swapping pvh style to live axle...how hard?
#1
swapping pvh style to live axle...how hard?
well, about 6 months ago I picked up a new vibration in my front end. I found that the inner bearings in the hub assemblies were shot. So I replaced the hub assembly. Well, it started again this morning on my way to work. It will not vibrate if I have the hubs in and locked though, but that is going to kill gas. Does anyone know of a specific sealed ball bearing setup that could be pressed in there to get rid of the ****ty needle bearings?
If not, I am considering getting rid of the crap design of the pvh hub setup(Ive got AVM manual's, but still dont like the "clamp on" attachment, plus this is my 3rd set) and going to the live axle setup like newer rangers. would i need any more or less, than the CV shafts and hub assemblies?
Or would it be better just to bite the bullet and do the SAS Ive been wanting.
If not, I am considering getting rid of the crap design of the pvh hub setup(Ive got AVM manual's, but still dont like the "clamp on" attachment, plus this is my 3rd set) and going to the live axle setup like newer rangers. would i need any more or less, than the CV shafts and hub assemblies?
Or would it be better just to bite the bullet and do the SAS Ive been wanting.
#3
so, w/o hubs locked in I get on avg 17mpg. and with hubs locked, on avg 15 to 16mpg. . I think I'll hit the drawing boards. If I were to do the SAS I would not be doing it like you did with the coil springs, I'd be running leaf springs, just for ease of things. I know there not all that simple, Ive done a few nissan's.
#4
Originally Posted by UNCCRang49
well, about 6 months ago I picked up a new vibration in my front end. I found that the inner bearings in the hub assemblies were shot. So I replaced the hub assembly. Well, it started again this morning on my way to work. It will not vibrate if I have the hubs in and locked though, but that is going to kill gas. Does anyone know of a specific sealed ball bearing setup that could be pressed in there to get rid of the ****ty needle bearings?
If not, I am considering getting rid of the crap design of the pvh hub setup(Ive got AVM manual's, but still dont like the "clamp on" attachment, plus this is my 3rd set) and going to the live axle setup like newer rangers. would i need any more or less, than the CV shafts and hub assemblies?
Or would it be better just to bite the bullet and do the SAS Ive been wanting.
If not, I am considering getting rid of the crap design of the pvh hub setup(Ive got AVM manual's, but still dont like the "clamp on" attachment, plus this is my 3rd set) and going to the live axle setup like newer rangers. would i need any more or less, than the CV shafts and hub assemblies?
Or would it be better just to bite the bullet and do the SAS Ive been wanting.
#6
Originally Posted by UNCCRang49
so, w/o hubs locked in I get on avg 17mpg. and with hubs locked, on avg 15 to 16mpg. . I think I'll hit the drawing boards. If I were to do the SAS I would not be doing it like you did with the coil springs, I'd be running leaf springs, just for ease of things. I know there not all that simple, Ive done a few nissan's.
coils are not that hard...
#8
Originally Posted by zabeard
John how can you say that when i read in other threads that if you knew how much work it was going to be you would not have done it in the first place.
Now that it's over I'm glad I did it. But I wonder in truth if I would have taken it on.
There are simpler ways to do it than coils and many take that route.
#9
only thing hard with coils is the track bar and drag link, line those up and your good to go.
most D44s from a ford do not need the Cs ground off to adjust caster, then either make a coil hoop mount or buy some buckets like you did.
leaf springs you have to make front and rear mounts for the springs.
both types require the pain steering conversion to a gear box, lines and frame mount not to mention the intermediate shaft.
most D44s from a ford do not need the Cs ground off to adjust caster, then either make a coil hoop mount or buy some buckets like you did.
leaf springs you have to make front and rear mounts for the springs.
both types require the pain steering conversion to a gear box, lines and frame mount not to mention the intermediate shaft.
#10
Originally Posted by zabeard
only thing hard with coils is the track bar and drag link, line those up and your good to go.
most D44s from a ford do not need the Cs ground off to adjust caster, then either make a coil hoop mount or buy some buckets like you did.
leaf springs you have to make front and rear mounts for the springs.
both types require the pain steering conversion to a gear box, lines and frame mount not to mention the intermediate shaft.
most D44s from a ford do not need the Cs ground off to adjust caster, then either make a coil hoop mount or buy some buckets like you did.
leaf springs you have to make front and rear mounts for the springs.
both types require the pain steering conversion to a gear box, lines and frame mount not to mention the intermediate shaft.
With coils and radius arms you can do a lot with caster with the 2 to 7 degree c-bushings that are available. I'm running 4 degree in mine.
I didn't have to buy the buckets actually -- they came off a truck that was being cut apart for scrap at work...one of the advantages of working at a steel mill where steel is recycled. But they're available off of other old trucks or Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells the same ones I have. I probably would buy more "generic" weld-on ones if I did it again.
