Tips upon improving my brake pedal pressure. - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 11-21-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.
Seeing as your in Bills area.. You might want to consider buying a case of beer, the same parts he did and go with rear discs. Theres a HUGE difference moving to rear discs. I used to have problems slowing down from speeds over 100, now its not an issue at all. The ABS system is on the differential, leaves the brakes open to modification :)
lol, no case of beer would be needed, i've been to Bill's house many times! As he has been here probably more times i've been to his house, lol. (although im sure he'd like the beer!)

Something like rear disk is in the works already. I dont get a chance to talk to you much whether its PM of aim (not sure if you have that), but im not going to mess with this axle anymore. I am casually looking for a 31 spline with a ls and rear disk that i can put some gears in, and install some good pads/rotors, etc. The thing is, i dont know if i want to get one NOW, or wait till i buy that wrecked explorer with a 302, and swap everything..
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  #27  
Old 11-21-2006
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bleed the brakes and bleed them again...then go after other items.
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  #28  
Old 11-21-2006
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^ i plan on bleeding them, or having them done with a vaccum machine..
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  #29  
Old 11-21-2006
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it would be easier to bleed them now, deal with the drums, and swap in the axle when you can get ahold of a WHOLE explorer...
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  #30  
Old 11-21-2006
D.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01xltranger4x4
lol, no case of beer would be needed, i've been to Bill's house many times! As he has been here probably more times i've been to his house, lol. (although im sure he'd like the beer!)
I KNOW Bill likes to party can of air-freshener , lighter and a .. nevermind, I'm sure he will remember

Quote:
Something like rear disk is in the works already. I dont get a chance to talk to you much whether its PM of aim (not sure if you have that),
iChat. Same thing. djayenos2 I believe is the handle I use.

Quote:
but im not going to mess with this axle anymore. I am casually looking for a 31 spline with a ls and rear disk that i can put some gears in, and install some good pads/rotors, etc. The thing is, i dont know if i want to get one NOW, or wait till i buy that wrecked explorer with a 302, and swap everything..
I would do the brakes BEFORE the 302. Its bad stopping now on 35's, Add teh additional weight of an Iron Blocked V8 and a Bigger Tranny.. whats happens trying to stop then.. Especially lifted where that weight has more gravatational pull on it.. Spells disaster at a quick pace to me.

If your in the hunt for an exploder axle, disc-todisc to rebuild.. I might be able to help with that :) Detroit is only 2 hrs away for some of us

D.
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  #31  
Old 11-21-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
cant the master cylinder start to malfunction causing less brake pressure?
yes master cyclinder will cause this problem..
my friends 90's bronco, you had to push the pedal down like 90% before anything would start to grab. i checked everything, bleading the brakes and all and nothin was wrong. i told him to go get the master cyclinder checked, and sure enough one of the valves were bad. they replaced the whole master cyclinder.

but ya, i didnt think bout the adjuster, was that all rusted mark? or was it able to spin?
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  #32  
Old 11-21-2006
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HAHA you guys are funny. If he had a 31 spline I would for sure help him.
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  #33  
Old 11-23-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.
If your in the hunt for an exploder axle, disc-todisc to rebuild.. I might be able to help with that :) Detroit is only 2 hrs away for some of us

D.
Thats cool, i might have to take you up on that offer - Explorer rear axle with ls, 4.56 gears, and rear disk is what i would like to run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rangererv
yes master cyclinder will cause this problem..
my friends 90's bronco, you had to push the pedal down like 90% before anything would start to grab. i checked everything, bleading the brakes and all and nothin was wrong. i told him to go get the master cyclinder checked, and sure enough one of the valves were bad. they replaced the whole master cyclinder.

but ya, i didnt think bout the adjuster, was that all rusted mark? or was it able to spin?
That sounds kinda like whats wrong with mine, i have to push the brakes down a bit for anything to even grab. If bleeding them dosent help that may be what the problem is.

I replaced everything in the rear brakes except the wheel cylinders, the old adjuster was rusted completely and wouldnt move.
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  #34  
Old 11-23-2006
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Are you absolutely sure you got the right adjuster piece on the right side? They are threaded reverse of each other and if you swap them, you brakes will automatically UNADJUST rather than adjust, lol.
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  #35  
Old 11-23-2006
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I put everything back together how it came.

It dosent seem like the rear brakes would even function right if they were backwards.
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  #36  
Old 11-23-2006
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They would -- for awhile.

Take the the drums off and check them sometime if you get a chance. Like I said, there are two different ones: one with left hand thread, and one with right hand thread. If you replaced them, you would need to know that to make them work right. The adjuster pawl pushes on the star wheel in a certain direction. If the adjust expands when turning in that direction, you have the correct one on the correct side.
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  #37  
Old 11-23-2006
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Im pretty sure they are on right becuase i was turning the star wheel adjuster before i put the drums back on to make sure the shoes were 'snug' with the drums...Plus i did back up quickly and slammed on the brakes and the pedal did seem to get a bit firmer. Its just the pedal shouldnt have to be pressed down 1/2 way for the brakes to grab.
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  #38  
Old 11-23-2006
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Fair enough. Just trying to cover "all the bases".
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  #39  
Old 11-23-2006
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The factory adjusters are stamped "R" and "L" but you must unscrew the 'bolt' all the way and look on the end of the threaded section to see it.
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