31-spline diff choices
#1
31-spline diff choices
Help me decide what LS/Locker to get for my 31-spline explorer axel.
I am not 100% sold on weather I really need a full locker or not. Money is a consideration also. I don't really want to drop $700+ on a detroit locker or an ARB or something like that. I am pretty sure the axel has an open diff in it now which is just not going to cut it so thats coming out and it is getting re-geared also.
What are my real choices ?
I am assuming the ECTED is big money and out of my price range but who makes it and what a good price for one ?
I am not 100% sold on weather I really need a full locker or not. Money is a consideration also. I don't really want to drop $700+ on a detroit locker or an ARB or something like that. I am pretty sure the axel has an open diff in it now which is just not going to cut it so thats coming out and it is getting re-geared also.
What are my real choices ?
I am assuming the ECTED is big money and out of my price range but who makes it and what a good price for one ?
#3
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Originally Posted by Ranger1
Help me decide what LS/Locker to get for my 31-spline explorer axel.
I am not 100% sold on weather I really need a full locker or not. Money is a consideration also. I don't really want to drop $700+ on a detroit locker or an ARB or something like that. I am pretty sure the axel has an open diff in it now which is just not going to cut it so thats coming out and it is getting re-geared also.
What are my real choices ?
I am assuming the ECTED is big money and out of my price range but who makes it and what a good price for one ?
I am not 100% sold on weather I really need a full locker or not. Money is a consideration also. I don't really want to drop $700+ on a detroit locker or an ARB or something like that. I am pretty sure the axel has an open diff in it now which is just not going to cut it so thats coming out and it is getting re-geared also.
What are my real choices ?
I am assuming the ECTED is big money and out of my price range but who makes it and what a good price for one ?
#5
Originally Posted by buckgnarly
Get a locker now so you won't regret it later......now that that's been said, see if you can change out my 28 spline spider gears in my Elocker for 31 spline and buy it! If you contact Eaton they should be able to tell you. the carriers should be the same, but I'm not sur if you could switch them out.
#6
#7
I'm looking into the AussieLocker. It's simple and it's cheap (relativly). It doesn't have all the features of say an Eaton, but yea..
www.aussielocker.com
www.aussielocker.com
#8
Originally Posted by rngprerunner
I'm looking into the AussieLocker. It's simple and it's cheap (relativly). It doesn't have all the features of say an Eaton, but yea..
www.aussielocker.com
www.aussielocker.com
#14
#16
Like most automatic lockers, the Detroit has certain disadvantages for a daily driver.
I got my Ected from a guy on eBay who also has a store. He gave me a great price on it, the rebuild kit for my 8.8, etc.
You asked about gears back in January and I gave you this information then, here it is again:
Jeremy Ayers, J.T. Parts and Accessories (Specializing in Differential Parts and Service)
Phone: 425-879-6192
email: jtsdifferentialsaxles@comcast.net
Website: http://www.ringpinion.biz
I got my Ected from a guy on eBay who also has a store. He gave me a great price on it, the rebuild kit for my 8.8, etc.
You asked about gears back in January and I gave you this information then, here it is again:
Jeremy Ayers, J.T. Parts and Accessories (Specializing in Differential Parts and Service)
Phone: 425-879-6192
email: jtsdifferentialsaxles@comcast.net
Website: http://www.ringpinion.biz
#17
Originally Posted by n3elz
Like most automatic lockers, the Detroit has certain disadvantages for a daily driver.
I got my Ected from a guy on eBay who also has a store. He gave me a great price on it, the rebuild kit for my 8.8, etc.
You asked about gears back in January and I gave you this information then, here it is again:
Jeremy Ayers, J.T. Parts and Accessories (Specializing in Differential Parts and Service)
Phone: 425-879-6192
email: jtsdifferentialsaxles@comcast.net
Website: http://www.ringpinion.biz
I got my Ected from a guy on eBay who also has a store. He gave me a great price on it, the rebuild kit for my 8.8, etc.
You asked about gears back in January and I gave you this information then, here it is again:
Jeremy Ayers, J.T. Parts and Accessories (Specializing in Differential Parts and Service)
Phone: 425-879-6192
email: jtsdifferentialsaxles@comcast.net
Website: http://www.ringpinion.biz
oh yeah I still have his email. I should aks me. i wonder if he would give me a deal on the ected if i get the R&P's from he also.