#11
Only 4? Tracks good? Does not wonder? I Only have 4 but I think it could be better. I hear several people running 5.5 or 6, so on my D44 that is what I am aiming for. My pinion angle will actually be better with the D44 and more caster than with the D30 and 4* of caster. I am kinda excited about it.
Did you take yours to the alignment shop for toe?
Did you take yours to the alignment shop for toe?
#12
It's hard to tell, Zach. My steering box is absolute crap and I'm replacing it this weekend. It actually has a cracked sector shaft. I'm told it was probably that way when I bought it but it's been "opening up". One of the hazards of buying used on eBay, lol.
Once that part of the steering is out of the loop, I'll revisit it. I've got some 7 degree here as well...or almost a set of them. The set was sent to me with three 7 degree and one 2 degree and I have to get back to the vendor to get it straightened out.
Various changes I made improved the wandering -- but the steering box still has too much play so you still have to fight to keep it centered on rougher roads.
No, no formal alignment yet.
Once that part of the steering is out of the loop, I'll revisit it. I've got some 7 degree here as well...or almost a set of them. The set was sent to me with three 7 degree and one 2 degree and I have to get back to the vendor to get it straightened out.
Various changes I made improved the wandering -- but the steering box still has too much play so you still have to fight to keep it centered on rougher roads.
No, no formal alignment yet.
#15
so, Im considering more and more the SAS. especially since I just ran into a awesome deal. a buddy of mine that I have known for a few years now, just announced that he is getting rid of the axles he was going to do his explorer with, and for a reasonable price. how does front and rear d44 widetrack axles out of a waggy sound?
#20
#22
ring size isnt that much smaller, its a 8.5", and there are more upgrades to make it stronger. I have the 8.8 28 spline. the d44 is 30 spline. I want to run 35s, no more than 37s.
Dana 44 & Dana 44 TTB
Applications: Front and rear
Type: Mainly semi-floating, although there were some very rare full-floating units
Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.30 Inches
Spline count: 30 (after '72; prior to '72, some were 19-spline)
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.5 Inch
Factory ratios: 2.76:1 through 5.89:1
Maximum tire size for stock axle: 35-inch
Weight (solid axle): 240 Pounds
Strong point: Wide availability and significant aftermarket support in parts and upgrades
Weak point: Carrier and spider gears, U-joints, ring-and-pinion
Building secrets: Upgrade the stock carrier and spider gears because they're notoriously weak. Also, if you've indexed the axle to improve pinion angle, use a diff cover from a '78 or '79 Ford ¾-ton high-pinion '44 because it allows for a larger quantity of lube and a higher fill point
Ford 8.8-Inch
Application: Rear
Type: Semi-floating
Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.31 Inches
Spline count: 28, 31
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.8 Inch
Factory ratios: 2.47:1 through 4.10:1
Maximum tire size for stock axle: 37-inch
Strong point: Approximately the same pinion diameter as a Dana 60, mass availability
Weak point: C-clips
Building secrets: The stock diff cover is very thin, so replace it with a quality aftermarket cover. Also, apply silicone to the pinion splines because some builders have found that they're prone to leaking
Aftermarket alternatives: Currie Industries, Custom Differentials, DTS Custom Service, Mountain Off Road Enterprises
Dana 44 & Dana 44 TTB
Applications: Front and rear
Type: Mainly semi-floating, although there were some very rare full-floating units
Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.30 Inches
Spline count: 30 (after '72; prior to '72, some were 19-spline)
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.5 Inch
Factory ratios: 2.76:1 through 5.89:1
Maximum tire size for stock axle: 35-inch
Weight (solid axle): 240 Pounds
Strong point: Wide availability and significant aftermarket support in parts and upgrades
Weak point: Carrier and spider gears, U-joints, ring-and-pinion
Building secrets: Upgrade the stock carrier and spider gears because they're notoriously weak. Also, if you've indexed the axle to improve pinion angle, use a diff cover from a '78 or '79 Ford ¾-ton high-pinion '44 because it allows for a larger quantity of lube and a higher fill point
Ford 8.8-Inch
Application: Rear
Type: Semi-floating
Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.31 Inches
Spline count: 28, 31
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.8 Inch
Factory ratios: 2.47:1 through 4.10:1
Maximum tire size for stock axle: 37-inch
Strong point: Approximately the same pinion diameter as a Dana 60, mass availability
Weak point: C-clips
Building secrets: The stock diff cover is very thin, so replace it with a quality aftermarket cover. Also, apply silicone to the pinion splines because some builders have found that they're prone to leaking
Aftermarket alternatives: Currie Industries, Custom Differentials, DTS Custom Service, Mountain Off Road Enterprises
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k.blakeley
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03-02-2008 03:16 PM