"2 grueling hours of masking" aka Fx4wannabe01's Tease 5.1 - Page 4 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Exterior Semi-Tech General discussion of exterior for the Ford Ranger.
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  #76  
Old 06-05-2009
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looks good Shane! Whats up with that old Flowmaster on the floor?
you calling a less than year old flowmaster old? lol.

I took it off for a change. It's soooooo nice to drive now. I put my first aftermarket muffler on the truck, a Dynomax Ultra Flo Oval 'race' muffler. Straight through with stainless woven around the tube, then fiberglass packing. Alot like a magnaflow. Only reason why I have it, is because summit had it for $70, and there was a $50 rebate for it.
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  #77  
Old 06-05-2009
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Dude those emblems look awesome! You do some great work man
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  #78  
Old 06-05-2009
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I think I'm going to go ahead and start pulling the tape. damnit...I hate this part. My mistakes in masking always shows. At least to my eyes. lol. Keep ya'll updated...
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  #79  
Old 06-05-2009
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Post them pics as soon as your done!
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  #80  
Old 06-05-2009
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pic before clearcoat...2 coats of clear on it now...




Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 05-25-2010 at 03:39 AM. Reason: Updated URL
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  #81  
Old 06-05-2009
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no close up shots
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  #82  
Old 06-05-2009
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c,mon shane, closeups!!!
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  #83  
Old 06-05-2009
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Holy hell those are BA I want to do the same thing only flat black
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  #84  
Old 06-05-2009
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This mod = FAIL.







Long story short, the Duplicolor Automotove Clearcoat didn't agree with the Base coat. So damn pissed right now.
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  #85  
Old 06-05-2009
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^^ that sucks.
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  #86  
Old 06-05-2009
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that's what happen with my tails... F* clear coat sometimes!
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  #87  
Old 06-05-2009
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Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
This mod = FAIL.







Long story short, the Duplicolor Automotove Clearcoat didn't agree with the Base coat. So damn pissed right now.


ANY of Duplicolors products shouldnt be used with real paint. Their clearcoat is a laquer product and it will react with so much its not even funny. It might wrinkle it, it might have adhesion problems or it might reverse the product because the solvents are too aggressive.

Use real paint next time. It costs more, but it wont make you redo it either. If you were closer id let you use what you need out of my paint cabinet of doom. It wont take but 4 ounces of clear to put two coats on both of those.
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  #88  
Old 06-05-2009
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still able to acetone/strip them?
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  #89  
Old 06-05-2009
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ANY of Duplicolors products shouldnt be used with real paint. Their clearcoat is a laquer product and it will react with so much its not even funny. It might wrinkle it, it might have adhesion problems or it might reverse the product because the solvents are too aggressive.

Use real paint next time. It costs more, but it wont make you redo it either. If you were closer id let you use what you need out of my paint cabinet of doom. It wont take but 4 ounces of clear to put two coats on both of those.
something that would've been nice to know when i mentioned it earlier in the thread... oh well. live and learn. Time to spend $20 on new emblems.




I sprayed another coat of clear on one emblem....going to go out and see how it ended up. Then i'll play with acetone or laquer thinner to try and bring it down to the base. hopefully.
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  #90  
Old 06-06-2009
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Well...........how did it turn out?
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  #91  
Old 06-06-2009
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Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
something that would've been nice to know when i mentioned it earlier in the thread... oh well. live and learn. Time to spend $20 on new emblems.




I sprayed another coat of clear on one emblem....going to go out and see how it ended up. Then i'll play with acetone or laquer thinner to try and bring it down to the base. hopefully.
My bad. I usually try to respond to the paint related threads. Its the only thing iknow well lol.
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  #92  
Old 06-06-2009
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Bro...it's alright. I'm learning and it's part of the process. No biggie...I'll go pick up a 1/2 pint of clear that the shop reccomends that's compatible with the color i'm using.



I had the shop mix it up as an enamel(that could be considered a fast drying tractor enamel), and I used a medium reducer, 4 parts paint to 1 part reducer. I'm using a disposable aerosol spray gun setup that uses a bottle and a pickup up to the aerosol propellent. The problem I'm finding with the 'gun' i'm using, is I can't mist it on like I want to. It's a heavy wet coat only sorta sprayer, which seemed to work just fine in the end as far as result, just made it uncomfortable when spraying it. Worried it was just too thick.