#23
Sounds good...i think
Figure gears usually run $150-$200 x2 (~$400)
Master kits i think ~$100 x2 ($200)
if that's two ECTEDs that'd be sweet! but figuring it's one, that leaves ~$500 for the ECTED.
$1100. Guess that's about right.
Maybe look at getting an open/locked elec locker for the front too :) Then you'd have selectable lockers F&R with an open front and limited slip rear when deactivated. Now'd be the time to do it.
Figure gears usually run $150-$200 x2 (~$400)
Master kits i think ~$100 x2 ($200)
if that's two ECTEDs that'd be sweet! but figuring it's one, that leaves ~$500 for the ECTED.
$1100. Guess that's about right.
Maybe look at getting an open/locked elec locker for the front too :) Then you'd have selectable lockers F&R with an open front and limited slip rear when deactivated. Now'd be the time to do it.
#24
That would be an awesome setup.
Yes, Ben, I can help you. We might even get lucky on the shimming of the pinions and not have to press the bearings off again. Actually, theres a trick to doing the setup taking the old bearing off and sanding the inner radius to make it fit loose enough to put on and off by hand, and using the old one for finding pinion depth. A micrometer verifies the differenece between the old and new bearing depths, in case of differences.
Do you have adequate air? Impact guns make it easier and I can borrow some big ones to make doing the crush sleeve easier.
Also, what is your current gear ratio? Need to check the "carrier break" on the front dana 35 to see if we need a different carrier for 4.56 gears.
A bench grinder comes in handy also, if you have one. We may need to grind a bit behind the splines of one of the 31 spline axles to get it in the Ected far enough to get the c-clip on. Also, the center pin needs a flat ground on 1/2 it's length to let it pull out far enough once the 4.56 gear is on there to get the c-clips on (rear axle only).
Yes, Ben, I can help you. We might even get lucky on the shimming of the pinions and not have to press the bearings off again. Actually, theres a trick to doing the setup taking the old bearing off and sanding the inner radius to make it fit loose enough to put on and off by hand, and using the old one for finding pinion depth. A micrometer verifies the differenece between the old and new bearing depths, in case of differences.
Do you have adequate air? Impact guns make it easier and I can borrow some big ones to make doing the crush sleeve easier.
Also, what is your current gear ratio? Need to check the "carrier break" on the front dana 35 to see if we need a different carrier for 4.56 gears.
A bench grinder comes in handy also, if you have one. We may need to grind a bit behind the splines of one of the 31 spline axles to get it in the Ected far enough to get the c-clip on. Also, the center pin needs a flat ground on 1/2 it's length to let it pull out far enough once the 4.56 gear is on there to get the c-clips on (rear axle only).
#25
Hmm...c-clip this c-clip that...
sounds like it's time to experiment with a c-clip eliminator kit
I haven't seen the install directions to know how they actually work; if it eliminates the c-clip or just adds something to keep the wheel from falling off when an axle breaks. should be avail thru summitracing.com. Moser (MSR) & Strange (STR) both make them.
Summit part #s
MSR-9300 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.400 in. Diameter Seat, Stock Axles, Ford, 7.5/ 8.8 in., 10-Bolt, Kit
MSR-9333 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.533 in. Diameter Seat, Ford/ Mercury, 7.5/ 8.8 in., 10-Bolt, Kit
STR-A1092 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, Stock Axles, Drum Brake, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit
STR-A1090 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, Strange Axles, Drum Brake, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit
Don't know about the seat diameter. And the second Strange part listed requires you run Strange axles...which would probably be stronger than stock also
EDIT: Oh, and for those too lazy to go look, these run ~$150.
sounds like it's time to experiment with a c-clip eliminator kit
I haven't seen the install directions to know how they actually work; if it eliminates the c-clip or just adds something to keep the wheel from falling off when an axle breaks. should be avail thru summitracing.com. Moser (MSR) & Strange (STR) both make them.
Summit part #s
MSR-9300 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.400 in. Diameter Seat, Stock Axles, Ford, 7.5/ 8.8 in., 10-Bolt, Kit
MSR-9333 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.533 in. Diameter Seat, Ford/ Mercury, 7.5/ 8.8 in., 10-Bolt, Kit
STR-A1092 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, Stock Axles, Drum Brake, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit
STR-A1090 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, Strange Axles, Drum Brake, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit
Don't know about the seat diameter. And the second Strange part listed requires you run Strange axles...which would probably be stronger than stock also
EDIT: Oh, and for those too lazy to go look, these run ~$150.