Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource - General Ford Ranger Discussion

2010 ford ranger xlt 2.3 2wd parking brake cables

tachdriver — Wed, 20 May 2026 20:17:00 GMT

Found out today that both of my rear parking brake cables are rusted solid ! In about the area of the differential. No saving them. So I go to buy new ones, and cannot find any direct fit, What has everyone done here to restore their rear parking brakes ?later

Unwanted project

Bbwolf — Mon, 18 May 2026 19:57:20 GMT

I have a 96 ford ranger stx ext cab 4.0 auto 4x4, I thought I wanted a project, motor runs transmission bad, paid 2500 for it. I'd like to sell or trade,

HELP** Bestop 76320-35 Install

Ranger_Rich2010 — Sat, 16 May 2026 17:52:47 GMT

Does anyone have any advise for installing this Bestop Supertop 76320-35? I've been at it for two days now and end up in the same spot, frustrated. The middle support make the top sit too high and does not allow me to attached the side panels and prevents the the front of the shade to attach to the front truck bed rail. I need and act from the man upstairs!

Power steering Question

Fleiger — Thu, 14 May 2026 18:06:01 GMT

Hello friends, I�m new to the forum and unfortunately not very mechanically inclined so my question probably seems silly to you guys but here goes. I have a 1994 Ranger XLT 2.3 four cylinder and I�ll be darned if I can find the power steering reservoir to check the fluid level. I swear I have searched under that hood high and low and I just don�t see one. I guess it has power steering. Hard to believe an XLT doesn�t have power steering, even an old �94 like mine. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

1921 Vintage Model T with 2009 Ranger 2.3 and auto

DESERTYFZ — Tue, 12 May 2026 04:46:54 GMT

I inherited a Vintage Model T from my Grandmother. Technically it's still my Mom's, but she hates it because it's the stock drivetrain that is next to impossible to drive. Turns out, I hate it too. 4 pedals on the floor, hand throttle and ignition advance on the column, 2 speed rear end, a nightmare to drive. Look for a youtube video of someone driving a vintage Model T to see what I mean. Zerk fittings and oil cups everywhere with no seals so oil and grease is oozing out of everything, and a flathead 4 that I was warned would break the crank if I revved it past 3000rpm. It had been converted to a Holley 1 barrel carb, VW distributor, and Nissan alternator over the years, so it wasn't 100% original. I decided if someone "hot-rodded" it in the past, I can hot rod it a little more while keeping it original looking inside and out.

I found a wrecked 2009 Ranger with a 2.3l DOHC motor and a 5speed Automatic and I went to work.

I didn't even know if it would work, but I know I had to try something. I was willing to build an Intake or a header to make it fit under the little hood, but once I tilted the motor about 10degrees it fit perfect. I found a Radiator that would work, modified the front crossmember to fit it, built motor mounts and a trans mount and we were off to the races.

My buddy took the Ranger rear end home with the stock rear end and did a ton of machining to make the stock wood wheels work with the Ranger 7.5 and drum brakes. These cars only have rear brakes, so getting the stock hand brake working with the Ebrake and getting a pedal assembly with a clutch master cylinder working was really important. I made a pedal assembly with the 3 teardrop pedals that all work as a brake pedal now.

Every part of this build was two steps forward, one step back. But the electrical was the real challenge. That's where this Forum entered the chat. I had no idea what PATS was. I had no idea what mistake I made by using a 2009 Ranger. After countless hours on this forum, I understood what I needed and got it done.

6 weeks after I pulled the motor from the Ranger, I took the Model T to Arizona to take my Dad on the 100th annual Route 66 Fun Run

Mazda B4000 code PO715 please help

Pa78 — Sat, 09 May 2026 18:09:12 GMT

hello all this is my second attempt at posting on here. I have a 2001 Mazda B 4000 SE 4 x 4 I know it�s not a ranger. But every part I�ve had to buy for it has been for a Ford Ranger. I bought it quite a few years ago for a range truck and it�s been good anyhow it putting out a code PO715. turbine input shaft speed sensor I�ve replaced that twice. I�ve also replaced the turbine output sensor the brain for the truck the side shifter on the transmission the transmission fluid the filters of traced all the wiring thinking maybe a mouse could�ve ate through it I can�t find anything like that. I can�t get a power reading at the sensor, but I was doing it by myself. I don�t wanna throw any more money at it. I�m just wondering anybody had this problem and if you have, could you give me a clue thank you.

2010 ford ranger xlt single cab second key

tachdriver — Thu, 07 May 2026 00:17:19 GMT

Hello everyone, I have a question. Maybe somebody here can help me thank you if you can. I wanna make a second key for my 2010 Ford Ranger I have the original working key. Can I go ahead and buy a key that�s programmable off of eBay have it cut to fit my ignition and then go through this procedure? I�ve included here to make a second key successfully. I would hate to go to the stealer and pay them $200 to make me a key.1. Insert an existing key into the ignition cylinder.

2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.

