How-To: Rear Disc Brake Conversion on Stock 28-Spline Ranger Rear-End - Page 6 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Engine & Drivetrain How-To & DIY articles pertaining to the 'Engine & Drivetrain' in this sub-forum.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #126  
Old 03-09-2018
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Upstate,SC
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
I really wanted to do this conversion. But I can't source the parts for cheap. I refuse to pay $200 for the brackets that are on ebay now. Seems like I went out and bought everything I'd be close to $500.. arg.!

Can't say I have ever had problems with the rear drum brakes in all reality though. Would like to do this but just seems out of reach...arg!

-Nigel
An LKQ U-pull-it yard, not to far from me, said they sell the brakets for $50 a pair, when they have them. It may be beneficial to roll up your sleves and go junk yarding. Calipers are $15 to $25 a pair. I wouldn't reuse rotors unless they are rust free. Also,new lines aren't very expensive unless you go braided SS.
Reply With Quote
  #127  
Old 03-09-2018
NewShockerGuy's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: NOVA
Posts: 700
If there were any junk yards around me I'd totally check it out. Unfortunately there aren't.. too many people buy new cars all the time here that junk yards aren't a thing..lol. Up in PA by my parents there are a ton but that's too hard to go back and forth.

For a DD I don't think I ever needed more brakes than what the ranger has by default. It would just be nice to have all discs/rotors but that's ok. I haven't run into a problem with the rear drums and they are easy enough to change/replace super cheap as well.

-Nigel
Reply With Quote
  #128  
Old 04-23-2018
Bird76Mojo's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central, IL.
Posts: 1,270
I may be the only one who wishes they never did this mod. I bought all new parts, some more than once. The caliper brackets are perfectly spaced/centered where the brake rotor is directly in the middle of the bracket, and both sides still want to eat the inside or inboard brake pads in just a few months. I've greased and re-greased the slide pins, and checked to confirm that the calipers can move on them easily, and they do.

I also rebuilt by limited slip at the same time, and had installed new axle seals just prior to that. I stacked em' in there tightly, so when checking axle endplay, it was virtually non-existent.

It boggles the mind why these things are doing this. It's all so basic. And, no, the parking brake isn't dragging. I left a little slack in the cables when I fabricated the cable-end extension pieces.


GB :)
Reply With Quote
  #129  
Old 04-25-2018
vista4.0's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Beaver Falls, PA
Posts: 2,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
I may be the only one who wishes they never did this mod. I bought all new parts, some more than once. The caliper brackets are perfectly spaced/centered where the brake rotor is directly in the middle of the bracket, and both sides still want to eat the inside or inboard brake pads in just a few months. I've greased and re-greased the slide pins, and checked to confirm that the calipers can move on them easily, and they do.

I also rebuilt by limited slip at the same time, and had installed new axle seals just prior to that. I stacked em' in there tightly, so when checking axle endplay, it was virtually non-existent.

It boggles the mind why these things are doing this. It's all so basic. And, no, the parking brake isn't dragging. I left a little slack in the cables when I fabricated the cable-end extension pieces.


GB :)
Cant say you are the only one. On my lifted truck it works great. I get even wear and couldnt be happier.

On my lowered truck is a totally different animal. Exact same problems you are describing. Cant figure it out... only thing helping me is the truck is on jack stands in the garage getting body work. Not worried about it right now.
Reply With Quote
  #130  
Old 04-25-2018
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Upstate,SC
Posts: 18
I believe the wear problem is on the 7.5 rear. I wonder if the mounting is slightly different than the 8.8.
Reply With Quote
  #131  
Old 04-25-2018
Bird76Mojo's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central, IL.
Posts: 1,270
My truck has a factory installed 8.8" - 4.10 - TracLok and is wearing the inside pads like crazy.



GB :)
Reply With Quote
  #132  
Old 04-25-2018
Bird76Mojo's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central, IL.
Posts: 1,270
The only thing I can think of would be when turning corners quickly, the outside axle when cornering is forcing itself inward and pushing against the inboard brake pad.

Other than that, I'm lost as to why it would do this.

I plan to get it on jackstands this weekend to have a closer look.


GB :)
Reply With Quote
  #133  
Old 04-25-2018
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Upstate,SC
Posts: 18
Oh-kay, I thought you had the 7.5. I wonder if the C clips are worn and allowing the axles to slide in and out to much. I'm just spitballing here and seeing if anything makes sense.
Reply With Quote
  #134  
Old 04-25-2018
Bird76Mojo's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central, IL.
Posts: 1,270
Everything looked perfect when I rebuilt the TrakLoc. C-clips, new friction discs, and I added a couple of the old steels to "tighten up" the limited slip while I was at it. So the axle shafts had nearly zero endplay.


For the life of me, I can't see why it's doing it. I may have to add more spacer-washers on each side to make the rotor ride further away from the center of the caliper bracket and inside brake pad..


GB :)
Reply With Quote
  #135  
Old 04-25-2018
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Upstate,SC
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
Everything looked perfect when I rebuilt the TrakLoc. C-clips, new friction discs, and I added a couple of the old steels to "tighten up" the limited slip while I was at it. So the axle shafts had nearly zero endplay.


For the life of me, I can't see why it's doing it. I may have to add more spacer-washers on each side to make the rotor ride further away from the center of the caliper bracket and inside brake pad..


GB :)
It sounds like you cover your rear end pretty good. LOL

Shimming the calipers or brackets is the only thing left that I can think of.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale: 8.8 31 spline disc brake conversion kit bigandrw Engine & Drivetrain 1 11-23-2010 08:44 AM
31 spline 8.8 or keep stock 28 spline? ZWilson07 Drivetrain Tech 4 11-03-2010 06:03 PM
Eldorado/Mustang SVO Rear Disc Brake Conversion V8 Level II General Technical & Electrical 38 09-11-2007 08:01 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:47 AM.


© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.