I've looked over my owner's manual a dozen or more times, repeatedly searched google, but cannot find anything about when I should change my transmission fluid.

I've already changed it about a month ago, but I know I'll have to change it again sooner or later. Either I'm blind, or this is a well kept secret. Imagine that, a company not wanting you to know something

Anyway, specs. 1999, 3.0 V6 Flex fuel, automatic, 4x4.

 

Here is what is posted on Alldata for my 2002 yet my truck has a manual transmission

150,000 mileage interval

Replace
Change automatic transmission/transaxle fluid and filter.


I always go by the smell of the fluid the color of the fluid and my budget.

It is better to change it well before it is needed, as long as your service procedures do not put the transmission in harms way.

 

Sheesh, 150 grand. The color and smell is probably what I'll end up going by in the long run. I threw in five quarts of STP mercon V on my change last month, having no history of what was in the transmission or how long it was in there.

Didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Fine metal 'dust' on the magnet, but no large chips. Fluid was dark but not black or burnt.

 

Automatics should run normally between 180-200degF

At 220degF oil gets thin and pressure drops, that causes slipping
At 250degF valves start to stick
these cut into transmission life

Above 250degF....well trans is screwed, most likely within 1 to 5,000 miles.


2nd trans cooler is simply a must for max trans life, temp gauge is good as well, but cooler is first place to drop $50-$100


ATF lives a "clean" life, no condensation, no Blow-by, or other nastiness that the engine oil has to deal with.
So outside of mechanical issues the ATF can last a long long time, there are anti-corrosion additives that can break down over time, but we are talking years.
So yes, 100+k miles before changing wouldn't be too bad, as long as heat was never a factor.

 

Thanks for the info RonD. You're like a talking service manual, lol.

When you say 'second trans cooler', I've already got one cooler mounted by the bumper bolts. Is this the factory one you're talking about, or are you saying to purchase another in addition to the factory cooler?

 

Most factory trans coolers are in the radiator, these help keep trans fluid at an even temp after warm up and do provide cooling since lower rad temp should run about 175degF assuming 190deg Thermostat.

But problem with these on their own is that when you are putting engine AND trans under a load, i.e. climbing a long mountain grade or pulling a loaded truck or trailer, engine temp goes up and so does trans temp..........
That can add another 20degF to lower rad temp(just above 1/2 on dash temp gauge), so 195degF and not much cooling for the transmission any more.

2nd inline cooler keeps the temp down in those situation but also just generally.

If you have the "trailer package" on a Ranger that usually includes the larger trans cooler that sits in front of the rad, so you have the extra cooling already.
You could check the in and out line temps on that cooler with a IR thermometer after driving it for at least 20 min. to see what temps are at.
195degF is really the max temp you what to see for trans fluid, under load if might get to 215degF, after that you are wearing out the trans and fluid life.

 

Strange. Mine must be a one-off or something. My trans cooler is located on the passenger side, just above the bumper mounting bolt.

With that on my mind, I'm considering a somewhat 'wide' cooler that, when mounted, gets the air coming through the tow hook hole(for want of a better word) passing over it. Wouldn't mind a temp gauge, either. I'll have to look into those things. I do have a reese hitch and it's a 4x4, which I like to use once in a while.

 

Pretty detailed service listing for all years
FORD RANGER MAINTENANCE

 

The transmission has always been a week link for me. I put an external transmission cooler on every vehicle I own. My current ranger I had the tranny serviced at 90K and it was the first time it was serviced - I am the second owner. I plan on servicing it again at 140K. I do check the level and color of my tranny oil at every service. If it is not bright red I will change out the tranny oil.

 

You have to remember what most people consider changing the transmission fluid, dropping the pan, changing the filter and filling it back up only changes about 1/3rd of the total fluid. Personally I think 60k is the limit before fluid needs to be changed at least partially.

 

How do you get the other 2/3 out? Cooling line disconnect?

Do our transmissions have drain plugs? I saw one on a friend's older (1997) F-150.

 

I also need some atx service information. I may start a new thread on the topic because I am about to ask everything that nobody else has thus far....
4
1. Total atf capacity?

2. Wear parts that will possibly need replacement?

3. Removal of atf from torque converter necessary,unneccesary, impossible?

4. Aside from viscosity breakdown & filter blockage, affects of greatly overdue service?

5. Clogged filter/bad shift solenoid symptoms?

Thank you in advance & BOLO for my upcoming posts concerning some ATX issues I am having and need advice on how to remedy them & a bonus post for all you Vulcan 3/0 owners that want to give your anemic little V6 the booster shot it so desperately needs.

Thanks again,

Snowman

 

Many times, on this board members are advised to start a new thread for the reason you just gave.
I'm no trannie expert but I'll give you all I got in honor of the fact I just removed a heavy light fixture in a narrow stairwell whilst on a high ladder and need to sit.
Sorry I can't tell you I was just out in the shop rebuilding transmissions.
DO provide year, trim level, odometer and any pertinent maintenance history if you do make a fresh post.

If you are asking about a 3rd generation Ranger:
1) 10 qt. for the 2WD, 10.4 qt. for the 4WD (5R55E trans.)
2) With older units it's smart to do all of them. It's called a "hard rebuild" not a "soft parts only" rebuild. Call it a complete rebuild if you want.
There are drum-like things the bands (brakes) rub against, friction plates, O-rings, valve body assembly.
3) With age, replacing a TC with a new one or possibly a newly rebuilt one is smart. A friend's larger Ford had a TC with a drain plug but I've read here that Rangers do not have that.
Having clean fluid throughout a transmission's life means the TC has clean fluid too. This is why I do transmission drain & fills every 30K. Even if a little overkill, I know everything is clean.
So what if I spent a buck or two more by possibly doing service a bit early?
Dirty fluids get everywhere. I'd rather pump clean fluids everywhere in my vehicles. Power steering-coolant-engine oil, ATF-gear box lubes; keep it clean in the first place.
4) "....greatly overdue service" kind of speaks for itself. Rubber parts (O-rings) wear, thus leak, sooner, grit suspended in the fluid (the filter doesn't catch everything) accelerates friction plate wear, solenoid bore wear.
Other things like sprag springs weaken with time. Someone with more knowledge can list more.
5) Clogged filters can impede pump operation resulting in lower available pressures to engage the unit. Partially engaged units wear as they are not forced together strongly.
Bad solenoids may fail to engage strongly or fail to release when they're supposed to (hang-up).

Consider a trannie pan with a drain plug. I got mine for $11; granted it was used (and cheaper, but perfect).
I still have my old 4WD pan (no drain plug) looking for a new home.
Years ago, I offered it for postage cost only but a guy told me drain plug kits are so cheap, someone in your shoes should just install one.
I hate to toss a perfectly good item....but sometimes it's what to do.

The only 3.0 Vulcan in the family was 20 years ago in a '91 Ford Taurus but I'd love to know how you upped its power.
Happy New Year....