ton hydrolic jack... where is a good place to put the stands for the rear? I have only jacked the front up before.
It can be done on jackstands, but that crush sleeve will take a GOOD breaker bar and probably a pipe to go on it. A dial inlbs torque wrench is a MUST to set the bearing preload. Other than that it's hand tools and torque wrenches unless the bearings are shot. Rebuilding the rear takes a whole slew of special tools, and PATIENCE!


Put the stand as far outward on the axle tube as possible when lifting the rear.
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  #29  
Old 04-04-2009
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Originally Posted by buckgnarly View Post
It can be done on jackstands, but that crush sleeve will take a GOOD breaker bar and probably a pipe to go on it. A dial inlbs torque wrench is a MUST to set the bearing preload. Other than that it's hand tools and torque wrenches unless the bearings are shot. Rebuilding the rear takes a whole slew of special tools, and PATIENCE!


Put the stand as far outward on the axle tube as possible when lifting the rear.
alright, now to remove this seal, I just remove the nut, take out the yoke.. then thats is where im a bit lost.... how do I stop the yoke from turning to remove the nut? and .... yeah.......
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  #30  
Old 04-04-2009
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alright, now to remove this seal, I just remove the nut, take out the yoke.. then thats is where im a bit lost.... how do I stop the yoke from turning to remove the nut? and .... yeah.......
Ah, the world of homemade tools! I took a pice of 2" wide 1/4" thick and 14" long flat iron and made a flange holder. Drill two holes to match the holes on your flange and you're good to go. Kind of a long flat wrench.

The proper way is to remove carrier, use new crush sleeve and set the preload to 8-14 inlbs.
Many people just take the nut off, replace seal, and torque it back close to original. There are two "improper" ways to do that, you can get a torque reading before diasassembly, or count the number of turns/mark the pinion and nut. When you put it back on, put it on the same number of turns/to the mark. Problem with both is the torque may have been off to start, which was my case hence my chewed up bearings.
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  #31  
Old 04-04-2009
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After reading more and more into this... I am wondering if when ford changed my pinion seal at 34k miles or so... they did it with little to no care and torqued it wrong... and now the bearings inside there are failing. Since now thinking a bit after that was done... the whole truck formed kind of a wobble to it.... and now im leaking again, with a clicking noise in foward... kind of like if bearings were not racing around good...... is it possible?
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2009
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Yup....very possible!
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