shock tabs, moving the shock mount on the axle..
 

i know some members have moved the shock up to the side of the axle so that it doesn't hang so low. anyway does that require shorter shocks? prolly not idk :shrug:

also if this reads right sounds like its just one tab... so i would need 4 for the rear axle...

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/c...roducts_id=105

thanks

yup, youll need 4 of those. and i would expect to no have much uptravel if you were to keep the shocks you have now.

thanks chris.

Yes, all else remaining the same, it would require either shorter shocks or longer bump stops. The problem with shorter shocks is that they almost always mean reduced overall travel. That might be OK on the street but it's not desirable for off road.

The selection of the factory mount position was a compromise as all engineering decisions are. With the stock suspension, it gives fairly good travel while allowing the shock to be packaged in the restricted area below the bed.

well ill try to keep it as low as possible, but i will need something like what i have linked to for my explorer axle.

have something else in mind Bob?

I'm leaving mine where they are. For my purposes, differential clearance is the limiting factor and the shock mounts do not hang lower than the diff.

If you want raised lower shock mounts and good suspension travel, the most straightforward way is with a shock cage in the bed. However, if you need to use the bed for cargo, that's not going to cut it.

If you've lifted your truck like 2 to 3 inches and kept the stock shocks, this will put you back where you were. That's what I did. I lifted the rear, moved the mounts, and kept the same shocks.

Longer shocks would have required modifications to the bump stops so the shocks don't become the bump stop. Consider that as you do this so you don't get too long a shock.

Man they all beat me to everything I was gonna say. I guess that's what I get for hanging around with the smart folks.

Ha ha! Maybe you need a "speed typing" clase, lol...

I forgot to mention: I just cut the factory mounts off with an air die grinder with a thin 3" cutting wheel on it, then welded them back on in a different spot. Since they will be sticking straight out, the little bit they hug the axle more won't affect the shocks fit in the mount.

I dont think youde need a shorter shock. are you gonna use stock upper mounts? I show a lot of shaft on my shock....

check out the spring plates on dixonbrosracing.com page 2 i belive.. they put the lower shock mounts on the leaf plates.. you will have to come up with an upper shock mount tho, but having the shocks more towards the wheels would also help handling.

Those won't work without a bed cage or a linkage.

So, here's what it sounds like you are saying:

"It is OK to significantly raise the the lower mounts, keep the upper mounts in the same position, run the factory bumpstop arrangement and still run the OE length shocks."

This doesn't sound possible unless you're willing to allow the stock length shocks to bottom before the bumpstops fully compress.

The way I see it, lifting the rear by changing springs and/or shackles does not change the relationship between the shock mounts, bumpstops and shock length at all. Perhaps you have done something else to alter the stops?

If you want to move the lower mounts up and leave everything else as OE, then you should install shorter shocks and/or change the bumpstop relationship to protect the stock length shocks.

in there case the bump stops would still need to be extended? but new shocks wouldn't be needed. :shrug:

i get what you guys are saying but its almost over my head :crazy:

well I think you have enough uptravel to move it up a couple inches.

you are saying that you want to put it on the SIDE of that axle, not the top, right?

even so, I got aftermarket bumpstops that are a few inches longer for free from a shop in fort collins once, I doubt theyre that expensive and they basically bolt in. I have to modify just a tab for clearance issues...

yea side of the axle.

unless there are advantages to the top?

Ah, my bad: remember I put in blocks that were taller with the stock blocks specially welded to them. I didn't mention that or consider that everyone didn't get that when I posted.

You're absolutely right. My whole premise is based on modifying the bump stop "arm" on the axle.

I'm sorry for anyone who was misled or confused by that. With the setup I've got, it works as I posted, but only IF you do the whole bit.

With free welding services available to me, this was an absolutely dirt cheap way for me to get the rear up when I was going to the spindles.

I had already bought the Rancho RSX shocks and really liked them and didn't want to "throw them away", so that's why I took the approach I did -- it mimimized my cash outlay.

Here's a couple of pics that explain better than words about the shock mounts and bumpstops. These are old pics from right after I made up the rear lift, and before the aluminum diff cover, and the 35's I have now. Those are 31's. in the pics.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...tid=1706&stc=1

The next picture you can see it from a different angle, and you can see my spring pack with the extra leaf.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...tid=1709&stc=1

Now before you lecture me on the horrors of stacked blocks, I'll point out that those are NOT stacked blocks the way they are meant when people warn about them. That is effectively a SINGLE 4.5" block which retains the factory bump stop.

Welding rolled carbon steel to cast steel or iron requires special techniques with preheating and controlled cooldown, and low-oxygen rods. This was all done by some VERY experienced welders here at the steel mill and they have stood up to all sorts of abuse including my inadvertent jumping of the truck.

Although the thicker spring pack resists wrap somewhat, this setup really isn't practical without traction bars. Otherwise spring wrap with those longer blocks would eat you up.

Thanks, John. That clears up why yours will work with the reclocked shock mounts. The lift between the axle and the block arm compensates for the raised mounts.

Yes, precisely, Bob. Again -- sorry for the confusion: I usually try to be clearer than that! :wink:

Subscribing. Very interesting read. Thanks.

well i ordered them shock tabs and spring plates, we will she how it turns out.