U-Joints need replacing! How do I do it? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 10-10-2005
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U-Joints need replacing! How do I do it?

So yea, my rear U-Joint is toast. So I am wondering how do I replace it? I know how to remove the drive shaft, index everything and what not, but I have never actually done the joint. Any help is apreciated. Oh and how about we do the front while we are at it.. lol.. oh oh and Torque specs, if anybody has those I'd apreciate it!
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Old 10-10-2005
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you gotta take the snap ring out, then take a socket thats bigger than the joint and one thats smaller... put the one thats bigger underneath and the smaller above. just use a hammer to pound it out. to put the new one in i've used a C clamp to press it in
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Old 10-10-2005
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I hope this helps you.. .It's right from the HAYNES manual for 93-05 Rangers.. If your changin the U-Joints on the 99 then this should apply..

The Procedure for front is the same as rear according to the manual. It states that you should rear the section I copied for you here to do the front as well.. Also,, what torque specs do you need.. PM me and I will get you what ever I can..






You should be able to right-click on the photos and save them to your hard drive..
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  #4  
Old 10-10-2005
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something i know how to do, and jason doesnt!!!!

whoa!

thanks tommy reff, for teaching me.. lol

i have gone through more u-joints than i can count...(my old truck) i think i have broken 7? i dunno... lol
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2005
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Yeah you just have to pull the driveshaft out, remove the c-clips/snap rings, and use the sockets like Alon said. When you put the new ones in, you have to remove the ends so you can slide them into the openings in the driveshaft yoke and then press the endcaps onto the u-joint with a c-clamp or a u-joint press. It's kinda hard to explain but it should be easier when you're actually doing it.
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  #6  
Old 10-10-2005
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All that long travelin' crap is gonna destroy u-joints like there going out of style...
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  #7  
Old 10-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevelyn1015
something i know how to do, and jason doesnt!!!!
I'm sure thats not the only thing you know that I dont... lol..

Thanks all, I think I'v got an idea.. if anybody else has any tips/tricks that would be great!
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Old 10-10-2005
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wish i was in cali I would come over we could have it done in about 50 min tomarrow. but its a little bit of a drive
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Old 10-10-2005
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all you really need are a few tools...

pliers, hammer(s), wrench...

you dont have to have a press if you use a ball peen hammer... one small enough to fit inside the holes the ujoint tips go into.. place it on the dealie(i have no idea of these terms), and beat it in, with another hammer on top of that one, til you can get the clip in...
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Old 10-10-2005
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and some times a torch every once a while but cali doesnt have the nasty rust problems we have
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  #11  
Old 10-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
and some times a torch every once a while but cali doesnt have the nasty rust problems we have
Yea but have you driven in the ocean? I'll be sure to take pictures.. my driveshaft is orange (where I haven't painted)
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Old 10-10-2005
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ya you might need a torch only heat the u-joint right where the snap ring is. load that up with penitrating oil let it sit for a min then head away just remeber to keep the heat off the driveshaft
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Old 10-10-2005
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dont hit it with the hammer to get it back in... just use a c clamp and press it in
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2005
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i wouldn't ever heat it with a torch!
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Old 10-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevelyn1015
i wouldn't ever heat it with a torch!
christian I have done about oh dear 40 u-joints now you live in mich we dont have the lovelyness of un-rusted parts. hell on my truck you counldnt tell the difference between the drive shaft and the ujoint it was so badly rusted. if you heat the center of the spot right where the c-clip used to be you will be fine...
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  #16  
Old 10-10-2005
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ohhhh...

well, i haven't ever had the need for that...

what is rust?
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  #17  
Old 10-10-2005
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I'm looking for these high clearance u-joints i saw in a mag, would probably really help you out with your long travel, i'm still lookin, i've read the article about 20 damn times lol.
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  #18  
Old 10-10-2005
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what makes them more high clearance than other u-joints?
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  #19  
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Instead of being a cross, the two joints are stacked. The centerline of 2 of the bearing caps, is about 1/2" above the other 2 caps. I'm still searching for them, but essentially it spaces the driveshaft yoke away from the pinion yoke. And vise-a-versa for the tranny output. You have to install them in the front and rear of the shaft to cancel out vibrations that they could cause.
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  #20  
Old 10-10-2005
D.
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A tip..

Use a piece of chalk and mark the shaft on the transmission and axle ends. Put the shaft back on with the markings.
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Old 10-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.
A tip..

Use a piece of chalk and mark the shaft on the transmission and axle ends. Put the shaft back on with the markings.
very smart D the drive shaft is balanced to everything else!
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  #22  
Old 10-10-2005
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put some anti-sieze around the cap and inside the ear so it goes in easier.

also make sure to seat the needle bearings. i wouldnt use heat unless nesseccary. the ears can distort and u wont like the outcome. also be carful banging on the ears.
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  #23  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
put some anti-sieze around the cap and inside the ear so it goes in easier.

also make sure to seat the needle bearings. i wouldnt use heat unless nesseccary. the ears can distort and u wont like the outcome. also be carful banging on the ears.
well your not supposed to make it cherry red people...
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  #24  
Old 10-10-2005
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i usually cut the joint off before the cup and pound it out that way...
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  #25  
Old 10-10-2005
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you guys with the torches and hammers, what happends if your torching it a bit, and then beat it out with a hammer, and the end caps bust open?
Warm to hot grease everywhere, right? just be safe and use C-clamps, or a vise as mentioned in the pictures provided.
you guys with the Long travel, couldn't you just change your pinion angle to make your U-joints last longer? i think you'd only need some of those pinion angle wedge shaped blocks, right?
[yeah i'm think i've begun learning stuff in school, yay me]
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