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  #26  
Old 02-15-2014
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That's a good idea. Learn something new everyday! The harness is well priced and If i'm not mistaken circuit breakers are about $3-5 each..i should browse electrical departments while at work more often lol. I think I'll have to consider what your doing when i do fog lights.
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2014
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bussman are the only circuit breakers that i use

Bussmann Hi-Amp Circuit Breaker - 50 Amps : Amazon.com : Automotive Bussmann Hi-Amp Circuit Breaker - 50 Amps : Amazon.com : Automotive

they not cheap by any standards , but they are top quality and they last + they are manually resetable
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  #28  
Old 02-16-2014
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That's not a bad price if it means keeping hundreds of dollars of electronics safe. Definitely added to the book of knowledge.

Heres a question for you since you know a lot about wiring. I want to add Angel Eyes to each Headlight, just around the HID bulb not the parking light. How exactly would I go about that? I found these Morimoto XB LED Angel Eyes on TRS that are reasonably priced for the exceptional quality. for $45 it doesn't seem bad, but how are they wired into the Motocontrol wireharness? They have the option for Sidemarker/parking light harness, but does that just plug into the stock harness and splits it so it can go to the Parking light bulb and Morimoto Angel Eyes? Also not sure if its a pair for one headlight or if its two separate ones; one for each headlight.
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  #29  
Old 02-16-2014
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personally i would not bother with them

i have read horror stories about premature failures of those halo`s

they are more of a bling factor than anything else , people usually wire them into the clearance lights , but that is asking for trouble since wiring harnesses are 1 complete unit

with todays advanced lighting on automobiles , smaller wiring to headlights / clearance lights are a problem

the wiring for each corner clearance light is only rated for that bulb`s specific amperage load , any more and you risk burning up that area of wiring . and it is not a simple fix
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  #30  
Old 02-16-2014
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i read that morimoto info , not a good idea

your 2004 ranger does not have the computer controlled alternator , standard alternators put out voltage spikes now and again , the built in voltage regulator will burn out quickly requiring replacement of that harness every so often

you see incandesant bulbs can handle voltage spikes , but most LED lights cannot
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  #31  
Old 02-17-2014
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Ah Geeze. Didnt know the Halo's would be that problematic! This is why i shy away from electrical. Glad I asked you, last thing i want is to have electrical gremlins or busted engine components. I'll stay away from them, I'll stick with the HIDS for now lol. Thanks Cheese.

My Bi-Xenon adapter harness shipped today...maybe by the end of the week I can at least bench test everything to see if i have to return stuff. Side note...picked up my seats from the upholstery shop, looks awesome! Now I have to take the tracks off to paint them, looks stupid if i don't. I believe its four bolts on the bottom and wa-la! its off, ill see though.
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  #32  
Old 02-22-2014
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Hey Cheese_Man,

I started the HID Retrofit testing phase tonight. I set up a bench near the truck. Plugged each projector into the Motocontrol harness with the new hand-dandy adapters...they where right by the way. screwed the negative ground rings into a fender body panel near the battery (do they have to be on separate ones, i doubt it) and tried the Bi-xenon solenoids. When i turn on the DRL's the solenoids activate and go to the High Beam position, and they also work immediately when i flip the high beams on. I know its doing it backwards, when i turn the DRL's on it shouldn't flilp the Bi-xenon solenoids to the down position. The important thing at the time is they function. If you know why they do that that'd be great, save me some research time. I think i read that somewhere at one point.

What I'm really wondering though is two other things; Firstly when i had the positive cable attached to the battery and went to start the truck you heard a click or pop, then zip...the PATS theft light on the cluster slowly stayed dimmly lit. couldn't start it after that, unless i unplugged the battery and removed the Motocontrol positive cable from the battery. Nothing broke, so I'm not to worried. Don't know why it did that though. Any thoughts?

