replacing bedside
#1
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: WI
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replacing bedside
well i found a different truck but the guy got backed into not real bad put a massive dent in the rear box by the tail light. i don't wanna bondo the whole damn thing, so i am seeing how hard it is to replace the ped panel...i can get another panel for 100 bucks and would rather go that route then buying a used bed for just 1 side. from what i read and searched you just need to get a spot weld cutter and go to town...and then bolt on the new one. is that right? time is not the issue, i don't wanna start something and not finish it either.
so any advice or just cut all the weld outs and it pops right off and install the new one bolt it on, line it up and your ready to shoot paint?
also the flares on the bed have holes in the bed like the f150's? or do they just bolt on using the wheel arch lip?
so any advice or just cut all the weld outs and it pops right off and install the new one bolt it on, line it up and your ready to shoot paint?
also the flares on the bed have holes in the bed like the f150's? or do they just bolt on using the wheel arch lip?
#2
im assuming its the stylside (steel) and not the flareside (fiberglass). its quite a chore rmoving and replacing a bedside, you have to drill out about 100 or more spot welds and than weld the new panel on. if you can use a drill and a welder, you can replace a bedside, it just takes a bit of know-how. BTW, didnt know you had a ranger?
and yes, they have the holes in the bedside for the flares
and yes, they have the holes in the bedside for the flares
#3
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#5
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#7
no they dont just bolt on unfortunately, unless its a stepside. and its kinda funny youre selling your F-150 and getting a ranger, most guys on here are doing the opposite ha ha
#8
I know it might not matter anymore, but still its not HARD to replace a bedside, but it is time consuming, and itll require a welder and a little talent.
Drill out the couple million spot welds without damaging the underlying flange too bad
take the bedside off.
clean the flanges and use a roloc or something to make sure its smooth and flat
put new bedside on. If its used, its gonna be more work to make sure it fits and that the flanges arent beat to death when they took it off to start with. Unless you have to trim it, then well, be careful
Use sheetmetal screws to hold it in place while you redo all the million spot welds.
grind welds smooth if you have to
run seam sealer over all of the flanges
seal and paint.
Total time.... ohhh a good days work to get it on and another day to get it painted. Remember, youll have to at least set the bed back to paint the front if it, at least the tailight pocket and possibly under the rail too if you arent careful with the welding and grinding.
Or just put on a new bed in about an hour.
Drill out the couple million spot welds without damaging the underlying flange too bad
take the bedside off.
clean the flanges and use a roloc or something to make sure its smooth and flat
put new bedside on. If its used, its gonna be more work to make sure it fits and that the flanges arent beat to death when they took it off to start with. Unless you have to trim it, then well, be careful
Use sheetmetal screws to hold it in place while you redo all the million spot welds.
grind welds smooth if you have to
run seam sealer over all of the flanges
seal and paint.
Total time.... ohhh a good days work to get it on and another day to get it painted. Remember, youll have to at least set the bed back to paint the front if it, at least the tailight pocket and possibly under the rail too if you arent careful with the welding and grinding.
Or just put on a new bed in about an hour.
#9
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i don't even put 200 miles on my truck a month anymore, no point in having it. i pissed away over 40grand on that damn truck, just bored with it, ya know, 510 a month or zero, gonna go with zero, lol. how's your F150 rebuild coming?
Last edited by ATOM; 08-07-2009 at 11:22 PM.
#11
hmm... dont wanna be a thread ***** but does it happen to look like this??
fordandchevy014.jpg picture by savage25_2009 - Photobucket
this is what the side of my truck looked like after sliding into a pole last winter, its less crinkled now gonna take some recent pics of it soon.. if its just a section like what mine is then you can take an angle grinder or something with a cut off disk and cut the section out and weld in a new piece, i thought about doing it to mine, but i think i might just hammer and dolly what i can out of whats left, then fill it and then repaint.
fordandchevy014.jpg picture by savage25_2009 - Photobucket
this is what the side of my truck looked like after sliding into a pole last winter, its less crinkled now gonna take some recent pics of it soon.. if its just a section like what mine is then you can take an angle grinder or something with a cut off disk and cut the section out and weld in a new piece, i thought about doing it to mine, but i think i might just hammer and dolly what i can out of whats left, then fill it and then repaint.
#14
just uploading some pics more pics of my truck on photobucket. this is what the big dent looks like now.
passenger rear picture by savage25_2009 - Photobucket
FordRanger008.jpg picture by savage25_2009 - Photobucket
passenger rear picture by savage25_2009 - Photobucket
FordRanger008.jpg picture by savage25_2009 - Photobucket
#15
That is not a dent. Its cottage cheese in sheet metal.
You dont need to remove the enitre side. You can buy a side and use it as a patch panel. Cut out the bad on the truck then use it as a template then cut the panel to fit.
You will need to weld the sheet metal along the cut which will be a PITA. Followed by sanding the metal smooth then use body filler to make it straight again.
Again easier to find a JY bed.
You dont need to remove the enitre side. You can buy a side and use it as a patch panel. Cut out the bad on the truck then use it as a template then cut the panel to fit.
You will need to weld the sheet metal along the cut which will be a PITA. Followed by sanding the metal smooth then use body filler to make it straight again.
Again easier to find a JY bed.
#16
well i found a different truck but the guy got backed into not real bad put a massive dent in the rear box by the tail light. i don't wanna bondo the whole damn thing, so i am seeing how hard it is to replace the ped panel...i can get another panel for 100 bucks and would rather go that route then buying a used bed for just 1 side. from what i read and searched you just need to get a spot weld cutter and go to town...and then bolt on the new one. is that right? time is not the issue, i don't wanna start something and not finish it either.
so any advice or just cut all the weld outs and it pops right off and install the new one bolt it on, line it up and your ready to shoot paint?
also the flares on the bed have holes in the bed like the f150's? or do they just bolt on using the wheel arch lip?
so any advice or just cut all the weld outs and it pops right off and install the new one bolt it on, line it up and your ready to shoot paint?
also the flares on the bed have holes in the bed like the f150's? or do they just bolt on using the wheel arch lip?
got any pics of the dent??
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