For Sale: Aussie Locker part # XD-13535 - NC - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 10-20-2010
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Aussie Locker part # XD-13535 - NC

Aussie locker for D35 IFS in 98+ Rangers. Aussie Locker part # XD-13535. It was in an axle I bought from another member. The pins broke so I have a new pin and spring kit from Aussie locker included with the sale. Price is $150+ shipping. Locker is located in Cameron, NC 28326.
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EDIT: Just realized I forgot to put (NC) in the title even though it's in the thread...if a mod could add it for me I would appreciate it.

Last edited by Toms994x4; 10-21-2010 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 10-20-2010
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Fixed the thread title.
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Old 10-20-2010
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Sale pending.
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Old 10-21-2010
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Still for sale.
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Old 10-21-2010
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All arguing aside, my offer still stands.


GB :)
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Old 10-21-2010
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Great deal! Somebody should get this at that price.
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Old 10-21-2010
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Quote:
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All arguing aside, my offer still stands.


GB :)
Your "offer" was a good joke. Stop wasting your time and mine.
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Old 10-21-2010
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Great deal! Somebody should get this at that price.
Thanks Matt, I figured it was a fair price for a used locker plus a brand new pin and spring kit which was $20.
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Old 10-22-2010
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its a pretty fair offer, i bought my old aussie off a member on here for 165 shipped i think, or 150 shipped..either way great deal.
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Old 10-27-2010
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Old 10-27-2010
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Did you run this with a rear locker installed? Ever have it in the snow with both ends locked? Id like to have it but im afraid i wont like the problems associated with full locked diffs and snow.
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Old 10-27-2010
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Did you run this with a rear locker installed? Ever have it in the snow with both ends locked? Id like to have it but im afraid i wont like the problems associated with full locked diffs and snow.
No, this locker was in a front axle I bought. I bought 2 front axles with 4.10's and a rear axle with 4.10's from a different site. I never put the axles under my truck so I can't answer your question. I'm collecting parts to regear and install lockers all at once.
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Old 10-27-2010
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Quick question on these lockers. Hope you don't mind. I can't find the info anymore.

I once read somewhere (possibly TRS) that if you have 4:10 gears then you have to remove either the carrier or the ring gear to actually install the locker. Something along those lines. Basically it was about something being too large to actually get the locker parts into the carrier. I can't remember exactly. They stated the install went ok with anything higher than 4:10 gears, as it was just a drop in install, but not with 4:10s.

OP or anyone know the low down on this?

If nothing else then this'll be a free bump.


EDIT: Here's the post that I was thinking about. Finally found it. https://www.ranger-forums.com/f37/fr...79/#post912670



GB :)

Last edited by Bird76Mojo; 10-28-2010 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 10-28-2010
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Quote:
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I once read somewhere (possibly TRS) that if you have 4:10 gears then you have to remove either the carrier or the ring gear to actually install the locker.
I had to pull the carrier and remove the ring gear to install the Aussie in my 4.10 D35.
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Old 10-28-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0fox View Post
Did you run this with a rear locker installed? Ever have it in the snow with both ends locked? Id like to have it but im afraid i wont like the problems associated with full locked diffs and snow.
I have an Aussie front and Torsen LSD rear. Using the Aussie on snow is effective but you will definitely notice it, especially if there is some traction available. Each time you get on the throttle in 4WD, even lightly, the locker re-engages and, chances are that the splines in the locker will be slightly or totally misaligned when it does. When that happens, there can be a momentary pull in one direction or the other until everything equalizes. Not necessarily dangerous but it will get your attention.

It is absolutely essential that the 2 front tires are the same circumference or that momentary pull will change to a constant pull in the direction of the smaller tire. If the difference is significant, the pull becomes very strong. I'm not talking about different sizes printed on the sidewall; this is just from one tire being worn more than the other. To get acceptable tracking, I had to measure all 4 and pick the 2 that were virtually identical in circumference and install them on the front.

Whether you're on snow or off road or anywhere else, a front locker (with matched tires) definitely prefers straight ahead to turning whenever you're applying power.

Even with its quirks, I think a front locker is OK. The Aussie is compact, relatively cheap, and not too difficult to install. Mine has never given me any problems.
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Old 10-28-2010
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Thank you for clarifying that Bob. As for removal/installation, I took the carrier out, removed the ring gear, and removed the locker. Pretty simple process.
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Old 10-28-2010
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So other than shimming up the locker itself to specs and buying new ring gear bolts (or threadlocking your old ones) there's nothing else involved in the install that's terribly bad? As in, not requiring a professional to set up anything with a dial indicator or checking/confirming gear mesh after re-installing the ring gear and locker?

For the record I have searched here, and on Google (all forums) on installing a locker but there aren't a whole lot of good threads on the process..


GB :)
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Old 10-28-2010
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The install does not affect the pinion to ring gear setup. I Loctited and reused the original ring gear bolts.

Generic Aussie Locker Instructions
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Old 10-28-2010
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I read through those instructions and they just confuse me a little. The part about setting it up and installing the c-clips got me, since the axles would still be in the truck, and the diff would be out and on the bench. The rear seems like it would be so much easier than the front.


I've changed rear axle shafts, seals, etc, but I suppose this is something I better not try after all.

OP - Thanks for letting me clutter up your thread. This is good info for anyone considering a front locker. Also, thanks to rwenzing for the info and links!



GB :)
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Old 10-28-2010
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There aren't any c-clips. The instructions that came with it make it seem harder than it really is. Also, the instructions are generic, as in they work for c-clip and non c-clip differentials.
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Old 10-31-2010
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Bump $150 shipped
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Old 11-07-2010
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Old 11-14-2010
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Old 12-02-2010
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Old 12-03-2010
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EDIT: Nevermind.
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