Shifter options tor manual t-case?
 

Because the fx4 manual t-case shifters are hard to find, I'm exploring other options for a manual t-case shifter (upper shifter)

I was just told that I could mod a Hurst shifter to fit. Sounds like a pretty good idea being that i already have a hurst on my transmission.

I really don't want to completely make one from scratch.

Any other options? Will an explorer shifter fit?

Thanks guys.

I don't see why anything wouldn't fit. The lower is just a flat stock with two holes. Upper could be anything from an old ford, dodge, chevy or beer tap.

You might be correct.

I'm not too familiar with the shifter linkage.

Let the ideas flow lol.

The linkage does take the flat bar so making and adapter would be easy.

As stated the Hurst Shifter might bolt on.

I think the manual shifters from the B2 Broncos would be a great option

Sorry to fill up your Wanted Ad with info…

Next, here is the T/C linkage from the top, you can see the flat attachment points; easy to adapt to.
The only thing that looks like a problem is to use a thick piece of med to hard rubber between the stick and the linkage to reduce vibrations.
Check out the pic and see what Ford did.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1371990356

Here is dual Hurst Shifters.
This is where I WAS going but as always things change.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1371990356

Using Hurst Stick on the T/C allows you a wide range of optional sticks, any height, any bend you can think of and straight from Hurst.

I will get out to the shop shortly and get a picture of the Stick that came with the Ranger Hurst Kit, if the same size as the Ford Linkage, I never checked it while it was here, then it could be a bolt in but thinking not !
Just need an adapter to go from the Ford Linkage to the Hurst Stick.

Biggest thing is IF Taylor thinks it looks good.

ltr

p.s. Get rid of the Hurst Shift Ball, not big enough and looks like $hit !

One more thing… the FX4 Leather Boots from Ford will slip over the Hurst Shifter Stick, I did it so I know it will work and it looks good.
Now all you need is to find some reasonably priced FX4 Boots and Bezel.

Here is what I have:

The Hurst Stick that came in the Ranger Hurst Conversion Kit and the FX4 Ball, separate but compatible:
Height of stick, not length… 11”
Mounting Area - Stick is 1” wide at the base, approx 2.25” of straight stick and approx 5/16” thick.
Holes are ⅜” dia, spaced ⅞” apart, center of first hole from the bottom end of the stick is approx ⅜”.
Stick gets thicker toward the top getting to ⅜” thick.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1372364048

Here they are together so you can see the Ball does fit, it still needs a thin lock nut but the threads are all set and tight:
Overall Height to top of Ball is 12”.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1372364048

This is the Shift lever showing the bend, it has a slight bend towards the Driver’s Side, 1.25" and yes the bend toward the seat is approx 5-6", but it could be forward depending on how you mount it:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1372364048

The FX4 Ball: $$$ can’t find these !

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1372364048

The business side of the Ball: drilled and taped for ¼-20 threads, standard Hurst size.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1372364048

So there you have it Taylor, what do you think.
The ball should work with any Stick you have or make IF it has a ¼-20 thread on the ball end.

THATS AWESOME!!!

Pm me whenever you get a chance, and ill get back with you this evening.

On my 04 I had an old short throw shifter out of my Mustang 5.0 and i used the upper arm and mounted it to the lower linkage from a 93 up Ranger with a BW1354M. Worked great!Looked good! The linkage is pretty much all the same even on the 02 fx4 and 03 level 2 rangers as I used the old linkage and mounted itdirectly to the ext. housing.

So Taylor... With the family growing, the new gym and the Academy how is the new T/C and shifter going ?

Expected to see a pic or two by now.

I'm a great one to push people, really I need to push myself, but get it done.

All I need to do is order a gasket or two, and fluid.

After that ill feel comfortable to cut into the floor.

This academy is a lot more than I expected, but its awesome.

I’m thinking you do not have to cut the floor.
The trans plate I gave you you should fit in the same location as your trans plate.
The new floor plate, well not new but the FX4 one, has the holes needed and should bolt in.
I think the plate had a slight bend in it so watch that.

I'm not sure if there is an existing hole for the t-case shifter.
You might be right.
I need to go ahead and cut the carpet so I can know what I'm dealing with.

Just me... as usual !
Take out the passenger seat and lift the carpet first.
Change the plate and then reposition the carpet so it fits as stock.
Then you can feel the hole to make the cut instead of a random slicing.

Not saying this is right or wrong just me and the way I would do it.
Might be a little extra work but you could get some sound deadening material and add some to the floor at the same time AND you don't have to cover the whole floor, although better, just some large pieces centered will help.

I did the whole floor with Be-Quiet Material and it changed the ride quality by reducing the noise to a more tolerable level.
Also, you may have noticed more noise with the Hurst Trans change over, it will increase with the T/C Shifter added.
You will need to add noise canceling material to that area too and some foam around the stick, how much is your call.

There won't be an existing hole Taylor, but you can just unbolt the current inspection plate and bolt the new one in place.

Cutting on the rug is all that should be needed, small little cuts until the shift mechanism shows threw, the trim around the hole until it is big enough and don’t cut the gasket in the plate.
See that floor plate was a good thing and I was going to keep it ! lol I could have got more money for it.

I want to see how you end up doing the shifter handle, don’t forget a nut under the ball to lock it in place.