Camshaft position sensor synchro, and alignment tool:












1) Clean crankshaft damper so you can see timing marks. Turn crankshaft until TDC (0 degree) mark lines up with crankshaft position sensor:




2) Locate camshaft position sensor, near firewall, and close to passenger's side valve cover.

3) Remove 2 5.5mm hex head screws, and remove camshaft position sensor (pull straight up)

4) Check position of synchro shaft. If it looks like this, then the crank is on the correct stroke, and the synchro can be removed:







5) If synchro shaft looks like this, then turn crank 360 degrees:




6) Remove 10mm hex head screw holding synchro, and pull synchro straight out. Pay attention to location of notch in synchro housing.


7) With new synchro housing in the same position as old synchro, position shaft in this position, and drop in hole. Note: coat cam gear with plenty of oil, before dropping into position




8) replace 10mm hex head screw, and retaining washer (do not tighten)


9) Use synchro alignment tool to align synchro shaft to housing:







10) Tighten 10mm hex head screw, and remove alignment tool


11) Replace camshaft position sensor, and tighten 5.5mm hex head screws

 

What tune? You may have screwed up the PCM

Have you replaced the screamin demon with the OEM coilpack?

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor, and replaced the air filter with an OEM paper filter?

It sounds to me like you have been successful in screwing up a great vehicle with useless mods! Congratulations!

 

hey.. i appreciate what help you've been, but the sarcastic remarks are not needed nor are they helping.

THE tune.. the tune for my cam, injectors, and heads

 

The MODs get even worse!

Vehicle manufacturers go to great lengths to make their vehicles as efficient as possible, due to CAF standards.
A lot of engineering goes into the intake system, along with fuel control, and optimized cam parameters (lift, duration, and overlap).
Without VVT, you either get great low end torque, or great high end HP.

With the changes you have made, it will probably never run right again.

 

Lol wow dude ur ridiculous. The motor ran like a top before I tried adjusting the cam position sensor because I was having a little hesitation and figured that had to be it. This motor has been in another truck for 30,000 miles and never had an issue. It has nothing to do with the heads cam or injectors. If those things made an engine never run right again then damn there are millions of vehicles that fly by u that must just run like crap. You obviously don't know much about building engines if you think Cam and heads are going to make an engine not run right. Its called tuning.

 

"little hesitation"

Are the operative words!!!

I'm done.........

 

Although it may seem counterintuitive, in most street engines with sequential EFI, the injectors fire on closed intake valves. Firing fuel onto the back side of the hot valve improves vaporization which increases fuel economy and reduces emissions. Since the fuel tables in the PCM are set up for this, firing the injectors at the wrong time can result in A/F errors.

So, the first thing to verify when timing the CMP sensor, absolutely and positively, is the stroke that the engine is on. It can easily appear to be timed correctly with the tool but 360 crank degrees off (180 cam degrees off). If this is the case, then you can expect fueling errors and hesitation.

Second, be sure that you're using the correct alignment tool. What works in a 5.0 will not be correct for a 4.0. The tools are also very different for early (Hall Effect) and late (Variable Reluctance) CMP sensors.

 

6472 is the tool I'm using.

I've pulled the no 1 cyl plug, put a finger over the hole to feel the air being pushed out. Once it stops blowing out do I keep turning to the 0 degree mark cause that's what I'm doing.

 

Ok I am going to bring this thread back from the dead. I just replaced my cam synchro today using the marker method and I lined it up the best i could. I drove my truck after and the problem seems to be fixed, but I am afraid that my being off even a tiny bit is going to come back and haunt me. Also, before replacing the part, I oiled the synchro with 10w40 motor oil. Anyone have any input as far as me doing this correctly? Again the problem seems to be fixed but I've only driven a few miles with it. This was hard as hell to do!!! Not like the part is in a accesible position by any means! Thanks

 

I bought a new synchronizer and it came with a "Blue" tool with no numbers on it. 1998 Ford Ranger, v6, 3.0 L. How can I tell if this is correct tool? Thanks for any help. This forum is great....newbee, Steve

 

Your 98 has the single tooth in the synchronizer that passes in front of the sensor, the other type looks like a half moon.
The "Blue" tool puts the tooth a bit off to the slot in the synchronizer, which is correct. (like the OTC branded one in this thread)
There is a black one, but it sets the tooth in the middle, that's for a totally different engine (I would have to check to see which one).
The blue is correct.

 

Ok, found TDC marker after a lot sanding and cleaning. Had friend put finger in number one spark plug hole and stopped when air was pushing out. Continued to rotate crank until TDC. Removed sensor and looked ar the tab locacation. ( 9 o'clock). Hmm did not look right. rotated crank another 360, tab was at 3 o'clock. Still didn't line up right after two more rotations. So went back to finger in the spark plug hole method lined up TDC and removed the synchronizer. Installed blue tool. Started to inserted tool at 75 degrees counter clockwise. Seated the synchronizer in hole. Tab and tool arrow landed at about 11 O'clock. I believe it look correct. Sensor went right on in the same location it was before removal. So long story short, was the original synchronizer install wrong?

 

Don't worry about where the synchronizer was, mine was out more then 90 degrees and the truck ran, although poorly. Probably some doofus put it in and didn't know what he was doing and it had been that way for years.
It pinged and had very little power.
Just follow the instructions in this thread and you'll be fine.

Find compression with #1 at TDC. (the "ZERO" mark on the harmonic balancer, not the "TDC" mark)
Use the tool to line up the synchronizer and mount the whole thing so the sensor wires to it are not stressed out.
That's it in a nut shell.

11 O'clock sounds right where the sensor wires are comfortable.