3. Remove the existing key and, within 15 seconds, insert the new key and turn it to ON (RUN).

4. The security light will light up for two seconds to indicate success in programming the key into the vehicle.

5. Don't attempt to start the vehicle with any key for at least 1 minute.

Thank you

Stripped caliper slider pin

Heywood — Sun, 03 May 2026 01:46:14 GMT

Hey guys 05 ford ranger , just did the front brakes , rotors , pads , calipers . Everything went well until I stripped 1 of the slider pins , I over torqued it. Now I can�t get it out , it�s a torx 45 , I only have a 3/8� drive torx 45 . I tried but failed , stripped and over torqued . Any ideas ? Maybe step up to 1/2� drive ? I hate these slider pins , I�m use to the hex ones that are on the outside and easy to get a with a socket or wrench. These ones are inside and torx is annoying. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks

Auto haulers

partwerks — Sat, 02 May 2026 22:34:49 GMT

I bought a Ranger out of state, and so in a perfect world I would have it shipped, if I can find a reputable hauler, that would be close to what it would cost to fly out, gas, one hotel stay, and drive it back. Guessing in the $900.00 range?

Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions?

3rd gen Ranger XLT 4x4 stickers where were they on the body originally?

ranger_05_4x4 — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 16:23:20 GMT

This new to me Supercab Ranger has a nice 4x4 sticker on the tailgate. Did the stickers also come on the side of the XLT or were they just on the tailgate?

Thanks!

05 Ranger with Supercab to seat 5?

ranger_05_4x4 — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 16:21:02 GMT

I read that you can seat 5 in the front with a 60/40 bench but I doubt it. Does that configuration have the seatbelts intact for 3 adults to sit in front or is this a myth?

Has anyone added benches or buckets to the rear to replace those jump seats on a supercab or is that situation one that cannot be improved upon at all?

Thanks!

Power Loss

jgimar — Fri, 24 Apr 2026 16:06:52 GMT

I have a 2002 Ford ranger and for the most part it's run pretty good up to now. About the only episode I have had with it is a dirty fuel filter which has been changed within the last year. Lately, I have been experiencing a loss of power, almost like it's run out of fuel. It seems to happen most when the vehicle is at low rpm and or "idling" along at low speed. Seems like it's feeding gas but then tends to drop off and "stall' out. I can stop and it will restart, or I can throw it to neutral at times and pump the peddle and it will "fire" back up. When stopped in traffic, it will idle but when traffic starts to move and I accelerate to go, its response is sluggish and acts like it wants to stall out. Just started doing this, not all the time, mainly after it's warmed up really good. Won't throw any codes.
Fuel pump problems, maybe? Any help appreciated!

2004 Camry wheel/brakes rattling/pulsating when it comes to a stop.

rogerranger2122 — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 17:49:19 GMT

hopefully this is ok to post since I'm a member for my Ford ranger but
2004 camry w 120k miles.

This has been happening for a couple years. At first it rarely happened and was much less alarming and basically only happened when coming to a stop while turning left (pulling into the driveway was when it usually happened, but I test rode it for a while turning and trying to find the sweet spot to make it happen but it happened so rarely - I wanted the mechanic drive it and show how to make it happen but it was so rare at first. It's my dad's car, he though it was the front axle gear that goes into the transmission. I brought it to the mechanic was supposed to open up that axle and check but he just said 'the axle looks brand new I don't think it's that'.

Fast forward to now it happens every time right before coming to a stop, a rattling jittering almost grinding sound, break pedal vibrates, seems to be the problem is the front driver side wheel.
Brake fluid level is good, nothing leaking, I changed the rotors and pads a couple years ago they should be fine the car isn't used much, I also inspected them about a year ago before I brought it to the mechanic and they were fine.

I'm thinking it has something to do with the ABS. The ABS light came on but my dad said it does that when it hasn't been driven for a while but IDK what he means by that and I'm guessing the ABS module is faulty by the way it pulsates, it seems to vibrate in a perfect pulse as if it's the ABS. It's strange that it only happens right when about to stopm I don't know why ABS would kick in only then, I can be driving fast and hit the brakes and it doesn't have a problem. I could if suggested drive it fast and stomp on the brakes to make the ABS kick in and see what happens but rather not.

Recently I discovered opposite of what I was hoping: I idled up a hill so the car wouldn't just idle along and never stop. I was hoping nothing would happen and therefore it have something to do with the brakes/ABS but when idling uphill until the car is about to stop without hitting the brakes, I can feel a very slight pulsating, if I then hit the brakes it does the alarming rattling pulse. When idling up the hill until it's about to stop, without hitting the brakes, I hear a slight electronic beep as if it's the ABS module or something electronic, it's not like a diagnostic beep it just seems for whatever reason the part has a beep sound to it. Since it only happens right at low rpm (but not when taking off from a stop) I'm guessing maybe it also has something to do with the Idle air control electronics or something is so faulty that it's kicking in the ABS only when coming to a stop. Also when pulling away from a stop with the AC on (AC works good) it made a slightly alarming humm and dragging feeling but the AC hadn't been ran in a year and it seems to have gone away.