Secondly I plugged one ballast into the Motocontrol harness and the HID bulb into the projector housing (incorrectly for installation but enough to hold it for testing purposes) and the Ballast into the bulb (Think it was in there correctly). Tried to turn on the lights and nothing. My passenger headlight that I didn't remove turns on (maybe I can't have it plugged in, overload circuit?), DRLs turn on, Bi-Xenon functions (opposite but work), but the HID doesn't. Even tried having the truck running, nothing. At this time I did NOT have the positive cable attached to the battery, but instead tried holding it onto the battery and still nothing.

I'm guessing I need the positive cable attached to the battery. Afraid to get another pop and scare the hell out of me scenario though. Do i need the truck running to charge the ballast or anything of that sorts? If I'm lucky i can start cutting the housings and mounting the projectors tomorrow, but I'd rather have it all running before I do that. Going to do some research tonight, your help would be much appreciated.

Got my newly upholstered seats in today, would post pictures but i don't have a photobucket or anything.
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2014
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the harness clearly labels which connector goes to what
the 9006 connector labelled BALLAST plugs into the ballast , the 9006 connector to small 2 pin adapter plugs into the BI-ZENON small 2 pin connector leading from the projector

your pats activated because both the positive and negative battery connectors MUST be connected to the battery itself !!!! and not the fender

did you remember to switch around the 2 pins on the connector to the harness moto control ( it is wired up for the 9004 bulbs , the negative and low beam wires must be reversed for proper moto control operation
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  #34  
Old 02-22-2014
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So the Solenoid is acting in reverse because it's wired for 9004 and not 9007? okay now that you said that i remember reading that somewhere. So from the projector I can pull out the two wires from the 2-pin connector, switch them and plug the adapter into that? Seems easy enough.

Aye, The harness is stupid-proof. Easy enough to read which one goes into what. OHHH, the Negative Motocontrol terminals must be on the negative battery and not just grounded. I looked at the lengths of the wires and assumed that they just went to any ground source because it really doesn't look like it will reach from the passenger to the driver side battery location. I'd run out to the garage to try but the wife just got home and will murder me.
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  #35  
Old 02-22-2014
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I watched a TRS video about the Motocontrol harness and it shows them putting the negative ground onto a body panel, not the battery. But that is for a different model type. Hmm, Can't wait to try it out haha.
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  #36  
Old 02-22-2014
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I'd run out to the garage to try but the wife just got home and will murder me. LOL!

if you bought 2 harnesses , then you will have to cut the battery eyelets off and wrap / solder / heat shrink / longer wire to reach the battery from the passenger side , then crimp / solder / heat shrink / 2 new eyelets on

i will have to do the same when my other harness arrives

you will need a jewelers screw driver set to switch the pins as they are very small
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  #37  
Old 02-22-2014
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If i want some, i better stay inside LOL

Now I'm wondering if it will even reach at all. So your saying if it won't reach I have to set it all up, cut the eyelet that doesn't reach off, attach new wire to it, run it to the battery with the new eyelet and should be good?
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  #38  
Old 02-22-2014
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both the positive and negative wires yes!
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  #39  
Old 02-22-2014
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Alright, thanks. I'll rig it up in the morning. Then try to figure out if ill need another harness, at least i'll be able to start cutting the housings.
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  #40  
Old 02-23-2014
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you can use just the 1 moto control harness for both projectors for now mounted on the drivers side

then when get the other harness for the passenger side , just cut / strip / wrap / solder / heatshrink on longer wires to reach the battery on the driver`s side , then solder on new eyelets
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  #41  
Old 02-23-2014
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Managed to mount both ballasts and run the Motocontrol harness from one end to another. It's plenty big enough, didn't look like it was until i put it in the truck. Was a pain to fish through the tight spaces, glad i don't have the 3.0 in this case lol. Cut up one housing and put the projector in it. Not sure how far in it should go, it clears the lens by about 1.5cm or so. Tested it to make sure it wouldn't melt the lens. The lens didn't get hot, but don't put your hand in front of it! haha. Ran out of time for the day, hopefully i can finish it up within a week or two. I'll use my remaining time today to add to the guide.