As an enamel, I can clear it and be okay, right? Any advice you wanna throw out, please do. Don't hesitate, I'm learning!! lol. If it's rattle can, i'm pretty good. But if it's real paint, i'm a noob. lol.

Here's a pic of the can and the sprayer...


*Don't mind the mess on the table, it's one of the few areas i've yet to go through in the shop. lol.

Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 05-25-2010 at 03:41 AM. Reason: Updated URL
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  #93  
Old 06-06-2009
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Well...........how did it turn out?
Read up young one. lol.





Masking was pretty good with a hardly noticeable blemished outcome. I should've have sprayed them the night after I got the masking done, left a very little bit of sticky residue when i pulled the masking after color that I cured with a little bit of goo gone on one emblem, then left on the other.

Everything up until the clear, was perfect and glorious. The clear didn't work well at all on the real automotive paint that I used. Leave and learn. Oh well. Make it even better next time.

I attempted to take care of the finish by being stupid with laquer thinner....didn't work out so well. That emblem is a complete goner. The emblem that got a second coat of clear ended up pretty unique...the finish looks like it's a suntan thats peeling off, or a snakeskin on the color parts. chrome is gorgeous. Damnit it looks hot(it's sitting next to be), but, not hot enough unfortunately.

Working on pics...will be up momentarily. And sure, why not, i'll show off the blemishes on the best out of the two. lol.
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  #94  
Old 06-06-2009
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Pic time of the not completely destroyed emblem. lol.


You can see the fishscale in alot of the pics. The masking job is actually quite nice, though the close ups look ugly, but I dont care. Somebody take this idea and do better. lol. I'm in the process of finding thinner masking tape, with a lighter tackyness. Ithink it'll make masking alot easier.

I know now that I need to take more time after paint pulling the masking and making it perfect. That's what alot of the flaws are pretty much based on. I've got one emblem on-hand thats in perfect, acetoned shape...ready for masking. We'll see when I feel like getting to work.

At 12" away, the flaws are virtually invisible. But ya'll asked for closeups, so.....

On with the pics...











The G is the fubared...

Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 05-25-2010 at 03:42 AM. Reason: Updated URL's
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  #95  
Old 06-06-2009
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im no expert in the paint field but what about the tape that the experts use to do flames on vehicles and motorcycles its gotta be thinner than the blue stuff that tape is thick as hell and the tape im thinking of is like 1/4" wide so it might be a little easier to do the letters like i said no expert just throwing it out there
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  #96  
Old 06-06-2009
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I was thinking that too. Theres gotta be better tape for precision stuff like this...

its hard to tell whats what here, but seems like a decent selection:

http://www.autobodysupply.net/URLrew...m&Redirected=Y
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  #97  
Old 06-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
Read up young one. lol.





Masking was pretty good with a hardly noticeable blemished outcome. I should've have sprayed them the night after I got the masking done, left a very little bit of sticky residue when i pulled the masking after color that I cured with a little bit of goo gone on one emblem, then left on the other.

Everything up until the clear, was perfect and glorious. The clear didn't work well at all on the real automotive paint that I used. Leave and learn. Oh well. Make it even better next time.

I attempted to take care of the finish by being stupid with laquer thinner....didn't work out so well. That emblem is a complete goner. The emblem that got a second coat of clear ended up pretty unique...the finish looks like it's a suntan thats peeling off, or a snakeskin on the color parts. chrome is gorgeous. Damnit it looks hot(it's sitting next to be), but, not hot enough unfortunately.

Working on pics...will be up momentarily. And sure, why not, i'll show off the blemishes on the best out of the two. lol.
Lol. Thanks for the re-cap but I was wondering how the extra coat of clear went. The masking job isn't bad, it is a lot better than I would have done. Where did you pick up that spray gun at? I have never seen one before. I say this next time do the Ranger in GO and the rest DWB.
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  #98  
Old 06-06-2009
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If you painted the letters in GO that would cover the flaws up that you have

Of course you still got the clear to deal with but just a idea
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  #99  
Old 06-06-2009
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Not the worst but you can find a different way you make it look better.
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  #100  
Old 06-06-2009
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Shane, you need to use the green masking tape. Go to an auto body place or something and they should have a decent selection of it.
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