Is there any specific things to know about/do with the Ranger U-joints?

I've already picked them up at Napa, got the double cardan fronts and the rear U-joints for the rear drive shaft.

I've swapped a drive shaft on one of my cars, and changed U-joints on a couple of truck drive shafts. I assume it should be the same as any other drive shaft...

Unless there's a special procedure to the double cardan setup connecting the transfer case and rear driveshaft.

 

There shouldnt be usually its straight forward on changing them.

 

Thanks.

I also happened to stumble upon the how to for U-joints a few minutes ago... don't know how I missed it.

Looks like I'll be changing them tomorrow, hopefully get it done before class at 6pm.

These are definitely the factory joints, I swear I can feel them bind and stick while driving it every now and then.

The new Precisions that I'll be putting in are greaseable, so that will help a lot. Plus they are made in the USA... worth spending the 46 bucks to get all of the rear drive shaft joints. I could've got the super duty joints, but those were about double the price.

 

have fun changing them lol. i know how much of a PITA some u joints can be

 

Just don't plan on changing the middle one in the front shaft. (if you 4x4)
you can't get it out unless you drop the the front axle.

 

the middle one in the front shaft? you mean the double cardon joint? he said he bought a whole new joint to replace it

 

its not a Double Cardon.
Its an actual U-joint. connects both left and right side CV's together.

 

there are no constant velocity joints in the driveshaft

 

You guys are getting things confused....

If the truck is a 96, it has 3 u joints in the front TTB axle. No CVs. The two outer u joints are easy enough, but the TTB has a middle U joint on the pass side that the middle section (pig, pumpkin, etc) needs to come out to do, basically as said you gotta drop the axle. It's not fun and there are a few people on the net who claim to have cut out the u joint and installed w/o dropping the center section. If this is what you are doing, it's invovled and you may want to get rid of the c clip on the pass side that requires the dropping of the axle. Replace that with a spring, and you will not longer have to drop the axle in the future.

But....I don't think he is doing that......

It sounds to me that the OP is doing the u joints on the front and rear driveshaft, hence the reference to the double cardain in the front. You should replace the centering ball on that double cardain also. Nothing special about those dshaft u joints, unless they are rusted to hell. I pretty much have accepted the fact that I torch out old ujoints after breakeing one or two ears on axle shafts. If they are bad, and you have a torch/plasma, might want to just cut the old ones out.

Only other thing OP, there is no double cardain in the rear, did you mean the carrier bearing on the two piece shaft?

 

Yea, I don't know why i said CV's. I'm retarded.

I changed my front U-joint, and like Carl said, Its a very INVOLVED process.
But, if Carl is right and your only doing the Driveshaft, then your life got easier.
depending on your trucks options, you might have the two piece driveshaft, or the one piece.
If you have the two piece, there is a carrier bearing you should probably replace since your pulling the shaft anyways.

 

It's the rear drive shaft, not the front ones. The front shaft from the transfer case to the front axle flange has been postponed due to lack of funds.

Double cardan at the transfer case rear output, and a single u joint at the rear axle pinion flange... it's a one piece drive shaft.

I'll crawl under there and get some pics to clear this all up tomorrow.

BTW, I had to replace the centering ball. Talked to the guys at the truck parts store where I found the boot that covers the ball (gasp, someone had it!?!) and several of them said it's a major PITA to replace the centering ball by pressing it out of the old yoke. They stopped doing that years ago and just replace the yoke now, it's only 30 bucks more than a centering ball kit.

So I got a new one with with the ball and everything, and pressed the boot on.

Dealership wanted 436 bucks for the front yoke with the centering ball. No boot with it either... Bollocks.

I replaced every joint and the front yoke/centering ball and bought the boot for about 140 bucks... took me some time since that boot was quite elusive, but I git r done...


This thing went together a hell of a lot easier than it came apart... salt+steel= lots and lots of rust... caps rusted in, clips rusted in... yeah, it was a PITA, but my cheapo 1 ton HF arbor press paid for itself a third time and made the job a lot easier. I was reefing on that thing with a cheater pipe to get one of the joints to move, lol.


If you're in Michigan and can't find the boot or whatever, send me a PM, I'll tell you where I bought the yoke and boot. They should be willing to ship it.



BTW, I noticed a bunch of grease with what looks like metal powder/small flakes by the rear pinion flange on the diff, there isn't any play on the pinion flange back and forth or side to side, but there is some noticeable backlash. I'll have to snag a photo of that too, I've never seen it on any of the other vehicles with rear diffs that I own.

Either way, I might be picking up some spare parts for this money pit soon, like an 8.8 or better yet, a Dana 44 or 60 3.73 rear axle and other small stuff. Maybe the front Dana 44 TTB set up off an F150... anyone say long travel Superlifted Danger Ranger?


And I should've taken a pic of that giant *** big rig yoke that was sitting on a parts bench at the shop... makes even a Dana 80 pinion yoke look like a child's toy... it completely dwarfed the little yoke off of the Ranger.


This damn thing is trying to drain me bank account... but even so, I still like the truck...

 

Here are the pics that I promised...





This is the oily/greasy residue I mentioned before... just how much is considered 'normal'?

 

Huh, never knew the old shafts had double cardains on the one piece. Is that short cab short bed by chance?

I really see nothing wrong with that pinion, the 8.8s that I have had always seem to have too much backlash, but even after rebuilding mine it felt the same.

 

HOLY RUST mang.

as far as that greasy residue the pinion seal was prolly leaking at one point attracting dirt and dust. My truck had that in some areas along the front main seal on the block. I replaced the seal and blasted the area with non chlorinated brake parts cleaner and the residue has no came back.

BTW i would POR15 your frame

 

Standard (chickin' coupe) cab cab, short bed... XLT trim package.

Rust... welcome to Michigan... ----ing salt...


The rear spring shackles are still OEM, and they have some life left yet before they will let go.

When I pull the bed this spring, I plan on repairing/replacing stuff that needs it and probably will tackle some other stuff too.

Here's the list of what needs to be done while the bed is off...

-Gas tank straps
-Spare tire removal and relocation
-Frame rust removal/repair/painting
-Gas tank fuel level sender
-fix small rust hole in the bed's driver side fender and then apply Herculiner to the bed
-Check/replace that rear axle brake line (read here that it tends to rust out due to being placed in a spot where crap collects...)
-Check/repair/replace rear shock mounts

Some possibles while the bed is off...

-Bronco II gas tank added for auxiliary
-Axle and leaf spring swap (if that all lines up in time)
-New shocks


Yep. got lots of work ahead of me here. And this is only one of three vehicles that I have, all of which are on going projects in some way...