Thanks Cheese.
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  #42  
Old 02-27-2014
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I have the projectors in the housing with JB weld drying in the meantime I have to do more research. I reversed the wires on the bi-xenon adapter for both and they still activate when i turn the lights on. plus the passenger side HID didn't turn on once unless I turned the lights off and back on.
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  #43  
Old 02-27-2014
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Ah **** don't I have to reverse the wires on the blue connector (guessing that is the 9004 connector) and not the actual solenoid?
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  #44  
Old 02-27-2014
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yes the blue connector is the 9004 reverse the low beam and ground wire
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  #45  
Old 03-06-2014
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I seem to have run into a snag. I took the truck out last night for a drive with the hide, had to adjust. But was to cold at 1am. Anyways this morning I was out and had lights, parked to adjust them to aim up once I got home. Now 12 hours later I go to leave and I have no lights from the hids. Drl come on. I checked all connections and I have to locate what fuse to.check and change for tomorrow anything else I should look at?
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  #46  
Old 03-07-2014
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check your connectors at the battery , make that the 9006 connectors that plug into the ballasts are firmly seated , the rubber gasket must be fully compressed ,
use a voltage tester on 1 of the 9006 harness to ballast connectors to ensure that the ballasts are receiving power

if not , check the factory headlight bulb connector for any bent pins ( the connector that plugs into the harness trigger blue connector ( sometimes those little pins are bent if you do not insert the connector carefully )

make sure all ground connectors are securely fastened

if the ballasts are NOT the morimoto brand , and they are the chinese brand , chinese ballasts do not like cold temps , also make sure that the morimoto harness control box is placed away from any heat source
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  #47  
Old 03-07-2014
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Triple checked the negative to body and both connections to the battery. Both solid and making contact with bolt, not just head. I searched for a bad fuse, nothing bad. Then i hooked up my stock headlights and fired right up- should have done that to begin with. So it's not the truck. I used my multimeter on the Motocontrol harness next. it kept fluctuating from 1600-1800, I guess that's the capacitors and relays built into it? I was also able to activate the Bi-xenon solenoids without an issue.

I then pulled the connection out of the ballast to the harness leaving the D2S plugged into the bulb and read 1600 and it dropped to 1, for both of the ballasts. Tomorrow I can try unplugging the D2S plug and having everything connected while I use the multimeter on the D2S plug to see if it receives power. I have the Morimoto Ballasts/bulbs. They are located to each side of the radiator, so not near direct heat. The motocontrol box is located behind the grill in front of the radiator so its constantly getting fresh air. I even reseated the connection to the bulbs.

I'm leaning towards the Ballasts being bad. But I've turned them on around six times, what are the chances they both die simultaneously? They did flicker a tad and make some buzzing noises for a few moments. Last night I turned the truck on and then turned the lights on while I was inserting a new CD so I wasn't paying attention to the lights. I don't recall seeing them shine then go off or hear anything.
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  #48  
Old 03-07-2014
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unplug both ballast connections

start engine ( let it run )

turn on main lights - leave on for several minutes

then check both ballast connectors for VOLTAGE - should be a minimum of 12.4 volts

NO VOLTAGE - then the morimoto HID control box has failed

remember when i said to order a spare control HID harness ( this is the reason why )
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  #49  
Old 03-07-2014
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re-mount the control box AWAY from the radiator
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  #50  
Old 03-07-2014
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Okay, unplug ballasts and let truck run. If the voltage reads right I guess I have to get new ballasts? If I have to order from them ill pick up a spare harness haha. No.clue what else it could be otherwise. Ill test this tomorrow after work, need sleep.or ill kill someone at work. Thanks cheese, let you know how it turns out.
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