Transmission won't move
Transmission won't move
I have a 04 ranger 4x4 4,0 auto super cab. I pulled out of a parking lot and just after that I was going about 30 mph and all of a sudden I lost all forward gears. When I pulled over I discovered that reverse was also gone. When I run the shifter through the gears I can hear something spinning freely and a clicking sound and I can feel when it goes into neutral. My thought was the torque converter went out but I don't know. Any advice is greatly appreciated thanks.
Welcome to the forum
One-way clutch is more likely
You have a 5R55E automatic
Check fluid level engine OFF
Then check it engine Running
If the pump is working then fluid level should DROP when engine is running
If pump breaks then no movement
Google: 5r55e no forward or reverse
Lots of examples of that happening and several reasons for why
One-way clutch is more likely
You have a 5R55E automatic
Check fluid level engine OFF
Then check it engine Running
If the pump is working then fluid level should DROP when engine is running
If pump breaks then no movement
Google: 5r55e no forward or reverse
Lots of examples of that happening and several reasons for why
Try shifting in to Low, 1st, and see if it engages, but most likely the sprag(one-way clutch) is bad
All automatics run/operate on fluid pressure, at least 125psi is needed for forward gears and 175psi for reverse, which is why people often lose reverse FIRST when pressure is an issue, and why REVing the engine(increase Pump RPMs) can get engagement
The valve body and solenoids route this pressure to the bands and clutches to engage and disengage specific gears
The spags are mechanical clutches, one-way, this allows smoother shifting because changing shaft speeds don't effect it because its one-way
But if the sprag clutch mechanism breaks then there is no engagement, either way
When transmissions are rebuilt most shops don't replace the Pump or Sprags, its a 'soft parts' rebuild, just clutches and bands, just friction materials
This pretty much guaranties trans will only last 12-24months before a problem occurs, i.e. after warranty, lol
All automatics run/operate on fluid pressure, at least 125psi is needed for forward gears and 175psi for reverse, which is why people often lose reverse FIRST when pressure is an issue, and why REVing the engine(increase Pump RPMs) can get engagement
The valve body and solenoids route this pressure to the bands and clutches to engage and disengage specific gears
The spags are mechanical clutches, one-way, this allows smoother shifting because changing shaft speeds don't effect it because its one-way
But if the sprag clutch mechanism breaks then there is no engagement, either way
When transmissions are rebuilt most shops don't replace the Pump or Sprags, its a 'soft parts' rebuild, just clutches and bands, just friction materials
This pretty much guaranties trans will only last 12-24months before a problem occurs, i.e. after warranty, lol
Last edited by RonD; Sep 28, 2019 at 10:11 AM.
Transmission won't move
RonD thanks again, I tried putting it in low gear and I got nothing. I'm looking into the options of getting this one fixed if it doesn't cost to much. I may have to put a used one in. I really don't like the idea of a used one but I can get one from a wrecking yard for $450 with a 90 day warranty. I called a local transmission shop and the guy said he had been doing it for 40 years and that I didn't know what I was talking about when I told him I had a 5r55e. I think maybe I will take it to him LOL.
Well its good news and bad news if transmission shop guy doesn't know of a 5R55E by model number, it means few break down in your/his area, but also the bad news is he would be "going to school" on yours
If trans shops "knows" a transmission well, then you can bet its a POS and a real money maker for them, lol.
Used is OK, but still a roll of the dice.
You need a 2001 to 2011 5R55E from a Ranger or Mazda B4000 4x4, earlier had less sensors so won't work
2WD won't work and can not be adapted
4cyl and 3.0l used 5R44E so slightly different trans, all 4.0ls had 5R55E
Always install a new torque converter
If this is your first automatic install, you need to SEAT the torque converter onto and into the transmission BEFORE bolting trans to engine, if you don't you will break the front pump and trans will not work, and need a full rebuild to replace pump, so a BIG DEAL
And replacing rear main seal on the crank wouldn't be a bad idea
If trans shops "knows" a transmission well, then you can bet its a POS and a real money maker for them, lol.
Used is OK, but still a roll of the dice.
You need a 2001 to 2011 5R55E from a Ranger or Mazda B4000 4x4, earlier had less sensors so won't work
2WD won't work and can not be adapted
4cyl and 3.0l used 5R44E so slightly different trans, all 4.0ls had 5R55E
Always install a new torque converter
If this is your first automatic install, you need to SEAT the torque converter onto and into the transmission BEFORE bolting trans to engine, if you don't you will break the front pump and trans will not work, and need a full rebuild to replace pump, so a BIG DEAL
And replacing rear main seal on the crank wouldn't be a bad idea
Last edited by RonD; Sep 29, 2019 at 09:49 AM.
Transmission won't move
I'm reaching way out of my reach but I have to ask. What level of skill is needed to replace the one way clutch or even to install a rebuild kit. Again thanks for any advice is greatly appreciated.
With the videos available on the internet just basic mechanical skills are needed, and patience, lol, take your time and double check info if in doubt
All the hard engineering was done by the designers of the transmission, you are just taking it apart and putting it back together
All the hard engineering was done by the designers of the transmission, you are just taking it apart and putting it back together
Thanks
RonD, thank you very much. I think I may have found the solution to my problem. Ihave a friend that very good as long as he doesn't have to deal with computers. He will be helping me. Again thanks
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