Transmission pops into neutral
Transmission pops into neutral
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l automatic 2wd with 250,000. While driving at or above 65mph the drive gear pops into neutral. The selector does not actually go to neutral but the engine free revs like it is. I have no engine codes and the o/d light is not flashing. Can anyone help me with this.
Welcome to the forum
What happens if you have "OD off" selected?
Is this the only symptom?
i.e. does Reverse engage slowly, or Drive, does it "flare" when shifting gears(engine REVs between shifts)
Its not actually shifting to Neutral, automatics are not like manual transmissions, they don't have separate "gears" like 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ect..., they have ratios via planetary gears sets
1999 Ranger 3.0l will have a 4R44E model automatic
Its the same as the 4R55E or 5R44E and 5R55E, any of these troubleshooting tips apply to your model, just FYI
At 250k miles you are at the upper end of transmission life and a full rebuild is closer to "the fix" than spending money on non-fixes
Automatics have clutches and brakes(bands) that have friction material that wears down over time, like brake pads/shoes do, or clutches on manual transmissions wear down/out
What happens if you have "OD off" selected?
Is this the only symptom?
i.e. does Reverse engage slowly, or Drive, does it "flare" when shifting gears(engine REVs between shifts)
Its not actually shifting to Neutral, automatics are not like manual transmissions, they don't have separate "gears" like 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ect..., they have ratios via planetary gears sets
1999 Ranger 3.0l will have a 4R44E model automatic
Its the same as the 4R55E or 5R44E and 5R55E, any of these troubleshooting tips apply to your model, just FYI
At 250k miles you are at the upper end of transmission life and a full rebuild is closer to "the fix" than spending money on non-fixes
Automatics have clutches and brakes(bands) that have friction material that wears down over time, like brake pads/shoes do, or clutches on manual transmissions wear down/out
I have not tested it with the O/D off yet. It does not have a problem engaging reverse or drive and it does not "flare" when shifting. I have been doing more research today. Right before it happens and loses power in drive the speedometer starts bouncing around and goes to 0mph. could this be a speed sensor issue?
Yes, maybe
Does the ABS light come on when speed signal is lost?
1998 to 2000 Rangers used the rear axle ABS sensor for the speed pulses that the speedometer and the computer use, its converted by GEM module to 8,000ppm(pulses per mile)
ABS light will usually come on if this sensor starts to fail, but not always, depends on how it fails or why
Its not an expensive sensor and easy to change so many just swap it out on speculation when speedometer issue comes up
OHMs test on this sensor should show 800-2,000ohms but in this case I am not sure it could be said to be "good" even in that range
Does the ABS light come on when speed signal is lost?
1998 to 2000 Rangers used the rear axle ABS sensor for the speed pulses that the speedometer and the computer use, its converted by GEM module to 8,000ppm(pulses per mile)
ABS light will usually come on if this sensor starts to fail, but not always, depends on how it fails or why
Its not an expensive sensor and easy to change so many just swap it out on speculation when speedometer issue comes up
OHMs test on this sensor should show 800-2,000ohms but in this case I am not sure it could be said to be "good" even in that range
Hey man I'm having a similar issue with my 2000 rwd ranger.
No.. I wish it was that.
What happened was the radiator developed a hole that allowed coolant to mix with the transmission fluid. The coolant ate away at the valve body and that's why I was having problems. Eventually it lost the main drive gear. I had to replace the whole transmission and lines and coolant lines. Cost was much less than the $6000 quoted to me by a local shop.
-Tim
What happened was the radiator developed a hole that allowed coolant to mix with the transmission fluid. The coolant ate away at the valve body and that's why I was having problems. Eventually it lost the main drive gear. I had to replace the whole transmission and lines and coolant lines. Cost was much less than the $6000 quoted to me by a local shop.
-Tim
That sucks!
No.. I wish it was that.
What happened was the radiator developed a hole that allowed coolant to mix with the transmission fluid. The coolant ate away at the valve body and that's why I was having problems. Eventually it lost the main drive gear. I had to replace the whole transmission and lines and coolant lines. Cost was much less than the $6000 quoted to me by a local shop.
-Tim
What happened was the radiator developed a hole that allowed coolant to mix with the transmission fluid. The coolant ate away at the valve body and that's why I was having problems. Eventually it lost the main drive gear. I had to replace the whole transmission and lines and coolant lines. Cost was much less than the $6000 quoted to me by a local shop.
-Tim
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