Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource - Drivetrain Tech

2015 Hirider

9289 — Sat, 16 May 2026 04:47:25 GMT

In the process of replacing the anti vibration unit where the front of the tailshaft bolts to the gearbox.The bolts were very hard to undo,so guessing some serious torque needed to tighten them.Is there any body here who may know the reading please?

Valve Body Options (5r55e)

steppinthrax — Mon, 11 May 2026 13:43:35 GMT

I have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4WD with about 119K miles. I am fairly certain it has the 5R55E transmission, although I have not been able to locate a tag or nameplate to confirm this. I purchased the truck used and it was not well maintained, so I have been working through it step by step.

Here is what I have done so far to the transmission:

I have changed the transmission fluid several times using Mercon V. The original fluid was brown. I replaced the filter once. The pan was missing a magnet, so I added new magnets from Amazon and installed them in the pan. I also switched to a transmission pan with a drain plug to make servicing easier. After several fluid changes, the fluid is now a solid red.
I was getting a P0756 code (Shift Solenoid B stuck “off”). After researching, I replaced all six solenoids (TCC, EPC, and shift solenoids) with parts from O’Reilly Auto Parts. Since then, and after over 100 miles of driving, the code has not returned.
I adjusted the clutch bands. I loosened the lock nuts, backed out the adjusters, and used a torque wrench with a 5/16 inch square drive. I torqued each band to 120 in-lbs, then backed off the front band two full turns and the rear band (furthest from the converter) 2.5 turns.

Despite this, I am still having issues. When the transmission is cold, reverse engagement is harsh and the 1–2 and 2–1 shifts are also harsh. After a few miles of driving, the forward shifts smooth out as the transmission warms up. However, once warm, I start to get a delay when shifting into reverse of about one second before it engages. Shifting into Drive has no delay or harsh engagement even when cold.

At this point, my suspicion is pointing toward the valve body, possibly a separator plate gasket issue or worn or scored valve body bores. I have been looking at shift kits from TransGo, SHIFT Technologies, SONNAX Zip Kit, but I am not sure which one to choose or whether they will actually address my issue. My understanding is that these kits replace springs and valves to prevent sticking and internal leakage. I have also read that plastic check ***** can shrink and cause problems over time. I was also told the separator plate gasket may be blown out or leaking and that the original bonded Ford plate is no longer available.

I have also seen rebuilt valve bodies for sale on eBay that claim to be pressure tested, upgraded with new solenoids, and covered by warranty, but I am not sure if they are truly rebuilt or just refreshed with a shift kit and solenoids.

Looking for advice on the best direction to take from here.

Transmission identification

Thord — Sat, 09 May 2026 00:45:24 GMT

Hello ranger enthusiasts , i�m rather new to this platform , long story short i needed a rwd transmission for a project car , my requirement where mostly bellhousing size and the distance from the bellhousing to the shifter location , the 2009 2.3l 2wd manual transmission fitted my needs perfectly , but now i realised the starter motor is mounted ( on the side ) on the engine / transmission rather than ( thru ) the transmission like most rwd i�ve seen , the internet isn�t extremely specific about wich year that transition happened , i would like to know if the bellhousing bolt pattern is identical on both transmission , wich is really doesn�t seem like from picture on google , and as a last request , if someone has drawing of the transmission bellhousing bolt pattern ( the one with the side mounted starter ) with the crankshaft referenced as it�s center , that would be greatly appreciated , if any interest arises , i�ll post picture on the swap 🤭 thank a lot , Jordan

Extremly bad picture of what i call the side mounted starter transmission , feel free to ask for an other picture

rear axle movement

Hellcat — Thu, 07 May 2026 22:51:45 GMT

Howdy y'all! I've got a question about a "loose" driver's side, rear axle. It's moving about just under a quarter of an inch in and out. For context this ranger has 244,000 miles on it. Is this anything to be concerned about? If so, then do I need to replace a "c" clamp in the diff or replace the wheel bearing?

Perplexed about my ABS

turnwrench03 — Mon, 04 May 2026 18:28:23 GMT

I have a 2000 Ranger XL 2.5 LITER with rear ABS
REAR wheel drive. My ABS light came on. I have a Thinkscan662 Bi- directional scanner ( mid- market)
says ( not found) , so I checked brakes, they are good, changed rear diff sensor, same issue...brake fluid clean and level fine, went behind radio check connection on black box next to glove compartment...hurray! Light went out...but just for 5 mins...false alarm....need some help of other places to try...thanks in advance

Trouble finding replacement parts for the rear differential in my b3000

CarterU — Wed, 29 Apr 2026 21:18:51 GMT

Hello, my name is Carter and I am having a lot of trouble finding replacement parts for my 1998 Mazda B3000. I have taken apart my rear differential because the spider gears in it are worn out bad. For reference my truck has about 240k miles on it. I am having trouble finding replacement gears. I cannot find anywhere online where 28 spline gears, for a 7.5� differential, with traction-lock, are being sold. I have included a picture of the dog tag in below. Does anyone know where I can find these? And for reference I purchased the truck about a year and a half ago and do not know if the rear end has been changed out at all.

Dog tag from my rear differential. The missing letter in the bottom left is a 3, forming the code 3L73 which means a 3.73 gear ratio with a limited slip differential.

Misfire in cylinder 4

Wil.mueller — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 14:42:40 GMT

Misfire in cylinder 4. I changed the spark plug and wire but it still misfires a bit at idle. Enough to shake the cab a decent bit. The check engine comes off and on. Wondering if this is enough of a difference in compression to cause the misfire? Or do you guys think it�s more likely the fuel injector or distributor cap?