2000 Ranger Pinion Nut Torque Value?
#1
#3
Thanks
I didn't remove the pinion from the ring. I was leaking fluid through front seal.
All I did was unbolt the pinion nut / removed the campanion flange and replaced the pinion seal.
Before I removed the companion flange I marked it to it went back to the same position.
Now all I need to tighten then new pinion nut.
I didn't remove the pinion from the ring. I was leaking fluid through front seal.
All I did was unbolt the pinion nut / removed the campanion flange and replaced the pinion seal.
Before I removed the companion flange I marked it to it went back to the same position.
Now all I need to tighten then new pinion nut.
#5
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In order to do that seal right, you need to remove the carrier and use a new crush sleeve (collapsable spacer) and pinion nut. How hard you torque that nut determines how much that spacer crushes which in turn determines how much preload is on those bearings. By loosening that nut, you took off the preload and the crush sleeves do not return to original shape.
If you do not get those bearings back to the preload they had before you took off the flange, you run the risk of over or under torqueing. Either case could ruin those bearings very fast. My bearings lasted less than 60 miles whne I tried the easy way for my seal, though many have had luck marking the nut and not doing it the book way.
There is no set torque to get those bearings to that preload, did you mark the nut before you took it off? that's really the only way you are going to get it close. that nut has to be close to where it was when you started, or get a new crush sleeve/pinion nut and start from scratch.
If you do not get those bearings back to the preload they had before you took off the flange, you run the risk of over or under torqueing. Either case could ruin those bearings very fast. My bearings lasted less than 60 miles whne I tried the easy way for my seal, though many have had luck marking the nut and not doing it the book way.
There is no set torque to get those bearings to that preload, did you mark the nut before you took it off? that's really the only way you are going to get it close. that nut has to be close to where it was when you started, or get a new crush sleeve/pinion nut and start from scratch.
Last edited by buckgnarly; 08-04-2009 at 06:50 PM.
#7
Thanks
I didn't remove the pinion from the ring. I was leaking fluid through front seal.
All I did was unbolt the pinion nut / removed the campanion flange and replaced the pinion seal.
Before I removed the companion flange I marked it to it went back to the same position.
Now all I need to tighten then new pinion nut.
I didn't remove the pinion from the ring. I was leaking fluid through front seal.
All I did was unbolt the pinion nut / removed the campanion flange and replaced the pinion seal.
Before I removed the companion flange I marked it to it went back to the same position.
Now all I need to tighten then new pinion nut.
Like buck said, you SHOULD replace the crush sleeve, i've heard of people not doing it and not having problems too though.
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02slammedranger
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03-02-2012 02:11 PM