Hey all. So for those of you who aren't familiar with my truck, I have an 08 sport 4x4 with LSD (3.73 ratio currently). I have 33x12.50 mudders, superlift, prekeys, skyjacker leafsprings, shackles etc, and it's a 5 spd manual.

I'm looking at regearing because in deep snow, mud etc it is very sluggish and i tend to just get a burning clutch smell instead of forward movement, and it is slow to build up speed on the roads. I've also started my own contracting work and may be doing more hauling/towing so a trailer may be in the picture soon.

I'm wondering whether or not a 4.10, 4.56, or 4.88 would do me better... People in the past told me that keeping it a bit lower because of the highway driving I do may be better, but I do keep between 100-110kmh on the highway anyways. so I'm wondering if maybe the 4.56 is the ideal place to be.. especially if down the line I maybe want to add a BL and 35's?

Secondly I'm wondering what the approx costs would be in getting new gears put in?? I don't have a great deal of technical skill, nor the tools or shop to do anything myself so I'd be taking it to a shop.

For anyone who reads through all this and answers any of my questions, I thank you very much. cheers. Especially any fellow Canadians with Canadian prices because who knows how much of a difference there is between the border.. I can only assume I should just estimate up from any American approx prices :(

 

Right now I have 33's as well and I'm happy with my 4.10's. But if you're likely going to be going to 35's I'd go 4.56. Not sure sure about actual prices though, sorry!

 

Thanks, ya 4.10's may be enough because I mean... if I'm running my business and doin well enough that I can afford to throw on 35's and a BL, i'd probably rather just invest the money into a Superduty... so lets take that idea out of the picture for now. however, if I'm regularly towing a trailer with a few thousand pounds of lumber on it I'm wondering if the 4.56's may be better... or if I'll be revving too high on the highways.

 

4.10s would be a waste of money, the truck would still be geared taller than stock with heavier tires, more drag and rolling mass. Not to mention you would be out 1200-1500 (in the US) for parts and labor.
So I'll tell you what I tell everyone else. 4.56 gears will be very ideal for you with 33s. 4.88s ideal with 35s.
I ran 33s and 4.88s and loved it, torquey as hell, pulled awesome. Because of higher rpms I never broke 14mpg highway. However if you are pretty sure you're going to get 35s soon the 4.88s wouldn't be bad.
4.56 gears will work okay with 35s but not ideal.
My 98 ranger had 3.73s and 33s with a manual trans and I know your pain. My ohv engine even worked better at low rpm, but in 12"+ of snow I had to use 4 low. Same in deep sand or mud. Towing sucked.

 

I've got 33s and a 4.0, I used to have 3.73s and it suucked, I swapped to 4.10s just recently and its MUCH better in all aspects highway, city. The rpms are a little higher on the highway(about 500rpms more than before). I think 4.56s would be to much for highway driving IMO. Oh I also haul a 5x8 Landscaping trailer filled with my equipment and bed full of Grass and tools and the only time I notice its back there now is when I'm braking. So I'd say your safe with going up to 4.10s. Plus its less expensive this route. Explorer 8,8 with 4.10 gears with discs and 31 slpine axle shafts is what I'd be looking for if I were you.

 

You have a completely different engine.
The SOHC needs RPM. Trust me, 4.88s and 33s were fine on the highway. Slightly high, but nowhere near excessive and it worked very well. 4.56 would be perfect for the SOHC.

 

I should add, here are the following configurations I have owned.

98 Ranger 4.0L OHV manual 3.73s 31s and then 33s
97 Explorer 4.0L OHV auto 3.73s 235s and then 31s
2005 Sport Trac 4.0L SOHC auto 4.10s with 255s, then 33s, then 4.88s

I can tell you that with 33s and 4.10s on the Sport Trac, it was "okay." Nothing to write home about, but it got around okay. Keep in mind that it was an automatic though. With a shorter (I believe) first gear and a torque converter. The manual has a weak clutch and tall first gear.

Your factory tires were about 30" tall, with 3.73s. With 33s, 4.10s will bring the truck back to stock RPM. However, your tires are taller, wider and heavier than stock. The truck is taller. There is a lot more drag on all accounts, and it takes more effort to get the tires turning and keep them rolling through deep snow and mud.

So you have to ask yourself, does it make sense to spend $1500 for worse than stock performance? I don't think it does.

 

thanks for the info brianjwilson. I'd have to agree here. As I said, I don't drive very fast on the highways at all, and that would be even more true if I was hauling a trailer loaded with lumber. And the odd time I come across some fun in the mud or some deep snow, I'd like to be able to get moving in it without using 4x4 low or burning my clutch.

 

x2 on the 4.88s

 

For what it's worth, 4.56 gears and 35s will still be geared a little lower than stock. It wouldn't he bad like that, it would just be better to have 4.88s with 35s for your use.
When I put 4.88s in with 33s I lived in Oregon, and the highways were 55mph with some at 65mph, and it worked great. When I moved out here with 70mph limits and higher, it ran higher rpms than what I would call ideal, but it wasn't like the engine was winding up like crazy or anything. You are only talking about a couple hundred rpm difference.